Graflex.org

[Joshua Szulecki]

***EDIT: Look below. Issue Resolved. Problem was Behind the Groundglass ***

Hey folks,

I'm having an issue with my Pacemaker Speed 4x5 with side-mounted Kalart. The actuator arm for the rangefinder isn't attached to anything at the end opposite the rangefinder.

If you look in the following image, you can see that it is not connected:
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6465.jpg

If you look in the next two images, you can see where I assume it is supposed to connect. I cannot figure out how it connects.
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6467.jpg
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6468.jpg

Problem is, when I put it there, nothing holds it in, and it binds on the focus rail board support arm thing. As shown in the next images.
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6469.jpg
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6470.jpg

Basically, it looks like there is a place for it, and it goes there, but focusing outside of a limited (like infinity to 25ft) area causes it to bind on the support, and when I fold the camera up, the actuator pops out of the hole. The eccentric screw doesn't appear to tighten.

I've had the camera for over a year, and I was happy using the ground-glass for focusing for a while, but I'd like to use the camera a little more agressively. I just noticed this was why the RF didn't work the other day. Moved by hand, the rangefinder appears totally functional. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[troublemaker]

Your second image shows the slotted eccentric very well. The arm is supposed to ride between this wide slotted head and the mounting plate bracket. One of your later images shows the arm inside of the plate which is improper. Be careful you do not damage the camera closing it.
When properly set, you shouldbe able to run the rails way out beyond the useable range of the Kalart, and when run back in, the eccentric should seat properly with the arm. See if the camera will do this on its own. Did you just get this camera, was the Kalart working at one time and soon and so forth...? There is a couple pages on this site about adjusting Kalarts, and there may be an image explaining the eccentric. It is part of the adjustments for setting infinity and calibrating the rangefinder.
Give us more info so we can determine what you have got there.

[45PSS]

The actuator stop is set up with the rails set fully rearward and then foward 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Actuator arm rides on the stop at the rear of the stop eccentric. Stop is positioned on the rear rail so that RF infinity is at camera infinity.



Actuator arm will almost touch the rear of the camera body when it is at infinity.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[Joshua Szulecki]

I'm a little stumped by what you've both just told me...

Troublemaker:
Don't worry, I made sure that I removed the arm from that position before I closed the camera.

But, I'm not grasping how the arm is supposed to sit with regards to the eccentric, can you post a side-on picture of a working camera?

45PSS:

That first image shows the eccentric, but that raises an issue. Your picture shots it distinct from the frame, but my eccentric stop moves with the lens during focusing...

Both:

The camera is equipped with a 135mm Optar. The distance scale on the bed is set (by me) at the last set of screws, and that roughly corresponds to accurate focus in the ground glass. It was originally set in the wrong place, much closer to the body, and didn't correspond to accurate focus in the groud glass. I assume the camera was used by somebody with multiple lenses. I've had the camera for a while, but the Kalart has NEVER worked right (see above).

[Joshua Szulecki]

BTW...

With a quick eyeball measurement, the arm follows the back of the eccentric as it moves up to about the old distance scale location. That's where it stops moving.

[Dan Fromm]

Joshua, the arm is supposed to follow the eccentric as the bed is moved forwards from the infinity position to focus closer. When the arm reaches the RF's close focusing limit it will stop moving forward. For a normal lens, the limit is around 4'. Your last post makes me think that it is behaving normally.

[Joshua Szulecki]

Well then I suppose my problem is that the arm's range of motion does not relate to the range of focus on my camera. You can see what I am talking about in these image pairs.

Here the camera is set at 6ft, as evidenced by the distance scale, and confirmed in the ground glass. Note the location of the arm in the second shot.
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6471.jpg
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6472.jpg

Here the camera is set to infinity, as evidenced by the distance scale. Note the location of the arm in the second shot.
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6474.jpg
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6475.jpg

These shot shows where the eccentric finally makes contact with the arm in relation to where the rails are.
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6478.jpg
http://www.szulecki.com/images/IMG_6476.jpg

Because I've used the ground glass for all focusing until the other day, I hadn't noticed that the distance scales didn't align with where the camera was actually focused. Unfortunately, I'm still trying to track down the other screw for the scale. Is it possible that the arm is wrong for the lens?

[Dan Fromm]

Joshua, which lens is mounted on your 4x5 Pacemaker Speed?

I ask because you show it focused to 6' with the front standard on the inner bed rails. I believe that with the RF set up properly etc. for the 127/4.7 Optar (that's what it looks like) the infinity stops should be on the outer bed rails.

[troublemaker]

You need to flip the bed lock on the bottom of the front standard and slde the standard up to the little stops outonthe front rails and lock it down there. Forget the scale for now. Also, tell us if the rangefinder is working by looking through it and running the focus from all the way back, then forward and back etc... The split image should line upon an object a couple miles away when the rails are turned froward from a 1/16th to an 1/8th inch from therear most position. Some folks have set infinity all the way back which is fine for now. Then see if the lens agrees with this by setting the lens standard forward against the rail stops and checking the ground glass. If this is good or close, then try the rangefinder on a closer subject and see if it lines up and the lens is in focus. This will tell you if the rail stops are in the right place, and if the RF is calibrated for that lens. If his is all good, set the RF at infinity again and then move the inboard scale up the end of the rails where it belongs and allign it exactly so that infinity lines up with infinity. But the firstthing youneed to do is get the standard unlocke andslid up to the stops !!! When you close the camera, to prevent damaging the inner rail guides, run the rails back into the camera all the way then unlock the standardand slide it allthe way back and lock it down. The drop bed should then fold up and snap shut easily. if it does not, lock the bed back down, pull the standard back out and re-try...

[Joshua Szulecki]

D'oh!

I've been using my camera wrong for over a month!

Somehow I missed the ""Draw the front standard out to the infinity stops and lock" line in the manual when I pulled the camera out of storage for the fall. I remember now having to do that step when I was using the camera more regularly.

The rangefinder works just fine. It isn't spectacularly clear, but you can definately make out enough for focusing, even in low indoor lighting. Had I tried to use it when I first got it, it would have worked then, too. I feel stupid but relieved. I guess it is a good thing I posted those pictures...

[troublemaker]

Heh heh heh...
It's the help board, not the stupid board.
So it works, hurrah !
Since I went to the trouble, here's an image of a Crown opened up properly where I circled the bed lock, stops,and properly positioned scale.


http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=6613403

Now that you got it, certainly don't hesitate to ask more questions.
There are also some manuals for the Graphics on line at South Bristol News...
Have fun

[Joshua Szulecki]

Troublemaker,

I read right past that paragraph in the manual (from south bristol views) about four times while troubleshooting my "problem" last night. I can't tell you how many times I've told somebody to read the manual, only to have myself actually READ the manual, and still miss an important step. The worst thing was, I was looking at the standard lock thinking that I remembered needing it for something. That's the last time I'll leave my camera in the box for 6 months!

Btw, your camera is a lot less beat up than mine. I'd love to know what life mine lived. It was certainly well used at one time, then stored for a number of years before I got it. It's at least twice my age, maybe more, so there has to be a heck of a story there.

[45PSS]

Yep, that's what those little thingamajig are suppose to do and are working fine. Lots of stupids on this site as some make it more obivious than others. I just wish one could put the lens to one eye, trip the shutter, and capture the immage that you are thinking of or expecting to get.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[Joshua Szulecki]

Well, the good news is that my faux pas didn't cause me to lose any pictures.

[45PSS]

Joshua,
Sounds like Trouble did a good job of creating a mental block that aided in you reading past the crutial information you needed. So take some soft cotton towels or rags and a bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol and give the bellows and body a good cleaning then coat generously with pledge Natural Beauity and wipe off the excess after an hour or so. It will improve the apperaance of your camera and make it a little more sliperly.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.