I've just bought a Super Graphic on eBay and am having trouble with the rangefinder, which doesn't move at all. I haven't been able to find a picture that shows the connection between the camera body and the focussing bed so I'm not sure whether I am missing any parts, although I do have the correct cam installed.

After reading through the most recent thread the trouble seems to be with the "metal ribbon" that engages with the "little silver triangular thingamajig".

If I'm reading it right, the triangular thing is a stop and the metal ribbon should slide in and out freely as the focus is racked in or out. That metal ribbon is badly bent and is beyond the point where it could be straightened. Are replacement ribbons available and is it difficult to replace?

I live in Australia, so I don't particularly want to send it to a repairman in the US if it is possible to get the part and replace it myself. I've succesfully replaced the mirror and recalibrated a side mount Kalart RF so I hope it would be within my skills.

Quote:

If I'm reading it right, the triangular thing is a stop and the metal ribbon should slide in and out freely as the focus is racked in or out. That metal ribbon is badly bent and is beyond the point where it could be straightened. Are replacement ribbons available and is it difficult to replace?

With bed open to 90⁰ and front standard facing you the rangefinder tube will end at the lower right corner of the body. A piece of thin spring steel approximately 8mm wide is permanently attached to the end plunger of the tube. I call it permanent as I have no clue as to how to remove it, have had the pin break on one, seems to be pressure fit into plunger, ground out with a dremel and diamond cutter, reinstalled same ribbion with a piece of straight pin to connect it. This strip of spring steel rides against a triangular arm attached to the rail with two screws. The ribbion of spring steel rides in a track formed as a part of the bed block for that side.
Loosen the two rear most bed block screws and the one at the end of the arm that forms the track for the ribbion to slide in one to two turns.
Run the rails out and in and observe the ribbion, does it move in and out freely? Yes, carefully retighten the three screws and check operation.
No, Remove rangefinder tube which will require removal of the bellows to access the mount clamps and screws. On the Cam end of the rangefinder tube carefully decrimp the tube end and remove cam tension spring, spring punger, cam plunger, spacers and balls. Clean all parts and tube and reassemble. Ribbon mounted to plunger, ball spacer, ball, spacer....until all are used and spacer, cam plunger, then spring plunger and spring, and recrimp the end of the tube. Streaching the spring will increase the tension but will not solve draging tube parts or misaligned track on the bed.
Some recomend not using any luberication on the inside of the tube but drag will result. More than a trace amount of lubericant on the tube inside or parts will cause drag also. Extra fine graphite may work. The ribbon spring steel being bent at the bed close fold will not degrade the operation of the rangefinder signifantly in my opinion.
I have two, both I have to help the ribbion out with my finger, 25% of drag is due to bed fold and 75% is due to the guide block track, wish I had some rub/brush on teflon or simular lubericant. I wiped all parts of the rangefinder tube with a extremely thin layer of white lithium grease before reassambleing. All parts and cam move freely out of the camera, the rangefinder tube has a little adjustment room in the body and it does affect operation. Tube must be reinstalled so that bed will close properly with focus fully retracted.

Bellows Removal:
1.Remove focus panel from back.
2.Rotate back to 45⁰.
3.Using a small screwdriver remove the six retainer clips that hold the bellows to the back. Indented spots go to the outside on reassembly. There are two clips on the top and bottom and one each on the sides. Adjust back orentiation to improve access to the clips.
4.Remove lower rear mount bracket screw on the right side handle bracket as determined by holding the camera at shooting position.
Hold terminal strip retaining nut while turning this screw.
5.Remove the terminal strip cover and disconnect the three wires to the bellows only. Use needle nose pliers to pull the wire terminals off without damaging them or the wires. Note which wire comes off which terminal. Older cameras have a color tab close to the terminal on all black wires, newer cameras have red, white, and yellow wires in a black housing.
6.Slide front standard and bellows assembly out of camera and off end of rails.
7.Installation is reverse of disassembly.

Make notes on which rangefinder clamp and what washers or spacers are on each clamp and remove them then remove the tube assembly. Installation is reverse of removal.

See this post: http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?topic=3962&forum=1&5 for the adjustment procedure for the actuator.

Charles

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I think I understand it all now. I had another go at straightenening the metal ribbon and I can get it to move (with a little persuasion) but it still sticks and will bend on the folds rather than move. However when it does move properly the rangefinder moves as well, so everything else is functioning more or less correctly.

I see what you mean about the press fit pin. I've got some small acrews (1.4 & 1.7mm) which might be used as replacements. I think the ribbon will still need to be replaced, but until I can get soemthing to replace it with there's not much point in pulling things apart.

Next step is to try and locate new batteries. Despite the camera being filthy and the lens full of fungus the batteries hadn't leaked. One still had a label dated 1971 so I'm guessing this camera has been sitting in a shed for at least thirty years.

Thanks once again for your help.

Paul

Paul,
In the US the batteries are available at <a href=http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104685&cp=&kw=22.5v&parentPage=search> Radio Shack </a>. You can send me the money and I can send them to you if needed. Contact me via private message if you need the service.
Charles

I can't say for sure, but I vaguely remember someone in the past replacing that metal ribbon with a cut piece of a tape measure. They do come in many sizes and thicknesses and I wouldn't doubt it might work? It would probably be my first thought if I had to replace it.

Good luck with it!

You might try Fred Lustig in Reno,NV. He does have replacement (reproduction) pieces of flat steel material that links the rangefinder tube to the bed rail. When he replaced mine he said that once the steel "tape" acquires a permanent bend it is impossible to flatten. He said the only long-term & sure-fire cure is to store the camera with the bed kept in the dropped position, which is what I now do.

Midwest Photo just got a batch of Graphic parts; give them a note (jim@mpex.com) and see if they have the ribbon.

For anyone else, they also have plenty of infinity stops, balls and spacers for the RF tube, finder masks and other items. Ask if you want something weird. I already grabbed all the Grafmatic septums (sorry!).

Thanks for that info. I have been looking for infinity stops...

One word of caution though. Deal ONLY with Jim at Mpex! I e-mailed Jim about the stops and he quoted me a fair price for both one and two sets. Somehow Stuart there intercepted Jim's e-mail and quoted me a price for one set that was higher than the price Jim quoted for TWO sets! At this point, I don't even know if I'm getting them. Who's in charge, Jim or Stu??? There's no way I'd even pay Stu's prices...

Thanks for the tip, I'll email Jim and see if he has the metal strip. What are the chances of finding one of the special lensboards in a 0 or 1 size? The solenoid shutter release looks like a handy feature if I can get it going.

While Midwest has repro Pacemaker lens boards, I am not aware of the Super boards being available except as used. Go ahead and ask them and you may luck out; I think Jim said he had a Super board recently when I got a batch of Pacemaker boards from him. Midwest also has the batteries for the Super, although I do not know if they or Radio Shack has the best price.

But be sure the electric release on your Super is working before you chase down the special board. While mine is OK, the wires passing through the bellows are said to be a weak point. If possible power the thing up and be sure that the claw in the front standard moves when the button is pushed.

I've been nailed by Stu before; I got a GV I and wound up paying an extra fifty bucks for the case since it was not clearly identified as being included in their listing. I now only deal with Jim.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: disemjg on 2006-02-27 17:11 ]</font>

Super boards are difficult to come by and I am permanently on the lookout for them. Although I do have my price limits so I've let some go. They do show up on ebay now and then.

I have had no luck at all with mpex this past year either with orderinf from their web site or on the phone, excpet when I deal directly with Jim. Sure, they take back anything you're not happy with but that's always such a hassle and the loss of shipping, etc. I'd rather have it right in the first place.

And Jim got back to me and said he'd be back in the shop on Wednesday and straighten out my order. I always feel bad bothering him, but he's always so good at making things right...