I just recieved a Crown Graphic with a top mounted rangefinger and was curious to know what the date of manufacture is.

Serial = 905662

My other question is in regard to focussing on the glass screen. Forgive my ignorance as this is my first LF camera and or press camera so It's all new to me as yet. I have noticed when looking at the image that the entire subject is totally upside down.

I know that in MF photography such as with the Mamiya RB67 that I have the image is usually just reversed which makes composition fairly easy. In the case of the Crown the image is totally upside down which makes composition useless. Is this just the way things are done with the Crowns or am I missing something?

Thanks.

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In the case of the Crown the image is totally upside down which makes composition useless. Is this just the way things are done with the Crowns or am I missing something?

Well, if you look at the ground glass, the image is indeed upside down. A metter of getting used to, I guess. Or you can buy an (overpriced) bino-viewer, which turns everything back to "normal" again.
Or you can use the rangefinder, just like a normal rangefinder camera (provided it works :wink:)

Hey there.

Thanks for the response. I have no problem veiwing through the rangefinder but I have no masks so I don't really know how much image I am getting. I have an f4.7 135mm Optar and was trying to assertain the best composition possible given the angle of view.

I am largely a wide angle landscape photographer and would definately like to have the large glass screen control over composition if I can get it. Looking through the rangefinder isn't too bad but it's not that far from viewing through the lens on a plastic disposable.

Whats the deal on the overpriced gizmo that reverses things on the glass? Can you obtain them second hand or new only?

Thanks... oh, any idea's on the manufacture date on my box?

Check out this one for the binoviewers (reflex viewers is the correct name, I think):
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=search&Q=&ci=85

you can probably find it at ebay as well..

No idea on the age question, others might help you with that.

Thanks mate, apreciated.

Soon enough you'll find the upside world of the ground glass is easier to compose. It detaches you and lets you concentrate on the glass.

With my MF cameras that have waist level finders I've gotten to the point I can follow fast movement. My eyes see the movement in the finder going left and my body goes right to follow.

Just take the time to get used to it.

Also with Graphic cameras we have to distinguish between things that find the range (rangefinder) and the thing that finds the view (viewfinders)

The rangefinder has a very narrow angle of view and there is an accessory that actually magnifies the image so that those tiny objects as seen on the ground glass with a 90 or 100mm lens are actually quite large and easy to adjust the focus on.

The Viewfinder on top that takes masks won't help focus at all, and will give you only an approximation of what's on the film. 4x5 is very forgiving and you don't need to frame to the very last milimeter away from the edge.

does anyone actually use the sports finder?
WeeGee did, I think, how did he get stuff into focus? Just f/64, 2 meters and a blast of flash?

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On 2004-10-27 06:16, mfrissen wrote: does anyone actually use the sports finder? WeeGee did, I think, how did he get stuff into focus? Just f/64, 2 meters and a blast of flash?

I sometimes use my Speed's sports finder with the normal lens.

When in doubt, prefocus. If the RF is set up properly, the distance scale on the bed can be used for this.

I use the sport finder when I'm hand holding. And yes pre focus for closer stuff, if time allows RF focus and then reposition. Then I compose loosely, tweak it in the darkroom.

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On 2004-10-27 06:10, Les wrote: The Viewfinder on top that takes masks won't help focus at all, and will give you only an approximation of what's on the film.

Sure, I have no hassle focussing at any level with the ground glass or the rangefinder. My point ( re - masks ) was with regard to knowing how much image I am getting, edge to edge, when composing my shots. Because of the way I shoot, my style of composing requires allot of frame control.

Having the control on the ground glass the right way round, particularly for the kind of landscape work I do would be wonderful. If I can get hold of a cheapish 2nd hand Reflex Viewer then this would offer me the kind of control I am looking for.

It's a Brave New World with press cameras which I like allot. Can anybody tell me the relative age of my camera given the above serial numbers?

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On 2004-10-27 07:29, Simon White wrote: It's a Brave New World with press cameras which I like allot. Can anybody tell me the relative age of my camera given the above serial numbers?

Another participant on these boards, Gandolf, will be able to date the camera. I don't know if he checks the requests on a daily basis, but it seems he usually comes on atleast once or twice a week to reply to serial number inquiries. So be patient and he'll be around to respond when he has the chance.

Weegee had a unique method of focusing. He used flash for everything and just had two distance settings he used. That way, all he had to adjust was the aperture to coincide with the flash output vs distance and to take onto account the ambient light during the day. Very fast and effective, but remember, most of his work was rather hurried. Not good for scenics. The wire frame sportsfinder will probably give you the best idea of composition when not using the ground glass. Upside down and backwards is the nature of all view type cameras. You will get used to it and it will become second nature. For wide angle work especially, a focus magnifier of some sort is mandatory.