Graflex.org

[Lobalobo]

Although I have seen instructions on this site for adjusting infinity stops, including in an answer to me in another thread (about lenses), I'm not sure I follow them (thus the "for Dummies" in the title of this post). So with apologies in advance, I ask experienced users for some help here.

Just today, I bought a Fujinon 125mm f/5.6 W lens with a Copal 0 shutter to use with my Crown Graphic. The lens that came with my camera is an Ilex 6.5 in an Ilex shutter. (My objective was not a wider lens, though I'm happy with that; I was looking for a sharper lens, and the price was right.) The way I have used the camera so far with the Ilex lens is to pull the bellows out to the infinity stop (which was presumably set for the Ilex when the camera was manufactured), lock it down, then focus using the ground glass. I need to set different infity stops for the wider Fuji lens, I know, but I'm not entirely sure how.

It occurs to me that one way is to set the focus knob to inifity, point at something in the distance, then adjust the bellows until the image is in sharp focus, locking down when I achieve that point. I could then mark the spot and move (or add) the infinity stops there. This makes logical sense to me, and seems simple, but the instructions I found don't seem to recommend this (though I'm not entirely sure what they do recommend, with suggestions such as moving a "yoke" 1/8 of an inch). I'm wondering why the method I just described isn't correct or isn't good. Any suggestions are welcome.

Then there is the question of physically moving stops, or adding stops. Is it a matter of just getting a small screwdriver and loosening the screws (assuming I can find them), or is there more involved. What about buying additional stops? Can anyone suggest where?

Thanks.

[45PSS]

[Lobalobo]

To be honest, I'm both clearer (on some things) and more confused (on others) but am unambiguosly grateful that you took the time to respond. Let me play with the camera for a while to get a sense for what happens when I move various things around and then I'll post again. Thanks again.

[Dan Fromm]

Look, WolfWolf, the risk you face is that if the bed stops are set up for a 6.5" lens then when you put the front standard against them and mount a 5" lens you may not be able to focus it to infinity. Whether this will be a problem depends on your two lenses' flange-to-film distances.

So try the 125 out and see whether it will make infinity with the front standard against the stops and the rail fully retracted. I expect that it won't.

If it doesn't, you have several choices. Relocate the stops appropriately; loosen the screws and they'll slide. Add a pair of stops and postion them correctly for the 125. Cobble up a gadget that will let you square the front standard up with the rails no matter where it is (with Pacemakers it is easy to get a little unintended swing if you just pull the front standard part-way out and lock it in position).

FWIW, I use numerous lenses on my 2x3 Graphics (focal lengths from 38 mm to 480 mm). Since the Kalart RF (each of my Graphics has one) can be set up for only one lens at a time, getting many sets of stops makes little sense. So I have a device, cross-section like an inverted rather flat top hat, that fits in the rails. Pop it in at about the right place, pull the front standard to it, and there I am.

Good luck, have fun, don't think too hard,

Dan

[troublemaker]

Since yawl er on the subject, I found a nice tool for squaring stops a while back at the local hardware store. I have beenusing it non-stop. Ha ha...
Inexpensive, and the small straight edge is movable, and re-moveable for using as a straight edge for rail allignment etc...
General Tool part #444
I posted a couple images if anyone wants to see the little bugger.
I like it because, as you can see in the pictures, it fits the Graphic rails perfectly, and works equally well on 4x5 and esspecially my favorite smaller 2x3's.
http://photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=777803

[Dan Fromm]

So that's what depth gauges are for!

Slight typo in the URL, it should be http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=777803

[45PSS]

Oh, so that's what that thingofamabob is! (both post links work on my machine.)


Lobalobo
There is a factory service manual for the Pacemaker series cameras available at http://www.southbristolviews.com/ via the Graflex Manuals link. The infinity setup is in the Rangefinder section, manual page 5/pdf page 7, section C, paragraph 2b & manual page 6/pdf page 8, paragraph 2c. Infinity stop setup is manual page 6/pdf page 8, paragraph 2 f.

[troublemaker]

Oh my, I apologize for misrepresenting the thingmabob when in actuality it is a thingmagiggy. But, as a thingmagiggy, it is lacking; however, when used as a thingmabob, it is very handy dandy.
On the other hand, and thanks to Charles for posting the link, one needs to know how and where to properly position things in the first place.

Cheers

[Lobalobo]

You have all been very helpful, and I think I get it now. My only question is about setting infinity to my "desired" location. I assume that refers to the 1/8 inch business. In any case, wouldn't it make sense to set infinity to the infinity indicator on the knob? This may be 1/8 inch forward from dead back, but whatever it is, if I set the infinity tabs correctly (making sure everything is square) I can use that setting without concern. Am I right?

[45PSS]

[Lobalobo]

Thanks again. I don't have the camera in front of me (and won't for a bit) so I'll try to reply from memory (and thanks again for all your help). I misspoke (mistyped) when I mentioned infinity on the "knob." What I meant was that infinity is marked on the bed, and so when I turn the focus knob a mark on the rails move relative to the mark. So that's what I meant when I suggested using the infinity mark. This also leaves me a bit confused still with regard to the notion of setting the rails wherever I want. Is it possible to move the rails without the focus knob? If the answer is yes, then of course I get what you mean about setting the rails where I want, but I hadn't noticed any way to move the rails except with the focus knob. But as I write, I realize that I must be wrong about this or how the focus knob works. Sorry if I just misremember and am wasting your time.

[troublemaker]

That is the focussing distance scale. The outboard part is fixed, while the inboard can be loosened and re-alligned etc... Very helpful when finishing up a rangefinder calibration. The proper setting is to have the infinity marks line up when the rails are from 1/16 to 1/8" forward of reward movement limit. (Does that help?) With these infinity marks lined up on the bed and rails, one moves the front lens standard in or out until an object a mile or so distant is in sharpest focus on the Ground Glass viewing screen.
The comment above just meant that regardless of proper set-up, one can change things any ol' way they want based on where the lens standard makes sharp focus and the marks line up on the bed.
However, my question is are you wanting to set infinity only for the new lens, or are you also wanting to calibrate the rangefinder to match the lens?
Regardless of RF calibration, folks use extra stops for supplimental lenses, and also add distance scales to match. They then can do safe-set focussing.

[Lobalobo]

Believe it or not, I now think I am entirely clear on how things work. Not sure I know how I would loosen and adjust the rails to within 1/8" or 1/16" of the rearward limit, but I'm hoping I wont need to, as I think the way it's set now I can already focus past the infinity mark and my camera doesn't have a rangefinder, either top or side (unless I've been staring at it and not seeing it for months), just a viewfinder, which I don't intend to use either. I'm going to use the Crown Graphic as a low-cost substitute for a view camera, which is why I bought the new lens; so it will be ground-glass focusing only for me. The information on the infinity stops is valuable to me anyway, as I hadn't thought about the risk of unintended swing, so it makes sense to adjust the existing stops, to add new ones, or to otherwise block the front standard so as to keep it locked down square. Thanks again.

[PhotoTech]

Being new to the Graphic world, and before I found this most informative website, I set my infinity stops using a 250 yd. target for infinity. Known shorter distance were off on the scale. With the goal of avoiding rangefinder cam fabrication and changes, I wanted a simple bed distance scale when using the 120 or Polaroid film backs with different lenses. It was apparently not to be. Then I realized that the progression to infinity is more apparent compared to smaller formats. Following the above advice, I dialed back the yoke, moved it forward .040" (just under 1/16"), reset the distance scale on the yoke, used a tower, approx. 1000 yds distance, and set the infinity stops for the 127mm and 105mm lenses. The ground glass and the distance scale are now accurate for the 127mm lens and a simple scale marked for the 105mm is reliable. And yes, the 250 yd. target is in focus about a mark width before infinity.
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Chuck

[45PSS]

The moon is an excellent infinity target although it is not always present at the moment you need it. Good to hear you got your camera usable.
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The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.