I just received a Super Graphic with a (beat!) 127 Ektar and have some questions and would appreciate some help.

First I can get the back to fully revolve. It is in landscape orientation and will unlock and rotate exactly half way to portrait orientation (it stops at a diagonal).

It feels like it is hitting something - I thought it was the peep sight, but it does clear that. Any ideas?

Next the lens is not original (I think) and there is a P27 cam in it and the distance gauge moves. I looked up P27 and it is for a weird, slightly shorter focal length (125.something?) Is it possible that the cam is correct? Or do I need to hunt down a P28?


Finally - is there an economical way to test the electronic shutter? I have no battery door and don't want to throw money away on batteries and a door if it won't fire.

Thanks!

1. The back should rotate either clockwise or counterclockwise.
a). Does it jam when going either direction?
b). Do you have an Optical View Finder? If so is it fully forward?
The optical viewfinder has two positions it will lock in, the lever is on the side of the finder at the bottom.
c). Press in on the back release and hold in while turning. The track may need a clean and lube.

2. Lens are rarely the marked focal length due to production tolerances. A 125.3mm is 1.34% shorter than 127mm. Cams were machined to match the measured focal length of the lens not the labeled focal length. Ask the lens and cam if they are a match; set the camera up on a tripod and check infinity focus using a distant object. The rangefinder and ground glass should agree. Next focus on an object 25, 15, and 10 feet away with the rangefinder then check the ground glass with a loupe at each distance. They should agree. Having to change the focus when checking the ground glass about the width of one of the ribs on the focus knob is acceptable. Make all checks with the lens wide open.

Got an ohm meter?
http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=5114
The solenoid should have 31 ohms resistance. The solenoid can be checked by measuring across the mount post on the lower left rear corner of the front standard. Common problems are the switch contacts need cleaning; the brass strips inside the bellows break; the solenoid plunger becomes corroded and sticks. According to the diagram, placing the meter leads across the battery box contacts and pressing the switch you should read the solenoid + the resistor, about 2,700 ohms +/- 20% (2150-3200) .

Factory instruction manual:
http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_6.html
each page has to be saved separately, (windows- right click with mouse pointer on the manual page, save picture as).

Thanks 45!

I did find I could turn the back in the opposite direction and it works, eventually though it stops. Should it spin 360 degrees? if so I must have something blocking the track.

I do have an ammeter, I'll test the switch, and eventually the RF.

Yes the back should rotate 360 degrees stoppling only at the 90 degree points, film holder insertion side left, top, right, bottom.

It is a major job to service the camera back. The front standard/bellows assembly must be removed to get access. The rangefinder assembly must be removed to get access to remove the entire back from the camera. The revolving ring can be serviced with the back attached to the camera.

Rotate the back enough that you can see the back release button. Is the plate over the button and its return springs in place and flat? The cover is attached with adhesive and can come loose or be missing. With the back rotated to about 45 degrees check the lock paths that the release engages for foreign material. They will be visible on the body side. Remove the focus panel and try the back, if it will now go 360 the focus panel is hitting something.

If the lens is mounted on a factory lens board that links with the electronic shutter release then consider it origional and its a good bet the cam is matched to the lens.

http://www.craigcamera.com/ has repair manuals for the super if you need one.

Charles

Thanks Charles!

Yes the release cover is in place and nice and flat. I just realized that the back will rotate 360 degrees Clockwise so I turned it a few time now I can rotate it from LS to Portrait counter clockwise! There must be some obstruction in there that has shifted. For now it looks perfectly workable.

Yes the lens has board has the linkage for the shutter release button. Maybe it is original, in any case I think the cam is close enough for a F4.7!



Thanks again!

It sounds like the lubrication on the rotation ring dried up and formed a hard ball or chunk that was jamming things. With the lens board and focus panel off and the front standard extended to the front of the rails give the camera a good shake with each the front stand opening and the film plane opening pointed down and see if any thing falls out. Save any screws or other pieces that may be a camera part as their are many small ones.

The first two letters of the lens serial number are the year of manufacture, using this reference you can date it.
C A M E R O S I T Y
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0
The Super Graphic went into production around 1958 and date coding was introduced in 1960. Graflex did not keep good serial number records so exact date of manufacture is not possible with the serial number but a general one is. The serial number of the Super is on the body edge just above the battery door opening. If it is post 1960 the date code will be on the bottom of a cross member of the rails. If there is a date code then check it here: http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=3321
If their is no date code then post the serial number and I'll get you an approximate year of manufacture.

I shook the camera and little be of grime fell out - and the back now turns easily! thanks!

The lens is a 1958, but I can't find the serial number. Is it on the outside edge of the aluminum trim? or tucked inside the battery compartment? There is nothing on the bottom of the cross rail. Maybe it is a composite camera - body and rail of different eras?

We ran across one once before that the serial number was hidden on. Most are on the edge of the body just above the battery door opening. There was a production change 646124 being the last of the first design. The changes are internal of the camera, one is colored wires are used on cameras after 646124 instead of a small color dot near the end of all black wires. The serial number is probably inside the body and may be under the rangefinder assembly.

Ah - well mine does have some colored wires, maybe it is a transition model. I really appreciate your taking all the time to answer my questions, I have learned a lot!

I was speculating about the wires, just what the difference is is unknown. The Parts list list a different part number for the complete body 646124 and earlier than 646125 and later. I have not researched the difference in the parts and the service instructions are the same, there may be a slight difference somewhere. Graflex was notorious for announcing a production change, making a few copies with the change, then depleting the old stock before continuing with the newer. Some models of cameras have serial numbers that date a year or two after production ended and others have serial numbers two years earlier than stated introduction.
Yours is most likely a '58 or 59 if it matters. Mine is a '64 Super Speed. Glad you got it going.

It was posted far before but I am looking for a P27 cam. If it is still at your hand, could you sell it to me for a reasonable price?

gdi wrote:

I just received a Super Graphic with a (beat!) 127 Ektar and have some questions and would appreciate some help. First I can get the back to fully revolve. It is in landscape orientation and will unlock and rotate exactly half way to portrait orientation (it stops at a diagonal). It feels like it is hitting something - I thought it was the peep sight, but it does clear that. Any ideas? Next the lens is not original (I think) and there is a P27 cam in it and the distance gauge moves. I looked up P27 and it is for a weird, slightly shorter focal length (125.something?) Is it possible that the cam is correct? Or do I need to hunt down a P28? Finally - is there an economical way to test the electronic shutter? I have no battery door and don't want to throw money away on batteries and a door if it won't fire. Thanks!

gdi

It was posted far before, but I am looking for a P27 cam. If it is still at your hand and you do not need it, could you sell it to me for a reasonable price ?

TT