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Help on infinity stops on a 6X9 Pacemaker Speed

 
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Skorzen



Joined: 18 Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Location: MA/PA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 2:00 pm    Post subject: Help on infinity stops on a 6X9 Pacemaker Speed Reply with quote

Ok so I recently got a 6X9 Pacemaker Speed and am having issues setting the infinity stops. The camera I got came with a roll film back but no focusing panel. I ran a roll through it when I first got it and found that the rangefinder way off. I rigged up a piece of gg where the film plane should be and went about getting everything back into alignment. Following the instructions for the Kalart rangefinder on this site I first tried to set the infinity stops so that infinity is in focus with the bed most of the way back (maybe 1/16 from all the way back, this seems to be as far as it will go reliably). However with the lens which came with the camera (103mm trioptar) the infinity stops are so close to the hinge in the bed that they interfere with the camera folding.

I am about out of ideas as to how to fix this, I can't see what I am doing wrong. My only thought is that maybe the trioptar was meant for a century (it's on a black lensboard) and not the speed. However most lenses of the 100-105mm size are going to sit in about the same place so...

Any ideas that people might have with getting this up and going would be great. I have a few pictures of the camera and the issue here: http://www.pbase.com/wfournier/mini_speed My setup to get the ground glass in teh focal plane is a little funky but I believe it to be accurate enough that it can't be blamed for this issue (I used a 2X3 film holder to set the depth and checked it on the roll back).


Last edited by Skorzen on Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:10 pm; edited 1 time in total
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 103mm Trioptar should work fine on a SPeed and they are goodlenses. Icanset one up at infinity on oneof my Speeds later and see where locates on the rails, but I can tellyou that the 101 Optar and Ektars, slightly shorter, were standards on the PAcemaker and Mini Speeds.
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Dan Fromm



Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2147
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skorzen, it may be easier to start by ignoring the lens and bed stops and what's shown on the GG. First rack the bed out (or in) until the RF indicates it is at infinity. Then slide the front standard, without moving the rails, until the GG shows the lens is at infinity. Then set the stops, taking care not to introduce unintended swing.

Also, a small matter of terminology. You have a 2x3 Pacemaker Speed Graphic. Graflex called the earlier (1937, I think, to 1946) 2x3 Speed with wooden boards 2x3 Speed the Miniature Speed Graphic, whence the nickname Mini. I bring this up not because I'm compulsive but because by using the word "Mini" as loosely as you do you, um, devalue it and reduce its specificity. I know that sloppy, sometimes deliberately confusing, sellers on, e.g., eBay apply the word Mini to all 2x3 Graphics, but that's no excuse for our going along with them.
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Skorzen



Joined: 18 Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Location: MA/PA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I realized after the fact that this is not the "mini" speed but the 2x3 Pacemaker. Is the official designation "2X3"? I called it 6X9 as I think that is closer to the actual format without writing out the whole 2 1/4 X 3 1/4 which just seems overly complex (or I'm lazy).

I'll give that a try with setting the rangefinder for infinity, but if I remember right I did that but the rangefinder then wasn't accurate at close distances. This leads me to believe either the lens was changed or the range finder has gotten out of adjustment.

troublemaker, if you get an chance to do that I would be very interested to hear how the 103mm trioptar works on your speed (do you have a pacemaker speed?).
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C. Henry



Joined: 13 Dec 2005
Posts: 360
Location: North East Georgia, USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For what it is worth the 101mm Ektar on my 2x3 Pacemaker Speed appear to be further from the hinges on the yoke than your lens. With all the variations that came from Graflex I would be reluctant to state absolutely that your lens was not original but I believe that the probability is high that it is not the original lens.
You might try to buy (or borrow) a Graflok focusing panel before making any further attempts to adjust your infinity stops or the rangefinder on your camera.
Perhaps someone who lives within about an hour's drive of you will meet with you to assist with solving your problem.

C. Henry
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I checked the Trioptar on the Pacemaker Speed 23.
Yes sure as heck the 103 lives farther back than the 101 EKtar and Optar. The 101's just barely make the back screw while the 103 Trioptar is slightly farther back and wont do. It would work if only the front set screws were used but the back extension for the rear set screws still might interfere with folding the rails up when closing the camera. I can think of three solutions of which I only like one. You could place the stops on the rear rails, which is a pain but some of us do it for wide angle lenses. Secondly, grind the rear part of theinfinity stops off, but make sure first this is enough clearance. I don't care much for modifying parts. Thirdly, and this is my choice, just get another lens. I don't know what lens length you like, but I tend to put 127 or 135 lenses on the 2x3 Speeds and use them as my normal. I believe 110mm is considered normal for 2x3.
These I know will work, 101 Ektar, 105 Ektar, 101 Optar. But I never liked the way the front standard lives on the hinge point with these lenses, and if the back rails are really loose or worn and alligment withthe front rails is poor, the front standard will either move, or lock down out of column with the film plane. But this is just my personal preference and I have the lenses and cameras to switch things around to my liking. So I put the short standards on Crown Graphics or Century bodies and what I call a long normal on the Speeds.
I agree with someone above recomending getting yourself a focussing panel. You'll want one eventually anyways for fine focussing and using the camera on a support.
Which makes me wonder which back you have. If you have the Graflok back easy enough to add the panel. If you have what is a spring back and some kind of clips, Graflex or custom to hold your film holder you'll need that type of panel which would work fine for setting the RF and then swithing back to the roll holder or sheet film etc...
I tried using a home made light weight focussing panel that placed the GG right on the filmplane of a holder but I can tell you it doesn't jive with a regular focussing panel, and is going to result in my doing a check using both and shooting my backpacking lenses and holders wide open to see which is better. I know I have been getting a little film curl even with pin roller backs.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Top RF Service manual posted as www.southbristolviews.com graflex manuals link on left will cover your camera as far as bed/infinity stop setup is concerned.
I see two possibalities from your photos:
1. You are placing the infinity stops behind the front standard when they should be in front of the front standard except when they interfere with the yoke hinge then they go to the other side of the standard or the inner rail section.
2. The Kalart actuator is mispositioned on the bed. Run the rails (yoke) fully in then foward .040 (1/8 ) inch and lock. With the front standard and bellows positioned out of the way, adjust the RF actuactor by loosening its screws and sliding it along the rails until it enguages the RF Actuator Arm and set RF to show infinity. Next position the front standard with lens at infinity on the ground glass when locked and square to the rails then move the stops up to the front standard front edge or rear whichever is farthest from the yoke link.
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Skorzen



Joined: 18 Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Location: MA/PA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Troublemaker,

Thanks for the info, that makes me feel better, I guess I am not going crazy. I would like to pickup an Ektar but the prices they seem to be commanding on ebay are a little more than I can pay, it actually seems like the cheapest way to get one might be to buy a camera with one and resell the camera. Anyone got one they wanna sell cheap? Need of a CLA is not a problem for me.

I may give putting the stops behind the front standard and see where that gets me. I would like to find a focusing panel (it is a graflok back) but most of them I have seen have sold for a little more than I would like to spend right now.
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skorzen,
Check your PM's I am sending you some ideas regarding your set up...
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 1 infinity stop cut just past the upright hinge point or just in front of the screw hole, precision cut, factory??? I forgot about that option. I will trade it for a complete one. ( it's for the left side, from shooting position)
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Skorzen



Joined: 18 Mar 2008
Posts: 5
Location: MA/PA

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

45PSS That might be the best option for now, I'll send you a PM.
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