I'm in the process of repairing a 1921 Tele Graflex.
It was faded and heavily scuffed. I purchased some Tandy Leather Factory Eco Flo Leather Dye, http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/leather-dye/2600-131.aspx . After a coat of dye has dried the scuffs are Black but there is a lot of Bronzing on the other areas of the camera. How do I remove the bronzing?

thanks for the tips so far.
DO NOT USE http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/leather-dye/2600-131.aspx Eco Flow leather dye on these vintage cameras.

Why is that? What was the problem with that dye? What did you end up using?

How's that for responding to a question with more questions!

Neatsfoot oil and Kiwi Color Shine liquid.

It may be sacrilege but I have used Fiebing's Oil Dye with good results, the old fashioned stuff with lots of fumes. It is close enough to the original color that it can be used to touch up scratches and areas that have worn through, without having to coat the whole camera. but if you get bronze or bluish reflections from dyed areas, plain black shoe polish takes care of it.

45PSS wrote:

Neatsfoot oil and Kiwi Color Shine liquid.

I'm working on an Anniversary Speed Graphic. The leather is in decent shape overall, but has a few scuffs and some small areas of discoloration where I cleaned ups some verdigris. Think the Kiwi Color Shine would be a good product to help even things out a bit?

Heavily faded may need 2 coats.
A coat of leather dye (Tandy Leather Eco Flo or similar) and a coat of Color Shine will do well.

45PSS wrote:

Heavily faded may need 2 coats. A coat of leather dye (Tandy Leather Eco Flo or similar) and a coat of Color Shine will do well.

Thanks. Where in the process should the leather be treated with something like Neatsfoot Oil? Final Step?

yes.
Allow 24 hours drying time between dye, colorant, light coats of neatsfoot oil.
2 light applications of neatsfoot oil should be sufficient.