I have a super graphic board that I just bought (the fellow had removed a 105 Xenar from the lens). The measurement doesn't seem to be a Copal 0. Could someone help me determine which lenses/shutters may fit in a decent portrait length?

Thanks

my Xenar is in a #0 shutter about 32.5mm Threads
but the hole in the Board is like 36mm

now a Symmar-S 5.6/300mm is in a #3 shutter it has 62mm threads

SK Grimes has this & other things to help in your Research

http://204.12.25.18:7883/library/used-obsolete-discontinued-shutters/compur


banjo

1banjo wrote:

my Xenar is in a #0 shutter about 32.5mm Threads but the hole in the Board is like 36mm now a Symmar-S 5.6/300mm is in a #3 shutter it has 62mm threads SK Grimes has this & other things to help in your Research http://204.12.25.18:7883/library/used-obsolete-discontinued-shutters/compur banjo

Ah, thanks Banjo,

My board measures about 32.5. I had read that Copal 0 is a little larger than that. But the Sk Grimes link does indicate that the Compur 0 is 34.6mm. So it looks like I should search for a lens in a Compur #0 - though I don't know what the longest lens in that size would be - probably not as long as a I would like, I suspect.

Now to do more research to try to find what specific lenses will fit the bill.

I appreciate it.

I think that you mite find some thing in a tele-lens in a #0
but the longest that I have is a tele-lens is a 240mm its in #1
but all of my other long lens are in #1 or #3 shutters

https://www.schneideroptics.com/info/vintage_lens_data/large_format_lenses/index.htm

you can look at Vintage Large Format Lens Data

Boards can be rebored with a larger hole. Get the lens you want, then have the board rebored to accept it.

I have boards drilled by www.skgrimes.com . There are other machine shops that will do the work.

Dan Fromm wrote:

Boards can be rebored with a larger hole. Get the lens you want, then have the board rebored to accept it. I have boards drilled by www.skgrimes.com . There are other machine shops that will do the work.

I am not sure that will work with a Super Graphic board that has the built in shutter and flash linkage.

gdi wrote:

Dan Fromm wrote: Boards can be rebored with a larger hole. Get the lens you want, then have the board rebored to accept it. I have boards drilled by www.skgrimes.com . There are other machine shops that will do the work. I am not sure that will work with a Super Graphic board that has the built in shutter and flash linkage.

The shutter isn't all that integral and neither is the electric flash release or solenoid.

Do you have a board with an empty shutter on it? Or do you have a board with a hole in it?

If a board with an empty shutter, what is the shutter? There should be a name (Compur, Copal, Graphex, Rapax, ... ) on its face plate.

If a board with a hole and nothing more, what's the problem?

Portrait lens for 4x5? People have used 180 mm, 210 mm, ... There are many choices and you don't have to get a telephoto lens.

I have an empty board with the mechanical linkage to the electronic shutter tripper. I can't imagine you can just drill the hole bigger due to what appears to be reinforcement structure around the existing hole. It looks like this is due to the two layers of the board. While I know that I canter by with a plain graphic board, I am looking to utilize the features of the camera including the body release, flash connections and release.

Another option for portraiture with a Graphic is to use a roll film back and the "normal" 135 lens.

I understand the potential issue with boring a larger hole in a Super Graphic board... interference with the internal shutter release linkage and flash connections. This is really only a probelm is one is using the solenoid release and the electrical connections on the body. I use both and have wondered same question but have never (a) found an internal diagram of how the sandwiched SuperGraphic board is constructed or (b) had a spare bard to dissect to find out.

The "Sandwiched" lens board for the Super series Graphics is nothing more than the standard pressed aluminum Pacemaker board with large bumps on the sides for the board locks and a plastic plate attached to the rear to make the release mechanism light tight.
The Super Speed 1000 board is an integral part of the shutter.
The release is a rigid pin in a guide, a catch that fits into a notch at the board base for the solenoid to engage and connected to the shutter trip lever at the top.

45PSS,

I have the regular sandwiched board, and also a 1000 shutter 135mm lens on the "custom " board.

Your comments made me take another look at the sandwiched board. I took it apart and I see now how it all works - it seems possible to make something that could work....

Thanks