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Shutter release tripping arm for pacemaker body release

 
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hsandler



Joined: 27 Apr 2016
Posts: 16
Location: Ottawa, Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 7:36 pm    Post subject: Shutter release tripping arm for pacemaker body release Reply with quote

I have a 1949-ish Pacemaker 4x5 speed graphic with the Optar 135mm f4.7 lens installed. Everything works, but it's missing the metal arm that goes across from the body release mechanism to the shutter release. The rest of the body release mechanism is there; the cable and the metal rod attached to the front standard that moves down when the body release is pressed. I understand the arm I'm missing came in different sizes for different shutters and lenses. Does anyone know the part number of the piece I need or a source? It looks like a simple piece that someone might even machine from a piece of sheet metal as a replacement, but I don't have such tools. I don't need an authentic one. Also, the body release doesn't return easily to the unpressed position; i.e. with the rod moving back up. Although I can feel there is some weak return force being provided somewhere. Could there be a spring missing somewhere, or is there a way to lubricate the cable and mechanism easily?
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3839
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1st. download the service manual http://www.graflex.org/manuals/45-Pacemaker-Speed-and-Crown-Graphic.pdf

The Arm-Manual Trip part numbers are listed on pdf page 29 / manual page 23, item 16.

The instructions for adjusting the cable are in the Front Standard servicing starting on pdf page 17 / manual page 11. The cable to body attachment must match the diagram on pdf page 23 / manual page 17 precisely to have a chance of working properly. The bellows and front standard have to be removed to access the cable attachment. The screws may have worked loose and if the holes are stripped their holes filled, taped and the part reattached. Round wooden tooth picks dipped in wood glue once trimmed to fit the hole work well. Make the pilot hole for the screw while the glue is wet and the dowel the softest.

Removing the cable from the front standard and putting a few drops of light weight oil down the cable is the easiest way to lubricate it. Do not use WD40 or 3in1 oil as they dry out and leave a sticky residue. TriFlow, clock oil and similar oils are fine to use on cameras. A drop the size of a pin head is adequate to too much depending on what part it is applied to.

The front standard studs that the securing nuts are on are staked. Trying to remove a nut without defeating the staking will result in a stripped nut or twisted off stud.

Sometime in the past measurements for the arms were listed. Search the Speed graphic help section for arm or paddle.
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hsandler



Joined: 27 Apr 2016
Posts: 16
Location: Ottawa, Canada

PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. So from some further digging I found the Optar 135mm came in a number 2 Graphex shutter (the shutter number was not marked anywhere, but I found some info relating shutters to stock lenses in an old Graflex catalogue at "South Bristol Views" after a good deal of googling.) So the arm I need would be 31102-P3. Now where to find one.

Thanks also for the body release repair info, but you lost me at "remove the bellows". I have a working camera other than the front body release, and I'm conservative, so not keen to dissassemble much, although I did manage to reverse the front standard to get front forward tilt. I may try a drop of the recommended oil in the cable though.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3839
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Graflex and most Graphic cameras are made of Mahogany. The screw holes strip out easily. Cut the pointed end of a round tooth pick off and you have a dowel that will fit the screw hole. Put some wood glue on the dowel, press it into the stripped hole, cut flush with the body, make a pilot hole, install the screw.

The front standard and bellows have to be removed to access the cable to to body release attach points.

Once you have used a body release to trip the leaf shutter you may find it easier to clock the shutter so that you can trip it with your right thumb while holding the camera steady. A short cable release is also a good substitute for the body release.
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