Graflex.org

R_J · Joined: 03 Aug 2004 Posts: 137 Location: Europe

Hi Dan,

That's spot on. I have noticed I shoot into the sun (sunsets). The 47mm Super Angulon is such a lovely little lens too. Although it tends to be 'cold' in colour rendition, it is still contrasty for a single coated lens. I've not found any other LF wide-angle lens which doesn't flare. Any experience with the Rodenstock stable?

On the 1/4 inch -20 (Whitworth) screw, it seems that McMasters-Carr are willing to mail a type which a built in rear flange on their website. I'll see if the mahoganite can be worked....

Henry · Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 8:55 pm Post subject:

Not to drag this out, but IMO drilling and tapping for an outside-threaded insert is overkill in this case. First off, you have to come up with the correct drill size for the tap, then you have to acquire the tap itself, plus a tap holder. If you already have this stuff, go to it. It is possible to make a suitable tap out of a hardened steel bolt of the correct size and thread count---I've done this myself to tap mild steel. (This involves making four equally-spaced cuts about 3/4" long along the bolt's length from the threaded end toward the bolt head; I used an emery cutting wheel in the Dremel tool. I happened to have the necessary equipment on hand, except the bolt, which is a standard hardware store item.) Having made the tap, you can use a wrench on the bolt head as a tap "holder." But what have you really gained for all this? The alternative is to drill a suitable hole for your (non-outside-threaded) insert, and fix in place with super glue or epoxy, preferably the latter. Since RJ is in Europe, he may have difficulty finding this non-metric stuff anyway. At least with my method, you could come very close to getting the correct hole size with a metric drill, and you wouldn't need to get ahold of the other things.

BTW, RJ, be sure to let us know how it turns out!

R_J · Joined: 03 Aug 2004 Posts: 137 Location: Europe

Henry,

I'm just waiting for the flat-capped 1/4 inch tap and the moroccan grain. The solution isn't that far away. Perhaps being a little hasty, I've tried to reglue the leatherette on. It has clearly shrunk away which means it no longer covers the Graflex.

If I could upload an image, I'd show you - I've reconfigured the bellows and the Crocstrap and already it's looking like a different camera.

Henry · Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 9:31 pm Post subject:

Hi, RJ--just curious about "reconfigured the bellows". Can you explain what you did and why it was necessary?

R_J · Joined: 03 Aug 2004 Posts: 137 Location: Europe

Henry · Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 10:45 pm Post subject:

Wow, that must be a unique set-up, RJ! I've never seen a rear bellows/loupe combination such as this. Are you pleased with the focussing ability as it's configured? In theory it seems that it should give fine results.

That Croc strap looks very slick. You'll have no problems holding the camera securely with that baby on there!

R_J · Joined: 03 Aug 2004 Posts: 137 Location: Europe

Hi Henry,

The bellows-magnifying groundglass unit is much more useful for focussing than I've ever found the standard flip hood; it is more precise for critical focussing across the whole of the ground glass; I daresay it refines the Century's simple groundglass viewing system with a touch of European panache - definitely more user friendly now.

A question about the leatherette again: I'm still in two minds about replacing this. Would it be a disaster to paint-coat the leatherette with black enamel paint?

Henry · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:17 pm Post subject:

Gee, I don't know, RJ, the leatherette doesn't look so bad to me in the photos. If it were mine, I'd see if I couldn't bring it back to life by application of something like neat's foot oil. While intended for real leather, it would probably work on synthetics. Another product, if you can find it, is Lemon Pledge, preferably in the plastic spray bottle, not the can. You could try either of these on a small inconspicuous spot and see how you like the results. (I would definitely avoid something like Armor-All, which is a real killer. Why people put this stuff on their auto trim is beyond me; it eventually destroys plastic. I speak from bitter experience!)

The problem with any kind of paint is that once you do it, it's history. Getting it off without harming the material would be next to, if not entirely, impossible, and I fear the results would look like---well, painted leatherette. Not a good option, IMHO.

R_J · Joined: 03 Aug 2004 Posts: 137 Location: Europe

Henry,

the leatherette doesn't look too bad in the digital image; I just haven't learn how to disable my mobile phone's photoshop algorithm which automatically saccharinises everything and renders things less life-like.

It's falling off; the leatherette has been reglued and it's coming off at the edges still and there are bumps underneath its painfully thin membrance of non-cushioning cover. Thinking about the leatherette, it is strikingly, less than 1mm thick. It is possibly not the original leatherette for this Graflex - perhaps this is a replacement I have come to know as the 'original'?

It does need to be retired. If I painted it, the covering that is, I would strip the Century of it prior to painting. Although on reflection, painting the leatherette is such an awful idea.

Henry · Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:33 pm Post subject:

I'd look around on the 'net for suppliers of similar material (several links have been posted on the board, use the search feature), then strip off the old stuff if it's that bad and replace it with new. Cement it with something durable and non-toxic. E.g., the new rubber cements are said to be archival, and behave like contact cement if applied to both surfaces and allowed to air-dry for a minute before application.

You won't be happy with the results if you paint what's on there, but since you plan to strip it anyway you might as well satisfy your curiosity and give paint a try. If it turns out looking good, then you're brilliant!