Graflex.org

[vic valis]

--Continued From "Tension Knob"--
Okay, the camera is in very salvagable condition, an I'd bought it with restoration and use in mind. The leather is largely intact but very badly scuffed: easy enough to clean up and condition and refinish if necessary. Except for the tension knob broken off, most of the internal parts look like they are there (although a shutter curtain roller did fall out when I was opening the back). The curtain itself is iv very bad condition... brittle and wrinkled and maybe disintigrating. So my first question is, is there any suitable material out there for making a new shutter curtain? I've seen shutter durtain and bellows material sold at one site, but do not know if it is sold in wide enough pieces. Secondly, the chemically blackened brass parts look grayish. Originally would they have been gray or black (an improvement the Anniversary graphic is supposed to have is no grayed parts, I think I read elsewhere on this page). Third: what sort of finish was used on this camera's wood parts? I'm a pretty decent cabinetmaker in my spare time so reproducing the appropriate finish should be easy? I'm sure I'll come up with other questions as I clean up the little beastie, but this is a start. Ideas or suggestions always appreciated.

jeff

_________________
That money talks,
I'll not deny.
I heard it once;
It said "good-bye."

[vic valis]

Okay, I have gone a good way towards taking the camera apart and cleaning it out... the curtain is unsalvagable, but I'm contemplating making a replacement if I cannot find a camera to canabalize for parts. So I will narrow my above questions down to one or two and go from there: Anyone out there with any information on the finish used for exposed metal on the "top handle" Speed Graphics. It looks like a chemical treatment of some sort, but cannot figure out which. Looks dark gray, so I think it may be a grey phosphate finish like that used by the military. Can anyone conform this? And if so, can anyone recommend a place that can apply the treatment? I have the formula and instructions, but if it's not photographic chemistry then it makes me nervous.

jeff

_________________
That money talks,
I'll not deny.
I heard it once;
It said "good-bye."

[Les]

I'm not aware of the process, only what the Graflex catalog said at the time, " oxidized metal work" in the 1919 catalog and "patinaed silver plate" from a Review of graflex, by richard Paine quoting another catalog. I suggest they be cleaned with soap and water and given a coat of wax and leave the rest.

[vic valis]

I did some scrubbing to get some crud off the external shutter controls, and it looks like parts were painted over at some point in the past. There is a second yellowish-brown layer that appears to be poorlu aged varnish, and beneath it a definite grayish chemical finish to the metal. Cleaning and re-varnishing sounds like the way to go with most of the parts but the focusing rails... looks like someone carved a focus scale into the wood of the inner drop-bead and the rails themselves, then sanded them off, painted them over, then later taped the marks on the bed over with surgical tape. I would call it patina if it didn't look like hell... a distraction from the rest of the camera,I will definitely have to refinish the rails and drop bed. Thanks.

jeff

_________________
That money talks,
I'll not deny.
I heard it once;
It said "good-bye."

[Les]

The '19 catalog also says the wood work is "ebonized" which is about a specific as saying the food is "all natural"

[vic valis]

Indeed, "ebonized" does sound like one of those phrases that could mean anything. Possibly the wood was japanned, or else a black aniline dye or even india ink was used. It is not finished with shellac (does not turn milky when in contact with alcohol), but proably varnish. Simpler to manufacture that way: install the parts, wood and treated brass, and then both varnish at the same time. It's a good working theory at least.

jeff

_________________
That money talks,
I'll not deny.
I heard it once;
It said "good-bye."

[Les]

My 1911 5x7 Speed doesn't show any sign of varnish on the metal work-- just a semi matte finish. and I like the idea of aniline dye or india ink as both get into the cellular structure rather unlike pigmented ink that sits in the pores.

[vic valis]

The varnish may have been added after manufacture... this camera has been through a lot. Aniline dyes and stains were very commonly used in furniture manufacture at the time this camera was produced, so it's not unlikly it was used in the manufacture of wood cameras. Water-based, so it soaks in. Still trying to figure out the finish on the brass... gray phosphate was used by the military at the time, but on steel. Brass was submerged in a solution of copper carbonate and ammonia water, but I don't know what this formula was called or if it produces the correct gray. Wow! This is why I get into these restoration projects! Because I learn something new every time!

jeff

_________________
That money talks,
I'll not deny.
I heard it once;
It said "good-bye."

[Les]

remember its oxitized SILVER PLATE, not brass. yes they silver plated and then tarnished them. Once in a while you'll find some idiot who 'discovers' the wood underneath and decides to 'restore' it to its naked wonder.

Some actually discover the silver plate, but most just have the wire wheel blow right through it on the way to gleaming brass.

[bertsaunders]

Two weights of shutter material avail, in large sheets, and I have instructions for making a new curtain, and source for material---email me for details!
>>Oxidized silver plated brass<<,
was used exclusivly,until they started painting the hardware grey, then later black! Have asked many knowledgeable folks over 20 years, and still, never a clue for the way it was applied, or the formula! >Never< saw a factory application on any of the Graflex or Graphic cameras that was finished off with a varnish or clearcoat! Even the View camera hardware was painted, with mostly hammertone type finishes, the Crown View looks like baked on brown paint???? Very small amount of woodwork showing on the top handle speed, and a flat black enamel primer dups that perfectly! As suggested, leave the metal work alone, if you want to preserve the original finish!
bsaunders1@bak.rr.com
Bert

[vic valis]

Well Les, don't drum me out of the club, but I'm one of those guys who found an old camera that was FUBAR on the outside, and pulled off the peeling, cracked leather. It is a pre-anniversary with the wood drop front... applied veneer to the metal plate in the front and to the viewing hood. The thing is a work of art... I've had people think it was a piece of wood sculpture until I opened it up. Only problem was the bellows, which is held together with black silicon gasket sealer. It gets used frequently though, for portraiture,where all that is needed is the ground glass.
However, the top handle camera I'm working on here looks pretty good externally, more than halfway salvageable witout replacing everything, which is why I'm restoring the appearance... it's the innards that are going to need a total going-over. And this is why I appreciate all the info I can get, and hearing all the opinions.

jeff

_________________
That money talks,
I'll not deny.
I heard it once;
It said "good-bye."

[Les]

Not to worry... Don't have a drum!

[vic valis]

I understand the thought... after looking for a flash, I've grown to dispise the whole concept of the "lightsaber." I'm still looking into options for the focus rails, but it's a holiday so I don't expect to hear back from anyone today. Now I just need to find replacements for the tension setting knob (broke off the tension roller assembly, so I need to replace that too).

jeff

_________________
That money talks,
I'll not deny.
I heard it once;
It said "good-bye."