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Bellows draw on Century and Crown 2x3?

 
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slithy



Joined: 07 Jan 2006
Posts: 16
Location: Denver, CO

PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do the Century and Crown 2x3 have different max bellows draw? I'm looking into long lenses for my Crown, and I've seen a lot of Century users say they are using 203mm lenses. But when I max out my bellows and measure from the back of the lensboard to the film plane, I'm seeing 195mm maximum, so I doubt I could use a 203, or even a tele lens with a 195 bellows draw. Is this right?
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Dan Fromm



Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2148
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2006-03-23 13:12, slithy wrote:
Do the Century and Crown 2x3 have different max bellows draw? I'm looking into long lenses for my Crown, and I've seen a lot of Century users say they are using 203mm lenses. But when I max out my bellows and measure from the back of the lensboard to the film plane, I'm seeing 195mm maximum, so I doubt I could use a 203, or even a tele lens with a 195 bellows draw. Is this right?
195 or so it is. Remember that the lens sits out in front of the board.

About telephotos, remember that telephoto doesn't mean long focus lens. "Normal" lenses, where normal refers to construction, typically have rear principal planes very close to the diaphragm. Telephoto lenses have it in front of the diaphragm, sometimes far in front, so that a tele lens requires less extension to focus at a distance than a normal lens does. The 8"/5.6 Tele-Raptar/Tele Optar, for example, is a tele lens that works on all 2x3 Graphics.
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Henry says he uses his 203 standard Wollensak lens with good effect on his 2x3 Century but I tried one and didn't like putting so much stress on the bellows, however, it worked reasonably well on my Speed 23 which has an inch more draw because of the longer body to accomodate the FPS shutter. One of my Graphic manuals, and other places I have read, say the 10" Tele-Optar (or Raptar is the same) will work on the Crown and Century 23 series cameras though I have not personally tried one, and I am not sure the #3 shutter will allow mounting on the smaller lens board without interference. I have the 8" Tele-Raptar and it sits about where my 135mm Lenses do on the front rails allowing for some close work. Personally I prefer the images I get form the 135 Optar series over the 8" and just crop in a littel or a lot. To use longer lenses around town I use them on my 4x5's with a 120 roll back.
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slithy



Joined: 07 Jan 2006
Posts: 16
Location: Denver, CO

PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the confirmation. I'm looking at a 250 tele lens, that lists its flange/focus distance as 195. So I guess that means that I really can't use it, or only with it focused at infinity.
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1648
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 1:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As troublemaker said, I use the 203 Optar on my Century, but it won't focus much closer than about 15 feet at full bellows draw, which is OK because I generally use it to bring architectural details in closer from maybe ~50 feet away. For this it works great (I don't have to rent scaffolding!).

[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2006-03-23 17:25 ]
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Dan Fromm



Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2148
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2006-03-23 15:42, slithy wrote:
Thanks for the confirmation. I'm looking at a 250 tele lens, that lists its flange/focus distance as 195. So I guess that means that I really can't use it, or only with it focused at infinity.
Um, I used to have a 250/5.6 TeleOptar. It worked on my Century.

I don't understand why people here are reluctant to use their Graphics at full extension. I use a variety of lenses that are just too long, i.e., that require full extension and even then don't alway focus real close, and the modern Graphic bellows don't complain.

If you read my brags and claims (look to the left), you'll see that I say I shoot lenses as long as 480 mm on 2x3 Graphics. Well, I do. The 480 needs both of my Graphics, front to back and both at full extension.
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slithy



Joined: 07 Jan 2006
Posts: 16
Location: Denver, CO

PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess what I would like to get at is, is there a difference between the Century and the Crown? Henry and Dan are both using Centuries. 195mm IS full extension on my Crown, as in it won't go any further. Can anyone compare the bellows extension on a Crown and the Century?
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 3:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duh, just build an extension lens board for the lens and use it. Make a lens board out of sheet ABS plastic. Using ABS cement, glue a piece of ABS pipe to the board that will just fit between the board locks and cut the board out to match the pipe. Cut and glue an end cap to the other end of the pipe and mount the lens. A 20mm, 30mm, or 50mm extension won't put that much stress on the front standard so no need to worry about that. Determine closest focus distance that you plan to use to determine extension length for that lens.
now for the pressing question:
Quote:
I guess what I would like to get at is, is there a difference between the Century and the Crown? Henry and Dan are both using Centuries. 195mm IS full extension on my Crown, as in it won't go any further. Can anyone compare the bellows extension on a Crown and the Century?

From the home page graflex.org we click on CAMERAS and from there we click on Graflex Graphic Model History then on Pacemaker Speed to get a max. bellows length for the 2x3 of 8 3/4 inches(222.5mm). Next we click on Pacemaker Crown to get the max. bellows for a 2x3 which is 7 3/4 inches(196.85mm). Lastly we click on CENTURY and find in the information posted that the max. bellows length is 7 3/4 inches(196.85mm).
Hope this helps.
Charles

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[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2006-03-24 17:31 ]
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1648
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just measured bellows draw on my Century. With bed racked all the way out and bellows fully extended (front standard bracket even with ends of rails), distance from front surface of fresnel to front plane of front standard (i.e., rear of lensboard) is exactly 8 inches, or +/-204mm (203.2 by calculation: 8 x 25.4). From that point, I can stretch the bellows out another 1/8" (3.5mm), and that's the limit!

[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2006-03-23 22:17 ]
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slithy



Joined: 07 Jan 2006
Posts: 16
Location: Denver, CO

PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to everyone for your help. You have cleared up my questions. Charles, thanks for your suggestion on the extension board. My craftsmanship with plastic may fail me, but it is worth a try.
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not get a 4x5 and use a 120 roll back adapter. At least that is what I do sometimes to use a couple of my lenses at or longer than the 2x3's will allow or are not allowed by me...
Which is nice to have the option around town, and sometimes on the road, but not so great as far as keeping things simple in a one body kit.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I make Pacemaker 4x5 boards out of Black Acrylic I cut the blank out of 3/16 thick material using a jig saw, square, and straight edge with c clamps for a saw guide. I then reduce the edge of the inside with a Dremel with a 3/32 straight cutting router bit with the Dremel in a Router edge guide. I take the edge down in 1/32 incriments until the board will just sit flush with the board lock sliders snug. I have not had any problem with light leaks nor is the thin edge prone to breakage unless griped with pliers and given a heafty snap. I suggested ABS as it is easier to work with, easier to find, and easier to get round sections for the extension. An end cap alone may be enough extension for some lens. Be sure to check for viengeting when finished.
Charles.

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Graflex Corp.was a supporter of Rain Forest Devastation.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2006-03-24 17:28 ]
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mav6977



Joined: 07 Apr 2006
Posts: 9
Location: Wichita Falls TX

PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2006 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 1968 Century will max out at
211mm from the film plane to the
back of the lensboard. I use a
203mm Ektar and have never felt
the need for more bellows draw.
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