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[ImageMaker]

I've got a vintage appr. 1939 Anniversary Speed, on which the front standard is a little bit loose on the bed rail, but adequately tight on the internal rail in the body. As nearly as I can see, the bed rail's top section is a smidge thinner than that in the body, and it seems likely there's enough wear in the standard and/or clamping plates that it just can't quite clamp on the rails on the bed.

This is a problem, because the standard can produce 2-3 degrees of "swing" movement, unintended, from the forces required to set the aperture or front shutter speed. When locked down, the locking handle hits the bottom edge of the standard frame, and the actuating balls are clearly out of their recesses in the rotating plate, but the clamps still aren't tight.

I think I can fix this easily enough, likely by adding a few thousandths of brass shim to the ends of the clamping plates, but I need to get the front standard off the bellows before I can start figuring out how to take it apart (and I haven't seen any service manuals for the Anniversary model, so I suspect I'm somewhat on my own).

So -- how do I get the standard off the bellows on an Annie model? I'm guessing hidden screws -- but where?

_________________
Is thirty-five years too long to wait for your first Speed?

[disemjg]

The clamping mechanism is the same as for the later Pacemakers; it is adjusted under the front standard.

Run the front standard back into the body, and drop the bed. Carefully pull the standard forward, and let it come off the rear section of the yoke where it crosses the bed hinge. The front standard is now loose in your hand, attached to the camera of course by the bellows. On the underside is a shallow nut wih a screw slot in the middle of it; loosen the nut and move the screw in and out to change the clamping pressure. You will find that the nut wants to move the screw when you tighten or loosen it, so take steps to be sure it does not move unintentionally. It will probably take a few tries to get the tension right; do not make it too tight.

[ImageMaker]

Thanks, I was looking at that nut and thinking it wouldn't adjust what I need to adjust. Getting the standard off the rails, easy, and covered in the operating manual I downloaded. However, putting a wrench on the nut and a screwdriver in the screw would be easier if the standard weren't still attached to the bellows. Is there a simple way to detach those parts, and then reattach them when done adjusting, or do I just need to grow at least one more hand?

_________________
Is thirty-five years too long to wait for your first Speed?

[ This Message was edited by: ImageMaker on 2006-06-21 10:06 ]

[disemjg]

Best to grow that third hand; it' s really not too hard to do, using an open end or box end wrench and a screwdriver.

[ImageMaker]

Okay, just got through looking over the procedure to detach the bellows in the Pacemaker manual -- assuming it's similar on the Anniversary model, I'll find a way to handle this (so to spead) without that step.

Then I need to find some of the Pacemaker style folding infinity stops, but that's less urgent...

_________________
Is thirty-five years too long to wait for your first Speed?

[45PSS]

I pulled out my 3x4 Anny and all is like the Pacemaker for adjustment of the standard lock. If you have infinity stops, anny factory standard, mark position and remove them. run the rails out until gap behind front cross bar is clear of the bed. Slide front standard out to the open area just beyond the edge of the bed. With the lock in the unlock position follow the pacemaker adjustment procedures until the front standard is rigid when locked. 1 to 3 screwdriver blade widths may be all that is necessary to turn the adjustment screw. Use the screwdriver to hold the screw setting when tightning the locknut.
Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[ImageMaker]

I got the adjustment done today. I found a 10 mm wrench fit the nut well enough, though I suspect it was really 5/16" (made in New York state in 1939, a metric nut doesn't seem likely). Mine took about 30 degrees of screw rotation, applied in three increments, before it was tight enough not to move when I set aperture or shutter speed at the lens; I can still move it, but with some effort, and I think it's tight enough for what it needs to do.

Should help a lot with keeping the standard square.

BTW, your method is a lot simpler than mine, which involved removing the standard via the drop bed rail gap, adjusting, reinstalling, raising bed, and testing, multiple times. If I have to do this again, I'll just jump the standard to the end of the bed and then run the rail out as you suggest, no need to even move the infinity stops (actually, I have only one stop, camera left, for use with four focal lengths -- hence my need to look for some folding stop sets).

_________________
Is thirty-five years too long to wait for your first Speed?

[ This Message was edited by: ImageMaker on 2006-06-22 21:04 ]

[45PSS]

Check that the standard does not rock back and forth causing unsharp images.
I like "jumping the stops".
Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[ImageMaker]

I can force the standard to slide a little when clamped, now, but it doesn't move when I adjust the shutter; it requires a push on one side parallel with the rails. It doesn't rock at all.

_________________
Is thirty-five years too long to wait for your first Speed?

[ This Message was edited by: ImageMaker on 2006-06-24 18:30 ]