OK, I shot my first roll of film (Provia 100F) in my Century. The first three exposures were fine (a bit overexposed, but that 80.2.8 Xenotar rocks!), but the rest of the film was not exposed. I am absolutely certain I did not have the darkslide in.

The only thing I can think of is that I loaded the film incorrectly in the RH-10 back. Can someone give some quick directions on loading -- how to make sure film starts at right place, and is taken up correctly, etc.

Thanks!!
R.J.

I haven't used an "RH-10," but I do have an old 8-exposure "Graphic 120 Rollholder" that came with my "Century," and that I used happily for many years.

There has to be some simple explanation for the difficulty. If the first three exposures were correctly positioned on the film, then you loaded the holder successfully, and the film was advancing correctly. If you experienced no difficulty in winding on to frames 4 through 10 and subsequenly winding off to remove the roll, you have to assume the film transport is working as it should.

It follows that something prevented the image from reaching the film plane, and you ought to be able to figure out what it is by using the groundglass to watch what happens when you tension and release the shutter.

I have obtained the effect you describe many times, not only by leaving the darkslide in, but also by leaving the lenscap on. Most vexingly, on the first "Speed Graphic" I ever used, the front shutter would tension as expected and snap convincingly when released, but the blades did not always open! It took me awhile to figure out what was going on; but then we had the shutter repaired, and all was well thereafter.

Thanks for the advice T.R. As a matter of fact I just did what you said and checked all the shutter speeds on the ground glass. The Synchro Compur shutter definitely needs a CLA, as most speeds seem at least a stop slow.

If you know of a good technician who can do the shutter CLA, I'd be grateful for an suggestions.

Thanks,
R.J.

Quote:

On 2004-08-27 17:12, t.r.sanford wrote: I haven't used an "RH-10," but I do have an old 8-exposure "Graphic 120 Rollholder" that came with my "Century," and that I used happily for many years. There has to be some simple explanation for the difficulty. If the first three exposures were correctly positioned on the film, then you loaded the holder successfully, and the film was advancing correctly. If you experienced no difficulty in winding on to frames 4 through 10 and subsequenly winding off to remove the roll, you have to assume the film transport is working as it should. It follows that something prevented the image from reaching the film plane, and you ought to be able to figure out what it is by using the groundglass to watch what happens when you tension and release the shutter. I have obtained the effect you describe many times, not only by leaving the darkslide in, but also by leaving the lenscap on. Most vexingly, on the first "Speed Graphic" I ever used, the front shutter would tension as expected and snap convincingly when released, but the blades did not always open! It took me awhile to figure out what was going on; but then we had the shutter repaired, and all was well thereafter.

Quote:

If you know of a good technician who can do the shutter CLA, I'd be grateful for an suggestions. Thanks, R.J.

Check your private messages..

Jeff



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: jsiladi on 2004-08-27 19:11 ]</font>

There is a scanned <A HREF="http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/rollfilm.pdf">instruction sheet</A> for the Graphic rollholder on the <A HREF="http://www.southbristolviews.com">South Bristol Views</A> site. The instructions are for an earlier knob-wind rollholder, but the later models work the same.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Dave on 2004-08-28 06:55 ]</font>

Having the shutter cleaned, lubricated and adjusted is a very good idea, and ought to solve the problem; but that problem may not exactly be that the speeds are off.

Some set-and-release shutter designs surround the radially-slotted ring that actuates the shutter blades with another concentric ring, driven by the mainspring and fitted with a pawl or dog that engages a detent in the actuator ring to open the blades. The pawl pops out of, or is pushed out of, the detent to allow the return spring to pull the actuator ring in the other direction, closing the blades.

If dried lubricant or other crud impedes the movement of the pawl, it is entirely possible for the user to tension the mainspring, trip the shutter, and have the driver ring rotate vigorously without pulling the actuator ring along with it. This could occur even if the timing gears were clean and working correctly.

Good luck on solving your problem(s). And by the way, isn't that Provia 100F nice stuff? I've shot a few rolls of it now and will never go back to "Great Yellow Father," as Kodak used to be referred to in the photo mags. Also, Fuji has invented a really ingenious yet simple improvement that makes loading 120 a snap. The paper backing has a hole punched just beyond the tab, and this engages a little "T"-shaped post in the takeup spool slot (the empty spool has to be a Fuji also for this system to work). Voila! No more #%@&*slippage when you try to wind on when loading.