Graflex.org

Jim Hobson · Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Posts: 14 Location: Vernon, NJ

Hi, I'm sort of new to the board. I've been visiting for years, but just recently registered.

I have a 1947 Speed graphic, as far as I can tell from the lens number. I'm currently using a Nikon 150mm, f5.6 W lens. The original lens no longer works.

I've been thinking of getting a new ground glass for easier focusing. I see on ebay a guy making them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180457907351&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

What's your opinion. Do you think one of these would be better than the original? There is nothing wrong with mine, I just thought one of these would work better.
Thanks for any input.

1banjo · Joined: 16 Nov 2008 Posts: 492 Location: kansas

hey Jim
new is always better right??no
look I don't know about his Ground Glass
but your 1947 Speed graphic probably don't have a Ektalite (Fresnel Lens)
to me that is more important then ULTRA FINE Ground Glass would be
the best would be get both
I just got some cheap Fresnel Lens Credit Card size to put on my 23 Century's
about $1. each it makes more even light on the Ground glass & brighter
banjo

Jim Hobson · Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Posts: 14 Location: Vernon, NJ

Ha! Never even thought of that. Fresnel Lens Credit Card.
My Graflex does not have an Ektalite screen.

Just checked online. $1.95 USD.
Gotta try the Dollar Store in town.
Thanks!

45PSS · Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:22 pm Post subject:

The ultrafine glass you referenced will probably be 1/2 to 1 stop brighter than the original at best.

The best thing to do is remove your existing ground glass, wash it in warm water and dish soap and reinstall when dry. Use only your finger tips to rub the glass and hold it by the edges only. When clean let air dry standing on narrow edge or towel dry with a lint free towel.

Upon reinstalling the ground side goes toward the front standard/lens. Install the clips and screws and run the screws down until the clips just touch the glass and are held by the screws. Adjust position of the glass if necessary then tighten the screws 1/2 turn each in sequence around the glass until they are tight. Tightening one side then the other will crack the glass.

Your glass will be about a 1/2 stop or more brighter than it was.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

Dan Fromm · Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2120 Location: New Jersey

About adding a fresnel, fine, wonderful, but put it behind the GG, i.e., between the GG and the photographer. If you put it in front of the GG, i.e., between GG and lens, it will put the GG out of register with the film holder.

Henry · Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:58 pm Post subject:

I tried the inexpensive credit card magnifier thing, and was disappointed. The fresnel lines are very coarse compared with a proper fresnel screen, and it made focussing all the more difficult. I gave up on that approach and simply used the ground glass and loupe until I acquired a Kodak Ektalite screen. I'm still not sure whether the modest gain in finder image brightness offsets the increased focussing difficulty even with this proper fresnel; you're going to see those lines in the loupe no matter what.

Jim Hobson · Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Posts: 14 Location: Vernon, NJ

45PSS: I have been reading the previous posts so the first thing I did was wash the original GG.

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

Who knows what is in your camera. Could be, probably is the original.
I'd be surprised if you are able to find anything finer than an original post war Graflex glass. Brighter maybe, but probably not finer. And then when you add the fresnel screen you'll get to see all those distracting lines in your loupe, and a have a lined sheet of plastic to add to your GG focusing screen experience.
I imagine it depends on the power of your loupe, and the precision with which you are trying to focus. The only advantage for me with a fresnel is having a lightly more even image for composing and getting focus close with just the eye. I have an original in my Rolleicord which I like, sort of.

glennfromwy · Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming

In general, I find the fresnel screen kind of bothersome. I don't like seeing those lines. If you use magnification you should see a pretty good increase in brightness of the magnified image. An inexpensive loupe for film and slide viewing is alll you need. There are overly expensive loupes out there, also. A good one to carry in your pocket is the linen tester, available from Edmund Scientific and the auction site, among others. Cheap and effective.
_________________
Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

Henry · Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 3:14 pm Post subject:

What Glenn said. For a long time I used an inexpensive little 8x magnifier, the kind with the clear plastic bottom. Even rigged it up with a neck "strap," and this worked fine on my Century (this was before I got the fresnel). Then I installed the Ektalite and bought a Toyo 3.8x loupe. I can't say that I gained much, if anything. Live and learn.

Jim Hobson · Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Posts: 14 Location: Vernon, NJ

I already use a Toyo loupe. When I focus, I can never get a sharp image on the GG. It always looks fuzzy and I'm really guessing as to the focus. I do the best I can and my images are pretty sharp. If I can get the image on the GG sharper, I'd just feel better and more positive about my focusing.

I also tried an 8x Agfa and an 8x Peak. It doesn't seem to get any sharper than the Toyo.
Thanks

Henry · Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 8:26 pm Post subject:

45PSS · Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 8:26 pm Post subject:

http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/327016/Office-Depot-Brand-Full-Page-8/

http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/109790/Great-Point-Light-Page-Magnifier-8/

Cut with a plexiglas cutter, 32tpi hacksaw or fine metal cutting jig saw. Must be held firmly and not allowed to flex while cutting as it will crack or shatter.

Fresels will not make the image sharper. Fresnels will not necessarily make the image brighter. Fresnels will smooth out the light so that one can see into the shadows.
_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

You say your negs are "pretty sharp"? With a Nikkor 150 W they should be excellent. The viewing screen should also show excellent sharpness, worth getting exited over, especially target subject at f~5.6. Some of these later high coverage lenses don't do so good stopped down, but from 5.6 to about f~16 it should knock your socks off. My Schneider 150 Symmar-S, probably quite a bit older, and only single coated, projects images on the GG that are easy to see, easy to focus, and reproduce on film exactly as I see them, excellent.
Ground glass is glass after all and someone could have busted it, and put in something not up to snuff. Changing it out would be a cheap way to start chasing the problem, but I'd hold off on adding a fresnel type screen until you figure out if it is the GG, the lens or what? But I can add that even lenses with cleaning marks, small scratches and worn coatings will usually project a a sharp image even though it may be low contrast and flared. Provided the lens elements are seated properly and with the correct spacing and mounting etc...

Jim Hobson · Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Posts: 14 Location: Vernon, NJ

Looking at the GG is not impressive. I can't see a sharp edge on anything I focus on.
The lens I was using is a Nikon 150mm W. Yesterday I tried my 152mm Ektar. There was no difference. BTW: I decided to get the Ektar fixed.

I guess I'll try a new GG after all.
Thirty years ago I worked in a studio. We used a Cambo SC-II. Images from that camera (ones I still have) are tack sharp. I don't recall what lenses we used. That's why I was thinking something is wrong here with the focus quality.

Thanks all.

I've been shooting at f8 through f16