Anyone out there with any acquaintance with this film?
I am specifically after anyone using the film for 'pictorial' contrast, gamma 0.6 or therabouts.
I was going to develope in dishes if I cannot get a tank.
The stuff is about £17, (approx $25).

Quote:

On 2003-11-17 00:42, primus96 wrote: Anyone out there with any acquaintance with this film? I am specifically after anyone using the film for 'pictorial' contrast, gamma 0.6 or therabouts. The stuff is about £17, (approx $25).

I thought this was a normal contrast film. Looking at the datasheet it sure looks like it. So if you want normal contrast that won't be a problem. You'll have to work to get anything but normal contrast from it. How many sheets for that price?

I cannot be sure. The pdf file information sheet doesnt say. I think 25 sheets.
I was wanting to use my usual developer, paterson Aculux. Has anyone tried this? Its a normal fine-grain developer.
I have a downloaded massive index from http://www.digitaltruth.com but there are only Ilford developers listed.
If anybody has used them with good results I will try them too. From there I can work with my usual brew to duplicate the same effects.

I think the learning curve is going to be pretty steep just to manage to load and shoot the film properly. However it is a challenge I welcome.

I wouldn't worry about loading the film. The first time you do it you'll panic over openning the boxes. Openning the film holders. Figuring out which side of the film goes which way. The second time you do it you'll be yawning wondering what all the fuss was about.

http://www.butzi.net/articles/filmload.htm

Folks,
I'm new in the Graflex game, and I am having fun reading and posting an occaisional message here on Graflex.org.

Nick, thanks for the link. That spells it all out very nicely!

I can understand primus96's worry about loading film holders, but it isn't as bad as I thought it would be. I recently acquired a Pre-Ann 4x5 Speed Graphic and some film holders. I also bought a box of Agfa Scala B&W transparency film, a 10-sheet box. I took the film box into a changing bag (which was a bit small--I'd recommend a darkroom instead--and did the loading on the kitchen table. I did okay, I suppose, having read the loading portion of Ansel Adam's book, "The Negative," to find what the heck I was supposed to do with those notches...

Whether or not the film is scratched or has crease marks, I don't know yet. (I have only shot one sheet so far!)

--Micah in NC

At college the lecturer has considerable LF experience, though not with a Speed.
He may sell me some spare film holders.
He did show me how to load a holder, with scrap film in the daylight.
It looks like the best procedure will be to wear cotton gloves and feel whether both sides of the film have gone under the notches.
I figure the first box of film wont yeid much in the way of good shots as I figure out the peculiarities of the camera I buy and developement times.

If you know the film & developer combination intimately you can visualise how it will respond in particular situations.

I wanted to try some of the Ilford Ortho so I could dish develope under safelight if I wanted and see how I am loading the holders too.
Once its all sussed i'll use my changing bag and get a developing tank.

If you learn to load under a safelight then you'll have to learn how to load in darkness. If you learn to load in darkness first then under a safelight is even easier.
Sit down with a film holder or two, some scrap film or scrap a few pieces. Place the holders and film in box/envelope as it is supplied on a table or work area. Close your eyes, remove a dark slide, pick out a piece of film, insert it into the film holder, reinstall the dark slide. Open your eyes and check the results.
If you get into a jam during the process, say the darkslide won't go all the way in, then think what could be wrong and feel to see if you can find the problem, open your eyes only when you cannot figure out the problem.
5 to 10 darkloads and you'll be ready to go.
Chalres