Graflex.org

[djv]

I've been looking online for the past several hours researching this camera a friend of mine brought to work, and I cannot for the life of me figure out what this "thing" on top of the rangefinder is. It appears to have a lightbulb inside, and appears to be missing something from the front where the 45 degree angle is. I'm assuming there was a mirror there at some point, seeing as there's a lens that points down into the rangefinder in that location, but I can't see any reason to pump light into the top of the rangefinder like that. I'd appreciate it if someone could enlighten me a bit on the function of that light. Thanks!

[Jim23]

That is a "Focuspot." It is for focusing in total darkness or very low light. When battery voltage is connected to the terminals, it projects a pair of light beams back out through the rangefinder windows. The beams each project an image of the filament in the lamp. As the camera is focused, the two images overlap (converge) when the subject is in focus. There was a special cord that went from the focuspot to the "Battery" terminals on the flashgun (3 or 4.5 volts DC).

[djv]

Ah, that's a neat feature, almost like the AF Assist beams some digital cameras have today. I guess my next question would be just how much of it am I missing up front there? Was it just a mirror with a couple little brackets holding it in place, or was there more to it? I might try to rebuild it since the guy it belongs to had mentioned the possibility of giving it to me because he never has and probably never will use it.

Thanks for the info!

[45PSS]

I've only seen pictures and from yours the missing parts are:
1)Graflite 2273 or equivelent 3D cell flash
2)Household(male) to Bipost(female) connector cord.

Connect 4.5 to 6 VDC to the two brass pins at the top rear, polarity not important, and observe front of rangefinder-if light is comming out its working as designed, try focusing; if no light then remove cover and test/replace the bulb as needed.

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[alecj]

DJV, from the pics, which are not too bright and would benefit from more light on the subject, it would appear that the front plate is on the Focuspot. If the internal parts have not been disassembled, the unit is complete.

To operate it, first you need a power source - namely a bulb flash battery case, either 2 or 3 cell Graflite which has a battery output, and the proper cord (note the double post cord is NOT the proper cord for this). Rather, the female connector on the cord is very similar to older elec. razor cords (some people even substitute them - shortened, of course). By comparing, you can easily see the contacts of the Focuspot are much larger than the sync outlets on a double post shutter. Those original cords are still around, but you'll have to hunt them - they were all made by Kalart AFAIK - I haven't seen any by other manufs.

In use, after the unit is plugged up, the silver ring on the back of the Focuspot is turned (that is the on/off switch). The unit projects a light back out the rangefinder, and when the two circles intersect on a subject, it is in focus.

These are fun to use in low-light situations. I remember seeing them used in nightclubs (uh oh, that dates me!) where the camera girl (person) used them to photograph patrons, for a price, and prints were delivered as you left (lots of "wet negative printing" there).

Les says they were designed to permit photography inside wings during WWII (he's more qualified on that since he was there - I wasn't).

Hope that helps.



[ This Message was edited by: alecj on 2004-03-20 11:57 ]

[djv]

Actually, the front plate is missing. Sorry about the quality of the picture, It was taken in a hurry and I compressed the heck out of it in Photochop for posting. There appear to be two small screwholes at a 45 degree angle on that end, one at the top, and one at the bottom. The bottom one may pose a bit of a problem, since it's currently occupied by what appears to be the stump of the original brass screw. The same goes for the screwhole that used to hold the Focuspot to the bracket it's sitting on. Apparently this camera has had a hard life.

Despite the damage, it has what appears to be the ever elusive graflok back. The one I have dosen't have the same back described in the FAQ, as it dosen't have the flash sync posts. Instead it has a swing up rear peepsight that's way out of line from the original one still on the top of the camera. I'll get some more shots of it in better light when I go back to work today.

[alecj]

Yuk. That isn't good news. It will be easier to find another unit to replace that one, than find those parts. I've never had mine apart, but there is obviously a mirror that goes in there somehow and a cover plate with the Kalart name on it which covers the open spot.

Chances are the back you have is the result of an upgrade, and that is good. You can use lots more accessories with that back. I assume the flash sync posts you're describing were for the focal plane shutter. Does your lens have sync? If so, that is far better for flash that those body contacts were. It really sounds like you've got a "frankenstein" item here [a little bit from here, a little bit from there]. Nothing wrong with that - just gives it more "character".

Focuscope units are available from time to time. You can try Midwest Photo, Pacific Rim or Stephen Shuart. Fred Lustig probably has new ones, but that might cost more than the camera.

[djv]

Can you point me in the direction of what one looks like when it's not ripped to shreds? Maybe I can fashion a rough likeness of it and get it all working and almost looking like the real thing. I would need to tear open the rangefinder and clean it out anyhow.

One could argue that these things look a bit Frankenstien-ish to begin with, but this one is definitely "special". Here are some pics:

http://sailfish.exis.net/~djv/msgpics/

[EDIT] - Never mind, found it: http://members.lycos.co.uk/jolommencam/focuspot/

Looks like I'm also missing some kind of tube from the back of the rangefinder, and there seems to be the stump from a broken off tube in there.

[EDIT, take 2] - That thing about the stump from a focuscope stuck in the rangefinder? Yeah, nix that, got it out. It was just the small threaded bit of it, snapped off and swimming around in the rangefinder.

[ This Message was edited by: djv on 2004-03-20 10:47 ]

[t.r.sanford]

I agree that you'd be better off looking for a new "Focuspot" than attempting to repair yours. They are not unheard of on eBay, and I, too, have seen them occasionally listed by used large-format dealers.

It might be easier to make a new one from scratch, using one of the new, tiny halogen-lamp penlights. You'd need to install it in a mount holding a small simple lens of short focal length with the lamp filament at the focus, to collimate the beam; and a right-angle mirror or prism, unless you want the thing to stick straight up (also feasible).

An advantage to doing this is that it would have its own power supply onboard, so you wouldn't need the Graflex flash handle to hold the battery.

The tube you report missing from the back of the rangefinder is one of several accessories (i.e., you don't really need it, but it's helpful). There were two. One simply is a metal tube about 1-5/8 ins. long and 3/8 ins. in diameter. The other is a little Galilean telescope. Each terminates in a fairly coarse thread that screws into the bezel of the rangefinder eyepiece.

The optical version, called a "Focuscope," features two tubes, one sliding inside the other and held at full extension by an internal spring. Earlier posts on this subject suggest that this is a useful safety feature that can minimize the danger of getting poked in the eye, though I've not had any trouble with the rigid tube. The magnification certainly is useful.

There was an alternative illumination system for Kalart rangefinders. It, too, screwed into the eyepiece bezel (less convenient than a "Focuspot" -- you put it on when you needed it, and took it off afterwards). I've seen a couple (one recently on eBay), but they were not named. I've also seen references to something called a "Focalite," which may be the same thing.

Incidentally, you can use the Kalart rangefinder by looking down into the "Focuspot" port on the top of the housing. I once saw a magnifying eyecup made for this purpose, though I don't know if it was a commercial product or home-brewed. It struck me as a good idea, though I've not yet explored making one.

Also incidentally, Kalart made a device called the "Rolleispot" for "Rolleiflex" and "Rolleicord" cameras with 75mm. lenses. It was a flat metal box with a tripod screw that attached it to the bottom of the camera, and a spring-loaded lever with a knob that rode against the front of the camera when you focused. It, too, worked very well, and was extremely helpful when working in low-light conditions.

If you wanted to, you could restore the FP flash synch terminal by drilling out the recess at the top left of the "Graflok" back that receives the rear viewfinder sight when folded down. The original back had a bipost synch terminal there; each post had a springy contact inside, and the curtain was equipped with one metal contact per slit. As the curtain traveled, this contact wiped past those on the posts, closing the circuit and firing the flash just before the slit moved across the film

I concur with the earlier post that FP synchronization probably is not of great value today; the flashlamps are not easy to come by, and tend to be expensive. You are fortunate to have the "Graflok" back.

[djv]

Two bits of good news:

1) The camera is oficialy mine now, my friend just gave it to me.

2) He also said he has the pieces that went to the focuspot unit, along with some other accessories. He apparently picked this camera up, along with a Leica and a Speed Graphic view cam as a boxed lot at a thrift store for get this... $10!

As soon as I can get my hands on a film back and some film for it, I'll start trying to get some pictures with it.

[alecj]

Looks like a neat camera. I'd remove the folding eyepiece and use the original one for more accuracy in framing handheld shots using the frame finder.

That also looks like a good lens. One note here: the shutter for that lens was designed during a period when there was no electronic flash for the masses. It is essentially a bulb flash. There have been several threads here, however, on how to use that shutter with an electronic flash [something you'll be interested in doing shortly after you discover the current going rate for flashbulbs], so learn to use the "Search" function to find them.

A 2 cell older Graflex flash will mount directly on the rangefinder [the 3 cell battery cases are very expensive now], or the newer Graflite units will mount there using some easily available hardware [a mounting plate and 2 clamps].

You mentioned that you thought there was more to the Focuspot. I think I see part of the Kalart bracket which was used to help mount the Focuspot to a surrounding rangefinder bracket [which your camera doesn't have]. That isn't important at all since the bayonet connection of the Focuspot to the Rangefinder [plus one or more screws for added protection] will do nicely. It's good to hear you'll get the other parts.

Once you have a battery case, you can look for a cap that was made to fit on those battery cases [instead of the reflector] which will permit you to mount a small electronic flash on the top of that battery case. That makes for easy flash use of your camera. Pacific Rim sometimes has them. Also, Lumedyne used to make them [don't know about current availability].

You are definitely hooked now! Welcome to the club.

[45PSS]

Now that it is yours, remove the lens/board assembly and set aside; fold over the infinity stops (if possible) and slide the front standard to the end of the rails and lock, then turn focusing knob until the bellows are extended to their limit, DO NOT TEAR THEM.
Now remove the ground glass (focus) panel.
Put a small size 40 watt light bulb in a portable socket that you can run inside the bellows without touching them. Now take the camera and light assembly into the darkroom and turn the lights off and turn on the portable light and run it inside the bellows from rear to front. ANY slight hint of light comming thur the bellows is a leak that needs to be fixed before running any film, correction ruining any film in the camera.

With camera set up as described above, spray one side of the bellows with windex, using a clean cotton towel, clean the exterior with one hand while supporting the area from the inside with the other hand. When all 4 sides have been cleaned then spray with lemon pledge (yes, the funiture polish) and rub in gently.
Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[djv]

Thanks for the tips on cleaning the bellows, I was wondering what I could do to keep them in good shape. I was thinking of using Armor All or some other vinyl cleaner, but if pledge is good for the pros, It's good for me. I've also got a Polaroid Automatic 100 Land camera I've started working on, and I'm much less confident of the bellows on that camera than I am of the one on the Mini SG, so all this info will definitely come in handy! The bellows on this camera actually look fairly new, almost like it's been replaced within the last couple years or so. If you hear anyone lamenting that their wife/kids/whoever put their cameras in a box of stuff to be given to a thrift store in VA, you've never heard of me.

Is there a preferred cleaning method for the exterior of the camera body itself, or will pledge work there too?

I'm also going to try cleaning out the lens shutter mechanism with some zippo fluid, per a post I saw on this board, as the 1 second exposure setting tends to be more like 2 or 3 seconds. Do you have any other helpful tips on that bit of the restoration work?

Last question, I promise: How daunting is the FP shutter mechanism to work on? the rubberized material seems to be in good shape, but is out of line just a hair. the slits for the "c" and "d" settings are skewed to the left quite a bit, with "d" acually being far enough off to show the wood on the left edge.

Thanks again for all the info, I know how hard it can be to deal with newbies, my job exposes me to the worst of the worst on a daily basis!

[t.r.sanford]

For the exterior leather, I've generally done well with ordinary shoe care products, specifically black dye and black wax polish.

[45PSS]

Lemon Pledge list leather as one of its surfaces that it works on.
A repair manual for the Anniversary speed should be accurate enough for the focal plane shutter as they would be simular if you can't find one for the Mini. A drop of TriFlow, watch oil, or simular very light oil about the size of a straight pin point (less is more usefull) on each end of each roller and the gear piviots may be enough to get it winding correct. Check the top roller for the curtain comming loose. You will need to remove the back to accomplish this, pay close attention to what size screw goes into what hole.
Charles

_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2004-03-22 18:44 ]