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Capping Shutter Servicing

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Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3983
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 3:19 am    Post subject: Capping Shutter Servicing Reply with quote

I have my first Capping shuttered camera in for servicing, a 5x7 Compact Graflex. It is assumed to be a 1915 due to the low serial number. I assume that the 3 x 5 1/2 format is built similar. My Graflex SLR servicing information covers the basic camera servicing and I will not repeat it here. If you need a copy leave me your email address in a private message and I will send you a copy. It is advisable to put each parts screws in a labeled separate container for ease of reassembly.
1. Remove the view hood.
2. Remove the ground glass.
3. Disconnect the View Door from the door braces at the door preferred or the body, optional.
4. Remove the aluminum light blocks on the left and right sides of the view opening.
5. Remove the lens and lens board.
6. Remove the front bellows frame to front standard retainer that is attached by 1 screw on each side at the top of the front standard.
7. With the rails fully retracted, slide the front standard to the end of the rails then while sliding the front standard off the rails turn the front upward until it is clear of the rails then slide the front bellows frame from the rear of the front standard.
8. With the H lever in the down position push the bellows back into the body and close the lens door.
9. Lay the camera on the lens door and remove the screws from the camera back. There will be oval or round head just under the view door hinge and beside the film holder slide bar, flat head along both sides of the film holder opening, and either flat head or oval head along the bottom of the film holder opening. Lift the back/view door assembly off the body.
10. Open the lens door and pull the bellows out until the rear frame of the bellows is at the opened position. They should move easily without resistance.
11. With the FPS at T trip the shutter. Help it gently as needed to get the O opening over the film gate and hopefully the capping shutter open.
12. Remove the screws from the rear lip of the bottom plate then turn the camera upside down and remove all the screws from the bottom plate while holding it against the body so that the spring tension does not strip screw holes, then lift the plate off the body.
13. Using a twist tie or similar return the H lever to the set position, wrap 2 or 3 turns of the twist tie and secure just above the finger plate on the H lever then pull to the camera closed position and secure the other end of the twist tie to the slot in the film holder slider bar. The H lever should not move forward more than 1/8 inch.
14. Remove the trip plate if desired.
15. Remove the screws from the rear bellows frame aluminum plate at the body.
16. Compress the bellows and slide them out the slot in the bottom of the camera. They will just fit. It is not necessary to remove the aluminum plate from the rear bellows frame.
17. Turn the camera upright and disconnect the bed braces from the bed/lens door. This is optional but may make the next step easier.
18. Turn the camera upside down and prop up at a slight angle then remove the aluminum light block(s) from the bottom side of the view opening. Each one should have 2 screws, one front and one rear. The one on you right is required, the one on your left is optional.
19. The capping shutter actuating gear can now be seen, it is made onto the mirror frame and runs the top capping shutter curtain roller. The roller end gear may not be visible.
20. Apply light weight grease to the visible gear teeth. Release the H lever and operate it manually its full travel several times to spread the grease out evenly and add grease to bare areas as needed.
21. Close the bed/lens door and lay the camera on its face.
22. With the FPS at O and the mirror in the full up position apply a few drops of light weight oil to the ends of the capping shutter rollers, they are just above and below the film gate guide rollers and slightly deeper.
This camera has 1/8 inch thick brass plates under the leather body covering. Some screws thread into these plates while others go through them. The plates have to be removed to remove the capping shutter components.
The capping shutter lower roller is used to tension the capping shutter similar to the FPS. The tension is set/released by removing the single machine screw in the bottom edge of the small brass plate at the lower rear of the camera body.
23. The tension must be removed from the lower FPS tensioning roller, the shutter curtain removed from the top curtain roller, then the lower curtain roller slipped out the bottom of the camera and the top curtain roller slid out the side of the camera with the wind plate removed to service the FPS roller bushings.
Reassembly is reverse of removal. Check the rear bellows frame aluminum plate for squareness to the frame as it can become bent upward from the spring pressure on it. Check the light blocking material on the front lip of the mirror frame and the lower opening of the camera front. If blistered or uneven the glue has started to fail. Remove the material carefully, scrape the old glue from the material and camera then reattach. Check for proper operation and adjust as necessary.
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.
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