New member here! Could someone head me in the right direction? I worked for years with an RZ67 with a 180mm lens shooting people heads.I like seeing that way.Most (if not all)
of my work will be wetplate wide open.Need at least f4.5 but small size to fit 23.It could be conventional with a shutter, or a petzval to mount with a flange.Thanks.

2x3 wetplate? Are you sure? Are you shooting wet plate now or is this a hope/plan?

f/4.5 or faster? 160-170 mm? There are 160 mm or so f/4.5 tessar types in shutter. Among US made, Ilex, B&L and Kodak.

Dan Fromm wrote:

2x3 wetplate? Are you sure? Are you shooting wet plate now or is this a hope/plan? f/4.5 or faster? 160-170 mm? There are 160 mm or so f/4.5 tessar types in shutter. Among US made, Ilex, B&L and Kodak.

Yes Dan I shoot 8x10 Cambo with 8x10 and 5x7 backs.Sinar 4x5.I want to play around with a smaller size that is more compact.Board is 2.5x2.5 so it narrows the field down.

[quote="bwaysteve"]

Dan Fromm wrote:

Yes Dan I shoot 8x10 Cambo with 8x10 and 5x7 backs.Sinar 4x5.I want to play around with a smaller size that is more compact.Board is 2.5x2.5 so it narrows the field down.

Not as much as you'd think. See: http://www.galerie-photo.com/telechargement/dan-fromm-6x9-lenses-v2-2011-03-29.pdf

FWIW, there was no way my monstrous 6"/1.9 Dallmeyer Super Six could have been used at full aperture on my 2x3 Speed.

[quote="Dan Fromm"]

bwaysteve wrote:

Dan Fromm wrote: Yes Dan I shoot 8x10 Cambo with 8x10 and 5x7 backs.Sinar 4x5.I want to play around with a smaller size that is more compact.Board is 2.5x2.5 so it narrows the field down. Not as much as you'd think. See: http://www.galerie-photo.com/telechargement/dan-fromm-6x9-lenses-v2-2011-03-29.pdf FWIW, there was no way my monstrous 6"/1.9 Dallmeyer Super Six could have been used at full aperture on my 2x3 Speed.

What a great follow up Dan.Great research that is most helpful!I have my eyes on a Bausch and Lomb projection lens from the 30s 177.8mm f5.4.(Threads are 52mm.The part that goes in throat is 48mm and the part that fits flush on lens board is 55mm.Thanks for your help.Steve

If the article isn't clear enough about how to attach a barrel lens to the front of the board, please ask for more information. I've used several methods, depending on the lens.

Dan Fromm wrote:

If the article isn't clear enough about how to attach a barrel lens to the front of the board, please ask for more information. I've used several methods, depending on the lens.

Thanks Dan.Wondering if the rear element is mounted in front and is larger than the throat does it cause vignetting?

Here are a few ways to hang a lens in front of a board or shutter:

if the lens is threaded internally at the rear, a stepped bushing that screws into the rear of the lens and screws into the front of the shutter or is held to the board by a retaining ring.

if the lens is threaded externally towards the rear, a cup-shaped adapter that the lens screws into.

if the lens has no threading at the rear and cutting threads is impractical, a cup-shaped adapter with radial set screws will hold the lens ...

my 1.75"/2.8 Elcan's rear tube is narrow enough at the rear to pass through the standard. It is held to the board by a nylon clamp that's held to the board by screws.

Vignetting? This can be a problem with short focal lengths, shouldn't be one with the focal lengths you have in mind. But if the lens' rear element is larger than the hole in the board/at the rear of the adapter, you may lose some speed.

Dan Fromm wrote:

Here are a few ways to hang a lens in front of a board or shutter: if the lens is threaded internally at the rear, a stepped bushing that screws into the rear of the lens and screws into the front of the shutter or is held to the board by a retaining ring. if the lens is threaded externally towards the rear, a cup-shaped adapter that the lens screws into. if the lens has no threading at the rear and cutting threads is impractical, a cup-shaped adapter with radial set screws will hold the lens ... my 1.75"/2.8 Elcan's rear tube is narrow enough at the rear to pass through the standard. It is held to the board by a nylon clamp that's held to the board by screws. Vignetting? This can be a problem with short focal lengths, shouldn't be one with the focal lengths you have in mind. But if the lens' rear element is larger than the hole in the board/at the rear of the adapter, you may lose some speed.

Thanks Dan,This is all pretty clear and I meant loss of speed rather than vignetting.I was just hoping there was some stock part out there rather than $95 and a 5 week turnaround per lens.There are many flanges out there of the stated size but who knows if they fit and most cannot be returned.

I'm sorry, but I think it will all be custom work.