I have a 101mm Ektar in Supermatic(M,F). I have done the old "Ronnsy" soak and the speeds are pretty close now. The problem is the shutter release lever. When shutter is still wet the release works perfectly. After drying and fireing a couple times the lever sticks in the fire position. Has anyone encountered this and have a Lube solution? I think I need a better "safe for shutter" lube then graphite. I mixed a little graphite with the ronsonol but it still sticks. Thank you in advance to everone here at Graflex.org

There are two attractive lubricants you might try. You can get a "Teflon"-based compound in a squeezable cylinder fitted with a very fine applicator needle. I got mine from Radio Shack, several years ago; the stuff is generally around.

Another is "Dri-Slide," which nowadays you order from Russack Chemicals. It comes in small applicator cans, and other larger containers too. It consists of molybdenum disulfide and graphite in a medium that evaporates, leaving a slippery surface behind. This is a very old product, and I've had excellent luck with it.

The old dried-up grease is causing the stickyness. The trip lever movement is dependent on other levers in the shutter moving. At least the timing gear train is running near correct.
Charles

_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2004-02-01 11:03 ]</font>

It needs another Ronsonal bath. Sometimes it takes a few treatments to clean out all the old dried lube. Hit it again, generously, and be sure to exercise it while wet to help work out the old junk.

I personally, from experience, do not recommend the so called Ronsonol Soak. See my comments on my website at http://www.graywolfphoto.com/presscameras/graphex.html

Graywolf
(FORGET THE QUESTION, I WAS TOO QUICK TO ASK & I FIALED TO SEE THE LINKS!)
I have not read the whole paper yet, but, do you have the referenced figures on the internet?
Thanks for the manual, Harry

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: worldphoto on 2004-01-31 17:17 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: worldphoto on 2004-02-01 11:08 ]</font>

I've never quite had the courage to dunk a shutter in anything, although I know it's done. Is there some reason for preferring benzene to methanol (e.g., isopropyl alcohol)? I've found this a reliable degreasing solvent, and it's more pleasant to work with than "Ronsonol" (and, I dare say, safer too).

Graywolf:

Nice website, and good article. I could not get the illuistrations to print completely, however. All I get is part of the page. Any trick to getting it all?

Thanks

disemjg,

1).Right click the link for the fig or diagram you wnat, select "save target as" and save it to your hard drive.
2).If your system does not have a "print preview" where you can change the printer settings then open your printer's "properties". Under the Page Setup tab(cannon) or Layout tab(epson) is a scalling setting or button=fit to page. Make setting as apporiate.
Charles

I use a graphics program to scale and print pjg extension files to my available sheet size. I use Gimp but Photoshop, etc. is fine.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: worldphoto on 2004-02-01 21:08 ]</font>

It seems the actual soaking(ie. immersion)of the entire shutter isn't a good idea. There is quite a few recommendations to do just that on this site. Obviously careful disassembly and lube of the appropriate points with a "SAFE" modern lubrication product is far superior.Some people might "shudder"(oh brother!) at the prospect of disassembly of these complex devices.I guess that if you dont want to disassemble, application with an eyedropper or syringe would be an alternative to "soaking. As mentioned above the synch contacts are fragile and most definately would be damaged by prolonged soaking. Thanks to greywolf for enlightening me. I would recommend anyone with a "graphex" shutter prob to check his site out BEFORE attempting an at home lubrication. Thanks everyone for your help and experience.

FWIW, I have never damaged anything by using the Ronsonol soak on Graphex, Rapax, Century, or Kodak Supermatic shutters. I know it's a cheap and dirty fix, but it's quick...and it has worked for me. I don't believe paper insulators dissolve in Ronsonol...at least not for me.

Ditto that here, Fred! Just one qualifier: squirt, rather than soak, and move the shutter and synchronizer (if so equipped) through all settings while so doing. Repeat as necessary.

I had one shutter that needed a good 3 day soak, combined with some working & 'swishing', and then a 7 day dry time before it would work... It's hard to tell what previous owners dumped inside these shutters...

Thanks to the folks who explained how to download the drawings from my site to those who asked.

For those who claim to have had no problems from soaking their shutter, you probably don't actually use it much. But if it worked for you I am glad.

After the first time, it only takes a couple of hours to do it right. I do suggest parcticing on a junk shutter the first time though.