Graflex.org
Get help with your Graflex questions here

body release on Pacemaker Speed 2X3
Graflex.org Forum Index -> Speed Graphic Help
AuthorMessage
mbachofen
Joined: 23 May 2001
Posts: 12
PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2002 2:21 am

I was fiddling with the two little adjustment screws on the vertical threaded piece which goes into a small metal cylinder, which in turn has a cable traveling to the body release. The screws surround a tiny bracket which triggers the front shutter. Now it won't. Arrgh. I was trying to tighten up things so I could use a cable release. Now I can't even use my body release. What did I do? Is it bad? Please help. Matt
extraparts
Joined: 10 Feb 2002
Posts: 59
PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2002 1:56 am

Why can't anyone ask a question about a camera that is in a case on top for once?

I think I know what you did, and no, you probably didn't hurt anything.


If it is like my camera what you were adjusting is to take the slack out of the cable. You should have another adjustment on the front of the standard that allows you to move the small bracket that actually triggers the shutter release on the lens.

I suggest that you loosen it (very small screwdriver), and rotate it out of the way so that it doesn't contact the shutter release. (Or just remove the lens) Then get your body relaese operating smoothly without slack. (the adjustments that your already moved). Once you have that down pat, then move the small arm back over the shutter release on the lens and lock it down.

P.S. the shutter is cocked isn't it?

Neal
mbachofen
Joined: 23 May 2001
Posts: 12
PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2002 2:11 am

Yes, shutter is cocked, but that doesn't really play a role here. The body release to cable to threaded rod is the problem. I can see that the body release moves the cable. The cable travels inside of a protective sheath (metal) this, in turn, goes into what I've mentally labelled the "cylinder" out of which extends the threaded rod. This rod connects, and is adjusted by the two small screws, to the shutter actuator. I got that out of the way. I'm afraid the connection to the cable inside the "cylinder" is apart. Is there any way to get inside this cylinder? It has a knurled bottom where the cable enters, but it is fastened to the front standard. I can't remove the knob which loosens the vertical rise. Arrrgh. I just wanted to tighten things up a little. ]
Matt
extraparts
Joined: 10 Feb 2002
Posts: 59
PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2002 3:39 am

I will look at mine again tomorrow and see if I can tell how to get the bottom off.

I also have a friend who has some junk cameras I can look at without fear of damageing them, but I usually don't get out there except on Saturday. He also has some replacement parts and a great deal of knowledge. If we haven't figured it out by then, he will probably know.

I am in Ft. Worth, how far away are you?

Neal

P.S. I broke the front element on a 135mm Leica Hectar trying to fix the iris. (Fixed the iris too, which made it even worse.) That is just one of many very expensive camera repair lessons I have had, so don't feel bad about a broken cable if that is what it is.
mbachofen
Joined: 23 May 2001
Posts: 12
PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2002 4:04 am

Wow, I am so far away. . . in Waco!
Thanks a lot. I guess it just came apart in there, unless I'm missing something.
Matt
extraparts
Joined: 10 Feb 2002
Posts: 59
PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2002 3:57 am

It can probably be soldered back on unless my friend has a spair.

Neal
mbachofen
Joined: 23 May 2001
Posts: 12
PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2002 10:26 pm

I think I can open it if I can just get the cylinder off the front standard. Will it break the adjustment knob to keep unscrewing it?
45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2002 11:05 pm

Send email request for FRONT STANDARD IPB to .

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2002-03-13 15:06 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2002-03-20 15:50 ]</font>
All times are GMT