I have been experimenting with the range of movements possible with my Super Speed Graphic. I'm using the Optar 135mm lens that came with this camera. The problem I have come across is not so much what you might expect--lens coverage--as it is another issue that is very disconcerting. The bellows is visible on the ground glass when I use maximum rise. It isn't because the bellows is sagging, but is rather that the way the bellows unfolds doesn't allow it to clear the image path (mostly the rear folds of the bellows) as it is projected onto the ground glass. I do a lot of architectural subjects, so rise is the main movement I use. It is particularly noticeable when the back is rotated to vertical. I am currently using a 6 x 7 rollfilm back, so the vignetting is not a problem within my film area. But I would like to begin using 4 x 5, and an curious how others have solved this issue. Is there a bigger bellows that can be used? Or can I replace the front standard and use a non-tapered bellows?

Thanks,
Joe

Well I had to set mine up to see this. And you're right. I didn't even notice at first, but there is deffinitely a shadow at the top of the GG. I get no more than 1/8 of an inch or so with mine, also a 135mm...

Unfortunately, there are no exact replacement bellows for the Supers that I know of. And since it's the back folds that get in the way, there's also not much we can do about it. I did manage to cut mine in half (the shadow, not the bellows!) by simply pushing up on the bottom of the bellows inside the body as faar back as I could reach. I doubt if it could be raised enough to eleiminate the shadow though...

Unless someone else has an idea, I think you're out of luck. An alternative would be a longer lens. Even a 150mm may do it? You lose the wider angle, but also lose the bellows fold...

Let us know if you find an answer...

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-24 21:56 ]</font>

Thanks for your responses. Charles, I tried pulling the bellows to the front standard and it did eliminate the vignetting. Great idea! I had tried pushing up on the bottom of the bellows, which did little to help. I should mention that I have rigged up a simple bracket (made out of a coat hanger) that braces the bed up at about a 15 degree angle from horizontal (the opposite of the drop-bed position) in order to enable even more rise. In this accentuated position, some of the vignetting is still possible, but I'm resigned to the fact that I may have to live with it with this particular camera, esp. since I will also be using a 90mm lens on it. OTOH the 90mm may not require as much rise. I appreciate the quick responses to my query. I am really enjoying the great information on this forum!