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Screws of this era were not consistent in manufacture therefore two screws of the same technical size may be different in diameter or length by .001 inch.

To avoid confusion in reassembly put the screws of each part or assembly in a separate container, marking them if you desire.

1. Remove the view hood.

2. Remove the ground glass.

3. Remove the camera back.

4.Remove the film gate frame.

5.Remove the bottom plate.

6.Remove the wind plate. Hammer, 1/16 pin punch or similar, solid work surface, mirror shaft support block required. Warning: Damage to the camera will result if not done properly!


Picture text that may be difficult to read:
With bed open, front standard extended, and mirror cocked place camera upside down on a solid work table. Place a block of wood between the mirror shaft and the table. The block of wood must not allow any downward movement of the mirror shaft.

Using a 1/16 pin punch or similar drive the taper pin from the mirror shaft. The large end of the taper pin is toward the camera top.


7. Remove the tension plate.


Picture text:
Remove the P lever screw. Remove the P lever and its spring.
Remove screw from the end of the lower (tension) roller.
Unscrew the stop from the lower (tension) roller.
Both are standard right hand threads.

Holding the tension plate against the camera body remove the 7 screws from the perimeter of the plate.

Place a screwdriver into the slot in the end of the roller then lift the plate off the body to disengage the tension gear from the roller gear.

Slowly release the tension from the main tension spring by letting the screwdriver turn.


8. Remove the light block plates.

9. Remove the curtain guide roller assembly.

10. Remove the curtain from the top roller and remove the rollers from the body.

11. Getting grease into the lower roller bushing is not easy.


Reassembly is pretty much reverse of removal. Initial lower roller tension is set with tension on position 1. If aperture numbers are not center of the window when the wind key A is at the locked position turn the wind key clockwise until they are. 1 tooth on the top roller will make a large difference in the position of the curtain.
Aperture lower opening should be above the top guide roller when wound up to that aperture and the top edge of the aperture should be below the bottom guide roller once the curtain has run down from that aperture.

Initial tension should be 4 turns minimum to 12 turns maximum to achieve curtain close and lock on tension 1 from O, with tension set to 6 curtain should wind to the smallest aperture. If the curtain is too difficult or will not to wind to the smallest aperture then the initial tension is too high.

Important note:
The curtain was laid out with an engineers rule, it is in inch and tenths of an inch.

Curtain width 6 inches.
Left outer edge to aperture opening .4 inch.
Right outer edge to aperture opening .3 inch.
Aperture opening 5.3 inch.
Aperture stiffeners or stays:
Outside width 5.8 inches.


Measure your curtain carefully! Pieces and or openings may vary by 20%.

Thank you.

This needs to be placed in the Articles, Cameras or Technical section of website. It is too valuable to be buried in the forum.

Steve

Viewers may save the photos to their hard drive if they desire. Each photo is 400 x 600 pixels, 28kb -100kb.

This is the wind key disassembled. This one was missing a spring and a metal end.

The key should turn clockwise only.

Do not disassemble unless there is a problem.

Springs fit into the guides in the key. The metal ends go between the springs and the cap on the left of the picture.

This camera was modified to use 120 film. Images made with this camera are now online. Click on the www tab of my post(s).