Are there any “gotcha’s” when performing surgery on the focal plane shutter flash contacts? In addition to the lens flash contacts being shot, so are the pair in the body itself.

[I downloaded the 20 page Owners Manual and 40 page Service Manual; but have not fully assembled the pages or placed them into a PDF yet; but if a page or two is referenced I can go right to it.]

Thank you!
Dan Schwartz

Hi,
Again, this is something that Fred Lustig in Reno,NV would be able to service.
Regards,
SG

Actually, I prefer to repair <i> this </i> assembly myself...

_________________
Brakes are for Pussies...

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Discpad on 2003-01-31 09:14 ]</font>

Hi,
If memory serves, there was a discussion regarding FP shutter/flash synch a short time ago. I don't know what you have for flash, but I don't think electronic flash can be made to synch with the focal plane shutter. The flash fires instantaneously, far shorter a time than it takes for the shutter curtain to traverse the film area, so the useful flash output would only cover a small portion of the frame. I'm sure that others on this forum know more about this than I, but i think the FP shutter requires special "class F" bulbs that have a slower burn time before reaching full intensity...these "F" bulbs are quite pricey; I'm not sure if fixing the shutter contacts on the body itself is really worthwhile if you are using electronic flash only, as opposed to this more expensive flashbulb route.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: sobahguy on 2003-01-31 10:21 ]</font>

I've seen the same thing from multiple sources, AFA flash duration and the FP shutter. There is, however, a lot to be said for 'making it whole'. The better care we take of these, the more examples will be around when we aren't. I'll quit rambling now.
-ls-

You are correct,of course!! Perhaps I was somewhat misleading in my reply. I was not attempting to dissuade discpad from repairing it or having it repaired; i was just pointing out two disadvantages of flash synch with the FP shutter. Certainly ALOT can be said (and very lengthy arguments should be made) for resurrecting all of these fine cameras. Nothing is more satisfying IMHO than to see a great piece brought back to life and producing photographs again as it was originally born to do!!!

Nothing is more satisfying IMHO than to see a great piece brought back to life and producing photographs again as it was originally born to do!!!
Flattering the moderator, while appreciated, will not get you any favors

Quote:

On 2003-02-03 06:38, Les wrote: Nothing is more satisfying IMHO than to see a great piece brought back to life and producing photographs again as it was originally born to do!!! Flattering the moderator, while appreciated, will not get you any favors

Another misstatement. He responds well to bribes.

OK, while you two are busy kissing each other where you don't wash, how about pointers on how to repair the FP shutter contacts?!

Quote:

On 2003-02-03 11:16, Dan Fromm wrote: Quote: On 2003-02-03 06:38, Les wrote: Nothing is more satisfying IMHO than to see a great piece brought back to life and producing photographs again as it was originally born to do!!! Flattering the moderator, while appreciated, will not get you any favors Another misstatement. He responds well to bribes.

FPS contacts are only good for FP flash bulbs. The FPS repair info contains the required repair knowledge. Check the index you downloaded. Better off to get the lens shutter contacts working.

FPS=Focal Plane Shutter.
Charles

Bert Sanders would be better at answering this, but if the bulbs arent' going off then the only thing I can suggest first to clean all of the exterior contacts. If that doesn't help then you'll need to clean the contacts behind the focal plane shutter and the contacts on the shutter.

Unless you use the T setting and double trip the shutter, (T to O and then O to closed) the focal plane shutte won't be any good to electronic flash. Unlike 35mm there isn't any aperture besides O, that allows the entire film to be seen at one time. So the electronic flash would freeze the shutter and give you a partial picture.

I just rehabbed a "junker" early Pacemaker 45 (a $50 purchase with a split case which I glued, pinned, recovered on the bottom) worth the price alone for the focusing panel) and got the flash sync working by GENTLY bending the contact fingers outward (they were "flat" and would not contact the metal contact that is fastened to the edge of the shutter curtain. By bending, I mean increasing the "hump" by bowing each contact upwards (while keeping each end against the frame!). I also hooked up a test lamp in the flashgun and manually turned the shutter winding knob (with the body release pressed) until the contact make connection and lit the test bulb. I also cleaned each shutter contact with a swatch of very fine emery cloth. Keep in mind that the body release is connected in "series" with the shutter contact and must be tripped before the flash will fire. Also, tripping the shutter with the FRONT/BACK/TRIP selector will not fire the flash.

After all of this, I tested the sync using my Poloroid back using an electronic flash (only works with the "T" setting). Thus, I set the shutter for T and pressed the release twice (once to open, once to close) and it worked perfectly (however, you must not have much ambient light to do this since it's essentially an "open" flash shot.

Then for the final test, I took a photo of my daughter with one of my few No. 31 bulbs at 1/1000 of a sec. (the shutter will only fire the flash at speeds marked in BLACK letters). I used Polapan 100 and picked a guide no. of 70 (not much for such a big bulb). The exposure was perfect, lighting was even, and my daughter saw spots for three days!!!

Quote:

On 2003-05-30 18:53, rhale wrote: "I don't think electronic flash can be made to synch with the focal plane shutter." --snip-- It may be possible to determine a capacitace value with a slow enough rise time to sync the electronic flash with the FP shutter.

The problem isn't the delay, it's the duration of the electronic flash. The FP shutter is a scanner. In its fastest (1/1000) setting, there's an 1/8 inch slit covering 4 inches of film in roughly 32 milliseconds to get a millisecond per slice. That's 32,000 microseconds to cover the whole frame. Someone else can come up with the numbers, but an electronic flash won't come anywhere near that duration.

You need to have a flash slow enough to be lit for the duration of the scan, or a scan window that's wide open at the point the fast flash goes off.

"I don't think electronic flash can be made to synch with the focal plane shutter."

Hmmm .,. I've been bitten badly by Electronic Flash High Voltage so be very careful .,.

It may be possible to determine a capacitace value with a slow enough rise time to sync
the electronic flash with the FP shutter.