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[gmyers]

I'm toying with the idea of using my 4x5 Anny as a light source for doing 5x7 and 4x5 contact prints.

I don't have a cold light back that the speeds use but since I'm not using a negative carrier, I'm thinking of just using a normal 45 watt bulb in the bellows to display the image circle onto the negative.

The pro(s) that come to mind is a contrated light source. That would be better than just using a spare table lamp? Another reason to use the Anny would mean that I could also use filters.

Does anyone see any major pitfalls in doing this?

[Les]

I've been thinking on this for about 10 minutes and cant find a benefit to using a Speed Graphic for contact printing.

I'm not sure what paper you are using. If you are using projection speed paper (ie all of the common B&W papers out there) Then a 45W bulb might work, but if you want to play inthe world of Alt photo it won't be enough. and any bigger and you'll start toasting the body of the camera.

Here's what I do vaguely remember. When I contact printied a roll of film I would focus the edge of an empty 35mm carrier and raise the head so it covereds the print framer, my exposure was in the neighborhood of 10 to 20 seconds wide open. If I removed the lens and just used the colimated light from the enlarger the exposure was more like 1-2 seconds it may even be shorter.

Michael Chamlee has made a carrier out of using Ultra large format cameras and contact printing the negs on low speed paper. He uses a PAR light (those lights for outside you find a the local home center)
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"In order to invent, you need a good imagination and a lot of junk" Thomas Edison

[disemjg]

The first question is, does your camera have a Graflok back or the original spring (Graphic) back? If your camera has been updated with a Graflok back you can easily remove the insert when you want to set the camera up as your contact printing light source. The spring back is not intended for easy removal.

The next issue will be developing some means of diffusing the light; perhaps a series of frosted glass panes would be sufficient to avoid hot spots, but I'm not sure. Once you select a light source, you would need to construct some type of adapter to mount the diffusers and the light at the back of the camera, with minimal light leaks. You will be restricted to low wattage lamps, since anything that gets too hot will be a fire hazard. This risk may be significant depending on your choice of materials for the project.

All in all, I'd be content with just switching on and off a regular light source to make the exposure rather than expend the effort to set something up using the camera. You may even be able to use filters if your selected light source can be restricted and is not too hot.

Another option may be to get a used amateur quality 35mm enlarger for the purpose. That would let you use the filters if you needed to, and that type of enlarger should be very cheap these days.

Although I'd have to agree with Les that there is no real benefit in trying to kit up the camera to do this, unless you like chasing windmills.