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Pacemaker Crown body release cable drag
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AuthorMessage
Doug Kerr
Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 177
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 pm

Yesterday I received an absolutely gorgeous Pacemaker Crown Graphic (side RF).

The body release works slightly stiffly. I would suspect that there is more drag in the release cable than is "proper".

I don't see any kinks in the cable. The rig at the shutter end looks fine.

What is the best way to ease the operation of this cable? I didn't want to flood it with speedometer cable lubricant until I heard from the experts.

Thanks so much.


t.r.sanford
Joined: 10 Nov 2003
Posts: 812
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 7:51 pm

You might want to look at the tiny crank assembly mounted to the inside of the body that transmits the motion of the body release to the cable. A couple of drops of "Teflon" lubricant on the bearing surfaces of the release and the crank might be a thing to try, before attempting to lubricate the cable assembly itself.
Doug Kerr
Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 177
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 12:28 am

Greetings,
Quote:

On 2006-08-04 12:51, t.r.sanford wrote:
You might want to look at the tiny crank assembly mounted to the inside of the body that transmits the motion of the body release to the cable. A couple of drops of "Teflon" lubricant on the bearing surfaces of the release and the crank might be a thing to try, before attempting to lubricate the cable assembly itself.

The drag seems to be after that, but I will check more thoroghly.

Thanks.

Best regards,

Doug
45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 4:39 am

T.R.'s suggestion is a good starting point. Next check the body attach point for loose screws and therefore weak spring tension, remember its a small screw in very dry wood. If loose and will not tighten remove the screw and glue a piece of a wood toothpick in the hole and reinstall the screw. The cable attach point is a pain to work on, removing the bellows and front standard help.
Disconnect the cable at the front standard and put a few drops of cable lube into the housing from that end, too much will run out and adverserly affect other aspects of the camera. The wider the lens the worse the cable operates on adverage.
Shutterfinger.
Doug Kerr
Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 177
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 4:14 pm

Hi, Shutterfinger,
Quote:

On 2006-08-04 21:39, 45PSS wrote:
T.R.'s suggestion is a good starting point. Next check the body attach point for loose screws and therefore weak spring tension, remember its a small screw in very dry wood. If loose and will not tighten remove the screw and glue a piece of a wood toothpick in the hole and reinstall the screw. The cable attach point is a pain to work on, removing the bellows and front standard help.
Disconnect the cable at the front standard and put a few drops of cable lube into the housing from that end, too much will run out and adverserly affect other aspects of the camera. The wider the lens the worse the cable operates on adverage.
Shutterfinger.

Sounds good.

By "cable lube" do you mean the type used for speedometer cables?

Thanks.

Best regards,

Doug
45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:29 am

that qualifies, use sparingly.
Doug Kerr
Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 177
PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:48 am

On further inspection, it turns out that much of the problem was that the cable was kinked in various places, apparently as a result of "bad luck" in furling up as the camera was closed eralier in its life.

A bit of work with the fingers and various kinds of smooth-jaw jewelers' pliers has made operation much better.

Best regards,

Doug

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Doug Kerr on 2006-08-08 02:48 ]</font>
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