Now that I have the latch sorted (well as a todo), I started focusing on the shutter. I noticed that if I press the shutter release in and don't release quickly enough the curtain doesn't fully close until the release button has been fully released. I believe this will definitely be a problem at 1/30, but may be a problem at 1/50 as well. Has anyone had this happen to them and how did they fix the issue?

Thanks again (man these are more complicated than my trusty Crown Graphic...)

Graflex Corp. specs for all its focal plane shutters is that the curtain should run and lock when released from O on the lowest tension with the camera/shutter in any position. Locked is the wind key will not move further opposite the wind key arrow.
With the tension on its highest setting the curtain should wind to its smallest aperture.

The get it going crowd will say to increase the initial tension on the curtain.

I would start by removing the camera back, set the curtain to O, tension to Low, and mark where the top aperture edge of the O opening is on the edge of the back opening. This makes reassembly easier.
The curtain roller bushings are on the left side and unscrew from the body. Some early versions of the camera covered them with the body covering.
The focal plane shutter servicing instructions begin on pdf page 12 of the manual you found.
They start on pdf page 12 of http://www.graflex.org/manuals/45-Pacemaker-Speed-and-Crown-Graphic.pdf for the side rangefinder version of the cameras.
Remove the curtain roller bushings one at a time as the roller shaft and bushing wear similarly and switching them from top to bottom may cause a problem. Wash the bushing with a good solvent, fill 1/3 to 1/2 the roller shaft chamber with graphitted grease and reassemble. Wipe off the excess grease that presses out.
Test the shutter, if it works correctly put the back on and you're good to go, if not proceed with removing the mechanism plate following the servicing instructions in the manual.

If you're unable to get working, http://www.cameradoctornyc.com should be able to get it working for you. He is (or was) a member here and did some work for me, which I was happy with.

I have no affiliation with him, other than being satisfied customer.

Thanks for all the pointers. I was able to figure it out and my speed graphic probably had a harder life than appears from the outside. The escapement assembly (from the service manual page 11, figure 18 ), was pretty bent so the gear assembly wouldn't rotate freely at the end of the shutter actuation. I just put the camera back together (and have my fingers crossed that I applied the correct amount of tension to the spring) and everything seems to be working correctly. Now if I could only figure out a good DIY for the door latch fixed I'd be in pretty good shape.

Thanks again!

VTHokiEE wrote:

...everything seems to be working correctly.

Glad you got it working! Please post some images after you've had a chance to shoot with it. You'll enjoy it! The Crown Graphics and Speed Graphics are great cameras...I have three Crowns and one Speed.

Quote:

and have my fingers crossed that I applied the correct amount of tension to the spring

4 to 6 turns is usually sufficient for Speeds.

Quote:

Now if I could only figure out a good DIY for the door latch fixed I'd be in pretty good shape.

Take a look at the end of the case catch spring, Top RF manual pdf page 31 figure 3 index 47. If the end of the Spring-Bed Catch turns up then attach a piece of .025 to .030 thick brass or aluminum to the center of the bed approximately 3/16 inch long with a turned down lip about the same length as the turned up lip of the spring.
Solder or JB Weld should work.

Graflex laid out its cameras using an Engineers Rule therefore all measurements are in inch, tenths, hundredths, thousands of an inch.