Just purchased a 4x5 Pacemaker Speed, serial 830677

It has a 127mm Kodak Lens dated 1948. Wondering if the body date is the same as the lens.

I put the lens shutter and focal plane through a DIY shutter tester. They all read slow, but are at least consistent with their speeds.

1949
http://graflex.org/manuals/45-Pacemaker-Speed-and-Crown-Graphic.pdf
What shutter is the Ektar in?

Supermatic shutter.

Ran some Fuji Polaroids and sheet film through the camera yesterday. No light leaks, worked fine. I didn't feel like trying to squeeze the polaroid holder under the back so I just held it in place by hand...awkward but no problems.

Range finder is accurate on distance for the lens... But dim and a little off on azimuth sync. Range finder has a focus spot...haven't checked to see if that is working yet. Either way, it looks like a good candidate for a laser pointer mod.

Image on ground glass was awesome...ended up taking a photo of it. Much clearer view than the Toyo I have - I wasn't expecting that. Maybe it was just the clear sky day we had...but it really popped on the gg.

I need to hunt down a place that can do a cla on the shutter and get the focal plane back up to speed. I'm looking for some longer barrel lenses and I'd like to have the full focal plane 1/1000 to play with.

I rotated the image... I didn't want to explain to the Facebook friend crowd that the image is upside down on the gg

I assume that you already are familiar with the way Kodak date-coded its lenses ("CAMEROSITY"), but if not, here's the link; scroll down about halfway on the page to see the table:

http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/lenses.html

As for repair, I've heard good things about this place, but have never dealt with them:

http://flutotscamerarepair.com/

You have a Graflock back, remove the GG frame ( silver arms on the GG frame, push in and slide )
your instant pack film holder has a lip along the film plane edge, if you're using Fuji instant
I'm assuming it's a polaroid version of the PA-45 ( 4x5 ) or the Polaroid 405 ( 3.25 x 4.25 )
attach the pack film holder with the sliding bars that are at the top and bottom of the camera back.

Squeezing a holder that thick under GG frame tho not impossible, is asking for trouble.

That link in my previous posts is the service manual for that camera. I have yet to see a FPS that test accurate on a shutter speed tester. Best to run some film through it and check density at equivalent exposures and against a known good shutter of the same scene and lighting. Graflex requirements are:
1. with tension at its lowest setting and curtain set to O the shutter should close smoothly and lock with the camera in any position. Lock is the wind key will turn in the direction of the wind arrow only. If a curtain is between stops the wind key will turn either direction.
2. with the tension at its highest setting the curtain should wind to its smallest aperture.
When both conditions are met the FPS is working properly and the speeds should be reasonably accurate.

Your camera has a Graflok back so you should be able to attach the Polaroid holder with the focus panel removed.

http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_4.html is the user instructions for a Top Rangefinder Speed and Crown. It will explain the Graflok back operation.
http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_5.html is the early version Pacemaker user instructions for reference.
You have to save each manual page separately.

Quote:

Range finder is accurate on distance for the lens... But dim and a little off on azimuth sync.

See Adjusting your Kalart and Replacing Bad Mirrors.
http://graflex.org/technical-information.html
new beamsplitter available at http://www.scientificsonline.com/

Remove the RF outer housing, clean the windows inside and out with a cotton swab and Windex, then clean the mirrors and reassemble. Warning the beam splitter coating may come off when attempting to clean with any cleaner.


I will send a PM about servicing the camera and supermatic.

Henry wrote:

I assume that you already are familiar with the way Kodak date-coded its lenses ("CAMEROSITY"), but if not, here's the link; scroll down about halfway on the page to see the table: http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/lenses.html As for repair, I've heard good things about this place, but have never dealt with them: http://flutotscamerarepair.com/

Henry - Thanks for the info - I used that to date the Ektar lens.

Jim C. wrote:

You have a Graflok back, remove the GG frame ( silver arms on the GG frame, push in and slide ) your instant pack film holder has a lip along the film plane edge, if you're using Fuji instant I'm assuming it's a polaroid version of the PA-45 ( 4x5 ) or the Polaroid 405 ( 3.25 x 4.25 ) attach the pack film holder with the sliding bars that are at the top and bottom of the camera back. Squeezing a holder that thick under GG frame tho not impossible, is asking for trouble.

Sometimes I miss the forest for the trees. I'd taken the GG frame off and held in my 405 back to take the shot. Totally missed the two sliding bars on the bottom that would have solved my issue. Thanks for the point out! And... agreed, don't want to force that back under the frame...too tight for my liking.

45PSS wrote:

1949 http://graflex.org/manuals/45-Pacemaker-Speed-and-Crown-Graphic.pdf What shutter is the Ektar in?

Thanks for all the info! PM reply on its way.

New question that I can't seem to find the answer for yet.

I've purchased a Graflex 250mm telephoto. I can't find documentation on what sized hole is required for a lens board. Any pointers to the right direction?

The lens is also missing the locking/retaining ring. I'm hoping any lens documentation might have that info. I think I could order the right size from skgrimes if I can't find one at auction.

Take a ruler and measure the outside diameter of the lens rear barrel thread peak to thread peak at the center. Convert inches to millimeters.
Barrel lens generally use mount flange while shutters use retaining rings. As long as the diameter and thread pitch are correct either will work in either application. Mount flange are heavier than retaining rings. Most mount flange have a .5 to 1 millimeter lip that seats into the lens board opening, retaining rings do not.
SK Grimes has a method of determining thread pitch.
I use a caliper and measure the distance from the start of the threads to the end of the threads. Next I count the number of peaks, divide the thread distance by the number of peaks which gives me the space per thread. Then I convert that into the SAE thread pitch. If measuring Metric threads I measure the threaded area in millimeters then dividing that by the number of peaks gives the millimeter per thread that the metric system uses.

All Wollensak lists is #4 barrel, #3 Rapax (Graphex) or Alphax shutter. Optar is Raptar rebadged.

Charles, Benoit now has the sizes. See http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/pratique/Les_obturateurs_centraux.html

Bookmarked.
Lists shutter mount sizes but not barrel lens mount sizes.

45PSS wrote:

Bookmarked. Lists shutter mount sizes but not barrel lens mount sizes.

In column 8 "Bague de montage"