Just brought a used RH12 rollfilm adapter for 2x3. Took a couple of weeks to get the time to test it out, but it's not working smoothly at all. When I flip the little lever to the left, and then try to use the main winding lever, it:
(1) moves stiffly
(2) sometimes the small release lever moves back to the right hand position, thereby stopping the stroke on the main winding lever.

I have a Singer RH10, and it works perfecly, thus my ability to compare actions on the two.

I loaded and reloaded film on the RH 12, and the same problem keeps occurring. The level action, even when not lopcked, it sometimes so stiff, the rollfilm unit starts to lift off the Graflokk back. Obviously, that's when I stop.

Has anyone run into this and any sugestions where to start?

I had this problem with two of my RH10s, and I solved it by removing the brass washer under the winding key---that's the little part that engages the slots on the top of the film spool, and turns when you advance the lever. There's a thin brass washer underneath the key that binds up against the top of the holder. To remove the key, use a small pliers, preferably smooth-jaw (such as modelers use), and turn the key clockwise---it's left-hand threaded. Try it and let us know if it fixes the problem for you.

I'll try it tonight. Thank you.

Well, before starting any surgery, I decided to carefully run a sample roll through the RH12. Loaded it correctly (I believe), advanced the indicator knob (close)to the "S", flipped the little lever to the left and repeatedly wound the lever until the dial got to the "1" (or pretty close), and the little locking lever flipped to the right and stopped the winding.

From then on, I carefully flipped the little release lever to the left and observed closely, At about 75 degrees through the stroke on the winding lever, the release lever flipped to the right hand position and stopped the larger winding lever. 12 times -- and then the larger winding lever was released to wind up the rest of the roll.

After doing this a couple times with (rewound) film and without film, I can only conclude that this is the way the RH12 rollfilm back is supposed to work. However, I did all this with the rollfilm back OFF the camera (2x3 Crown Graphic) Graflokk back, holding it steady and firmly in my big mitt of a hand.

ON the camera, winding the film seems to catch in places, and maybe this is where I got the idea that the rollfilm back was malfunctioning. When winding, it sometimes produces enough resistance that trying to continue the winding starts to pull the rollfilm back away from its seat in the graflok back.

I'd welcome any comments. Should gears inside the rollfilm back be lubed? The rollers or the roller ends? Does something need to be tightened? Are the graflok springs loose or stretched?

Even with the hassle and kinks, I'm beginning to grow an affection for this camera.

Strange that it works OK off camera but hangs up when mounted. As a matter of routine I lubed the internals with the Ronsonol/powdered graphite mix. I'd lube the rollers, too: the big one that takes the film, as well as the two skinny metal ones on the shell. Maybe there is some torsion on the holder shell (from the Graflok back slide locks?), which might be causing the film to bind up. I have noticed that certain films seem to offer more resistance to winding than other ones, probably due to slight differences in film thickness. Lots of variables here to confound us!

Ran and reran (rewound) a roll through it and it seems to loosen up a bit before the paper on the roll started to fray from all thr run-throughs. Got a new supply of film and will go out this weekend. When there's time, I'll try a little (very little) bit of gun grease on the roller pivot points. Thanks for all the input. This is gonna be worth the effort. (Even the roll that wound unevenly has some terrific negatives on it.)

_________________
"Success is going from failure to failure without losing your enthusiasm." -- Winston Churchill

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: polaski on 2005-09-26 04:34 ]</font>

This weekend carefully took off the winding lever. On central gear, two small side gears, and the main cylinder around it is geared inside. Cleaned and LIGHTLY greased with gun grease. Had quite an adventure putting it back to together, due to a springload catch cam/tooth on the inside edge and a moveable part blocking a hole that one of the cap pegs goes into. A decent set of jewelers screwdrivers was indispensiblem in holding things aside while I fitted the cap back on.

Lightly greased the roller seats. After the experience with the winding cap, I decided to forget opening the top gear compartment for the time being, and shot in two VERY brief shots of WD-40 into the compartment alongside the wind-cocking lever, on in each direction. Ran out of timt ro run a roll of film through, but the result of the C&L so far is an RH12 that winds like butter.

Tools needed: Thin blade screedriver, jewelers screwdriver set (a good one), small tube of gun grease, several toothpicks for grease application, WD-40, and two hands that can imitate three hands.

_________________
"Success is going from failure to failure without losing your enthusiasm." -- Winston Churchill

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Polaski on 2005-09-26 04:47 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Polaski on 2005-09-26 04:49 ]</font>

Water Dispersant-40 being a very light oil will only lubericate for a few uses then wear off resulting in a somewhat rough operation and uneven spacing/ possible overlap.
Now the "Beauty" of a Graflex roll holder is that they are the same, more or less. Different formats have different teeth counts on the gears and the lever instead of a knob and a teflon washer or guied roller or two added to the mix but assembled the "Same". With a manual for one you can fix any of them!
I have factory manuals for the RH20 and RH50, both from 1965. I have 3 service bulletins concerning winding torque: adding washer(s) to main pinion gear, to use of lubericants to loosening cover screws and aligning top to obtain smooth operation.
Contact me via private message feature for procurement of either.
I'm suprized that Henry did not damage the shell with the Ronsonol, maybe the older plastics aren't as suspectable to it as some newer ones will be.
Charles

All of mine except one are the General Dynamics or Singer roll holders, and there's no evidence of damage from the Ronsonol (naptha) fluid on any of them.

by newer I ment plastics made mid to late '70's on. Singer will be late '60's to early '70's.

Oh.