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Adding fall to an Anny.
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Sjixxxy
Joined: 27 Apr 2004
Posts: 109
PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2004 9:18 pm

I often wish I had a little bit of fall on my anniversery. I can fake it by shooting vertical and using the left shift, but then I'm limited to only using it on vertical photos, and many times I want it on horizontals.

Today it hit me. I own two identical lenses, so I figure I can just build a custom lensboard for one where the lens hole is as close to the bottom edge as I can make it instead of at the center. Could also try to make it mountable in any direction and use it to also increase the range of the shifts and rise as well. I sometime hits situations where I want a little more rise, and this could help, as long as it doesn't take it beyond the coverage of the lens.

Sound like a good plan?
Dan Fromm
Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2165
PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2004 10:07 pm

Quote:

On 2004-08-18 14:18, Sjixxxy wrote:
I often wish I had a little bit of fall on my anniversery. I can fake it by shooting vertical and using the left shift, but then I'm limited to only using it on vertical photos, and many times I want it on horizontals.

Today it hit me. I own two identical lenses, so I figure I can just build a custom lensboard for one where the lens hole is as close to the bottom edge as I can make it instead of at the center. Could also try to make it mountable in any direction and use it to also increase the range of the shifts and rise as well. I sometime hits situations where I want a little more rise, and this could help, as long as it doesn't take it beyond the coverage of the lens.

Sound like a good plan?

Its been done before. So do it.

Cheers,

Dan
Dave
Joined: 05 Dec 2003
Posts: 78
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 1:15 am

This is called an offset or eccentric lensboard. I think they've been used mostly for wide angle lenses, where the short bellows extension could limit camera movements. I think they've also been used on some obscure non-bellows cameras, but somebody here will know more about that than me.

Aside from coverage, there are possible problems. One is that the camera bed may get in the way of your image, because (this is correct, right?) you can't drop the bed on your Anniversary. The second is if your lens has a big rear element-- it might be OK in the middle of the lensboard, but it could run into the bellows if it's mounted eccentrically.

I thought of doing this last year with a 150mm lens, to give me a bit more movement on my little Century. In the end, I never did it-- the main problem was the #1 shutter would have got in the way of the locking lever and the slides that hold the lensboard. This would be less of a problem with your bigger camera.
Les
Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 3:10 am

All of my Annys have bed fall but no back tilt
t.r.sanford
Joined: 10 Nov 2003
Posts: 812
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 3:47 am

The "Anniversary" model's drop bed without corresponding lens tilt capability is one of the relatively few reasons to prefer the "Pacemakers."

Perhaps a quick and dirty solution would be to make a sturdy square frame with a tripod socket (e.g., a "T-nut") in the lower horizontal member and a 1/4x20 setscrew passing down through the upper one, and just hang the camera upside down when it is necessary to correct the convergence of verticals below the horizon line.
Dave
Joined: 05 Dec 2003
Posts: 78
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 3:50 am

Sorry, my ignorance. If you can drop the bed, I guess you could use the offset board with a WA lens, as long as the front standard's on the back rails, correct?
Sjixxxy
Joined: 27 Apr 2004
Posts: 109
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 4:01 am

I've thought about the hanging frame, but I'd need to invest in a larger bag to take it into the field, I still have enough room to pack an extra lens though. Just took a look and few measurements, don't think that there would be any collision problems. The reaer element threads only go past the flange by maybe one mm, and I could drop the lens about an inch before it hit the locking lever, and I don't think I could go that far down judging by where the flange would be position then. Maybe 3/4" I could get away with.
Dave
Joined: 05 Dec 2003
Posts: 78
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 4:50 am

Does the Anny have a left side tripod screw hole? An easy way to hang a Graphic upside down is to use the side tripod mount, and then tilt the tripod head another 90 degrees to the left. It's a little clumsy, but 90 + 90 = 180 degrees, or upside down.
jdman
Joined: 13 May 2001
Posts: 302
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 3:49 pm

Easy way for back tilt on Anniversary is to use the bottom half of a pacemaker standard. Only problem is you will not be able to have the right hand knob on as it will interfere with rangefinder. Left one will hold it just fine. Have picture, no idea how to post it. Russ
Sjixxxy
Joined: 27 Apr 2004
Posts: 109
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 3:55 pm

Quote:

On 2004-08-18 21:50, Dave wrote:
Does the Anny have a left side tripod screw hole? An easy way to hang a Graphic upside down is to use the side tripod mount, and then tilt the tripod head another 90 degrees to the left. It's a little clumsy, but 90 + 90 = 180 degrees, or upside down.

Hmm. Haven't thought of that. Probably becuase I never take the time to switch my QR plate to the left hole when I want to go vertical and just end up titlting the head by 90 instead.
Dave
Joined: 05 Dec 2003
Posts: 78
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:53 pm

You guys will think this is overkill, but this year I started keeping QR plates permanently on both the bottom and the side of my little Century. I find I use the side socket a lot more now.
glennfromwy
Joined: 29 Nov 2001
Posts: 903
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 9:22 pm

This may be redundant but the old fashioned (and recommended) way to get fall is to turn the camera upside down. And yes, the eccentric lensboards were fairly popular. On one of my Annies, I installed Pacemaker uprights. With a normal or longer lens, I can get fall by dropping the bed, tilting back the standard, then raising it until it's where I need it. As you know, raising it all the way puts the lens plane back to normal. You CAN close the camera with this conversion and keep both tilt screws by shifting the standard away from the rangefinder arm. It will then slide all the way back and the door will close.
Sjixxxy
Joined: 27 Apr 2004
Posts: 109
PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 11:26 pm

Finally got around to makeing the lensboard. Was able to pull an extra 21mm of fall vs a standard lensboard before the shutter & locking arm would collide, and I couldn't see the bed on the GG when it was in the lowest position, so all looks well so far. Only problem right now is that the aperture arm gets pinched between the shuter and metal ridge that holds the lensboard on. It is still moveable, but tight. I think I'll take it back to the drill press and put the registration pin in a different spot so that the arm will be out of the way. I should be good to go then.

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