I managed to get a Super Graphic, but am having trouble getting it to focus at infinity when the front standard is locked at the infinity stops. I can get it to focus by moving the standard a bit back, but am confused why it isn't at the stops themselves.

Also, obviously this makes the rangefinder highly inaccurate. I'm aware of how to change the dial reading (by moving the little black arm on the door up or down the rails), but am also at a loss to get everything to match up properly (i.e. with the infinity stops and focusing).

PS I forgot to add the lens is your typical 135mm optar graphex. I don't think a different lens was swapped out for the original one, but my only reason for thinking that is because the camera came with its original lensboard, so maybe I'm wrong.

With the yoke set to your preference, A). set the yoke fully retracted or B). forward of fully retracted by .040±.010 inch and lock them with the focus lock. Loosen the infinity stops and slide them out of the way. Unlock the front standard, slide it out until a infinity target is in sharp focus on the ground glass then lock the front standard. Check the standard to be equal distance from the gg on both sides of the standard. Slide the infinity stops against the front standard and tighten the screws.
The lens has been changed, the rangefinder cam has been changed at some point in time or the rangefinder is out of calibration.
https://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=4647
https://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=4653
https://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6211

Yoke is Graflex speak for rails.

Thanks for your help! The only thing I'm worried about before adjusting the infinity stops is the rangefinder dial doesn't turn to infinity, even when the yoke is fully retracted (it stops a hair short).

I also noticed today the aluminum strip bends a little when I try to retract the yoke further, perhaps explaining why it doesn't go to infinity (I decided not to force it further).

In fact, when I first got the camera, I noticed the dial froze up when moving the yoke for focus. On closer inspection, there appears to be a slight bend (probably the result of many years in storage with the door closed, bending the strip over time) which sort of jams it from moving freely. The dial still moves, but sticks past 7 feet (a gentle tap on the strip helps free it to move, but I was hoping there might be a better fix).

Finally, do you know of any sources for battery doors (mine's missing)? I realize it's kind of a long shot as there a lot of Super Graphics out there without battery doors, but I'd love to get it to work as originally designed if possible.

https://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=7020

The actuating strip bends and is a weak point in the RF system. Bond a small
piece of plastic to the end of the actuator and use it to pull the actuator out/push it in.
If the tube has slipped out of position the actuator will run out of room before pushing the cam fully to the infinity position.

http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/Super%20or%20Super%20Speed%20Graphic%20Service%20instructions.pdf
http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/Super%20Super%20Speed%20Graphic%20IPB.pdf
and more at http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/graphicmanuals.html

By bond do you mean for the plastic to act as a strip lengthen-er?

No. Glue it to the top of the actuator strip close to the front edge of the strip to act as a tab to easily grip to pull or push the actuator in or out.

The tube clamps will sometimes loosen and allow the tube to slide forward preventing the actuator from going in far enough to reach infinity although the actuator is at the end of physical travel.

Ah, I see. Thanks!

One more question: I ordered a new leather hand strap off eBay to replace the old one, but it's too thick for the metal mounts (it was made for Speed/Crown Graphics). The old strap is still in one piece, but it's cracked & I'm afraid it's only a matter of time before it tears. Is there somewhere I can order one made specifically for the Super Graphic? I'd rather not commission one from a leather worker if I can avoid it as I don't know any & suspect it'd be very expensive.

Go to your local leather supply store and get a belt kit or strip of scrap leather the proper dimensions and make one.

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/ usually has a scrap bin or two that they sell for pennies on the dollar. Its where I got the leather for handles for Graflex SLR's and patch pieces for missing sections on them.