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Bellows Care

 
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am obviously new to cameras with bellows. I have a Crwon and just picked up a very nice little Century. The bellows on both are light tight, but appear dry, and possibly on the verge of cracking. I am therefore leary of sliding the front standard out and off the rails to clean them until I find out about treating them with something that may help to preserve them until eternity. I do not care much for products like armoural and thelike. I do have saddlesoap, mink oil paste and axle grease. Should I even attepmt this incredable feet (i just realized how difficult it might be to wipe the entire bellows down). I am thinking saddle soap, and or mink oil for the leatherette case, and intend to use a rag with a light coating of WD-40 to clean the rails and metal parts. I used this method on an old beater Rolleicord and it looks pretty good, but I am not gonna fool with this beautiful Century without refering to the board of experts. I certainly do not want to lift the leather covering, nor damage the bellows.
Thanks for the help...
"Troublemaker" Steve
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1468
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2003-11-25 19:30, troublemaker wrote:
I am obviously new to cameras with bellows. I have a Crwon and just picked up a very nice little Century. The bellows on both are light tight, but appear dry, and possibly on the verge of cracking. I am therefore leary of sliding the front standard out and off the rails to clean them until I find out about treating them with something that may help to preserve them until eternity. I do not care much for products like armoural and thelike. I do have saddlesoap, mink oil paste and axle grease. Should I even attepmt this incredable feet (i just realized how difficult it might be to wipe the entire bellows down). I am thinking saddle soap, and or mink oil for the leatherette case, and intend to use a rag with a light coating of WD-40 to clean the rails and metal parts. I used this method on an old beater Rolleicord and it looks pretty good, but I am not gonna fool with this beautiful Century without refering to the board of experts. I certainly do not want to lift the leather covering, nor damage the bellows.
Thanks for the help...
"Troublemaker" Steve

I'm sure ore opinions will follow, but here's mine.
The key there is "leatherette", NOT leather. Use NO oil products on either the bellows or the leatherette. They're vinyl.

For any bellows in already good shape, I agree with most that the best thing to use on them is _Lemon_ Pledge wax. Yes, only the lemon variety!

Personally, for any vinly that is drying and needs help, I use the sutomotive product "Son of a Gun" by STP. Do NOT use Arour All! Far too many people have complained about Armour All and I didn't like what it did on auto vinyl either. I have never had any problems with SoaG and it's restored many vinly products for me including bellows.

As far as application. There's the beauty of it. In a spray bottle, just extend the bellows as far as you think safe and spray it on. It can safely over-spray on anything _except_ the lens!!! Take that off! It not only won't hurt the inside of the bellows but it would probably help restore and protect that too, although I do NOT recommend internal application!

After spreading it around a bit, leave it soak if your bellows is dry.

When I get a dry bellows, I apply a good wet coating, spread it around with a Q-tip, and leave it alone for at least 24 hours. Then I'll wipe it off and give it another spray & spread. I make sure this second coating isn't 'drippy', then I'll compress the bellows, and in the case of a Graphic, close the camera and put it away for a week or so. Then I'll take it out, wipe it down and touch uyp any spots that don't have that shiney look.

Once the bellows is back in shape as much as can be, then I switch to Lemon Pledge, applied the same way using a Q-tip. And it's done...

Good luck...


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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1).Remove lens/board combo.
2).Remove groung glass frame (Graflok).
3).Position front standard on front edge of rails and extend rails to maximun.(Do not cause the bellows to tear)
4).Using a clean cotton towel, clean bellows with Windex. Spray windex on bellows, put hand inside and support area being worked on and clean the exterior surface thoroughly.
5). Throw the ARMORALL in a waste disposal device.
6).Coat the bellows with a heavy coat of Pledge. Use inside support and rub in gently. Set aside and allow to dry for 2 days to 1 week.
7).Repeat if not flexable.
8 ).Repeat Pledge treatment every 15 to 20 days until bellows remail flexable.

The amount of Pledge used should be determined by the dryness or stiffness of the bellows. Bellows may only need to be left extended 8 to 12 hours on additional treatments.

I have not heard any negetive comments on Son of a Gun. Turtle wax also makes a simular product equally as good as STP's.
I have not used either.

Replace the WD-40 with 3 to 5 drops of 3 in 1 oil.

Charles

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[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2003-11-25 20:28 ]
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds good, but that is why i asked. i used to use son of a gun detailing my cars, and swithched to turtle waxes, i think it is, formula 2000. armoural, for lack of a better term, sucks. is that profanity? sorry. WD-40makes an excellent cleaner on metal parts when used sparingly. it is parafane wax based. i cleaned the rails with a small brush with just a littel on it, nd then rubbed them down with a rag, also with a littel WD dampening. THis worked very well, and the rails are spotless, and the front slides much better. definitely will remove the lens, and focussing glass before spraying anything. It looks easy enough to remove the bellows completely. four screw in front and back. Just a thought. I do not really want pledge all over the place, but like you mentioned, it wouldn't hurt anything...
thanks
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, i get it, need to leave the bellows extended. my Century bellows are, on closer look, excellent, but dry.
just got this littel bugger. in comparison to other Graphics i have been looking at, this one only has only the slightest paint wear on the edge of the viewing hood.
a sweet littel deal i think i got.
as for armoural, it has been my experience that it actually promotes cracking rather than preserving. i only use WD as a cleaner, it does not prevent rust either unless items are imersed in it. I distributed both products for ten years here in the harbor.
have anice evening,
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1468
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use WD-40 for so many things that I must have a dozen cans, including the gallon size with spray bottle

I used to prefer a product called CRC-56 (although I'm not 100% sure about the '56' part, maybe a different number?). But I haven't seen it in years... It was better than WD-40 and the best rust-buster I have ever used. All in automotive anyway...

I would agree with Charles. An excellent procedure. I haven't tried to soften a dry bellows with only Pledge, but I wouldn't doubt it works! It's just old habits die hard and for more years than I'd want to count, I've used the SoaG. But the next dried vinyl product I get, I think I'll try just Pledge and see what happens...


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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 5:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CRC #56 spray is a nice product. I do not know where you live but they have a marine line that some industrial supply houses like where i was at carry the product as 6-56. I believe the Siloo company bought them out, or somehting like that. I can get you a phne number if you need a few drums of the stuff. I spent a lot of years detaining my bicycles, and always came back to WD, even for the chain. you can never have enough cans around the house or shop. should i soak my lens shutters in it? (whoa, just kidding).
think i'll post a "why did i buy a Graphic" later if anyone is interested since it seems i have joined an interesting lot.
Steve
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bertsaunders



Joined: 20 May 2001
Posts: 577
Location: Bakersfield California

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neatsfoot OIL, cleans and softens, and you wont need to keep the bellows extended....
leather or vinyl....it has worked on the 250 cameras I have worked on over the past 20+ years....I put it on everything! Bert
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WHERE can one find Neatsfoot oil easily?

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Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 2:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

check leather and harness suppliers. Sure a lot easier than chasing down those neats and squeezing their feet.

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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got tired of hunting for neatsfoot earl so I bought a bottle of Lexol. Works fine.


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bertsaunders



Joined: 20 May 2001
Posts: 577
Location: Bakersfield California

PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2003 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Every shoe store I have ever gone into has Neatsfoot, practically anyone that has shoe polish or boot polish sells it....True Value hardware, Tandy Leather, Western (boots and clothing) retailers all carry it also......Bert
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photocack



Joined: 09 Apr 2004
Posts: 2
Location: detroit, mi

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neatsfoot is the ticket! Use it and you will not go wrong!
As for WD-40, it contains silicone (sand).....If you use it extensively, don't complain when your rails are sloppy or loose. a good gun oil/grease will eliminate that scenerio.
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1648
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For you CRC-556 fans, try any good *old-line* auto supply store---preferably one that caters to the mechanics trade. CRC now makes another product which I prefer because it doesn't have the distinctive odor of the 556; it's called Power Lube and is available in spray cans at your local hardware store. CRC is located in Warminster, PA (Phila. region); their customer service number is 1-800-272-8963.

For my money, you can throw WD-40 in the disposal along with the Armor-All. But, to each his own.
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photocack



Joined: 09 Apr 2004
Posts: 2
Location: detroit, mi

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I DO HAVE ONE REALLY GOOD TRICK THAT I JUST RECALLED BEFORE I LEFT THE LAST POSTING.
GO TO AN AUTOMOTIVE PAINTER'S SUPPLY STORE AND PICK UP A BOTTLE OF "VINYL PREP" OR IT MAY BE REGARDED AS "VINYL DYE PREP". USING A CHEAP PAINT BRUSH & LIGHTLY APPLY IT IN SEVERAL COATINGS AND LET IT SIT UNTIL IT HAS FULLY PENETRATED THE VINYL. THIS MAY TAKE ABOUT A DAY. REPEAT APPLICATION IF NECCESSARY.
ONCE THE BELLOWS ARE PLYABLE........(SHOULD BE SLIGHLY TACKY TO THE TOUCH) PUT A GOOD COATING OF VINYL PROTECTANT (BRUSH ON) AND LET SIT OVERNIGHT.......(EVERYTHING NEEDS ITS BEAUTY SLEEP, YA KNOW). WIPE OFF EXCESS(IF ANY) AND YOUR IN BUSINESS!
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