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Mark JW
Joined: 31 Aug 2002 Posts: 19
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Posted: Fri Sep 13, 2002 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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(oops i got that stupid tank again. Graflex.ORG, not .COM )
Are there any special tricks or details that I need to know in order to make a wood lens board? |
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bertsaunders
Joined: 20 May 2001 Posts: 577 Location: Bakersfield California
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Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2002 2:24 am Post subject: |
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A drawing would help....I have a sketch for several models, with suggested material!
contact me at
bsaunders1@bak.rr.com
Bert |
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Les
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI
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Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2002 2:38 am Post subject: |
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That depends on the tools you have at hand, and which lensboard you wanted to make.
For my own use I make three different lensboards.
A. quick and dirty: use black matte board and an exacto knife. Draw diagonals to find the center then trace the threads of the lens for the hole. I stab with the exacto knife to make the hole (connect the dots) Yes this does work with a Pacemaker cameras, just use one thickness of matte board.
B. Quick. Use Baltic birch plywood. Now I have access to a table saw, and router so making these
are fairly fast. You could get by with a circular saw or a *****(hee hee, make that scroll) saw, but will need the router for the rabets, or a damn good rabbet plane and a fworkbench. good for Anni-speeds but hard for Pacemakers.
C. Graflex quality. This entails making three pieces out of mahogany with small rabbets and grooves. A very good dado head and a table saw is a necessity. Good black laquer is hard to find, and takes time to finish. The others I leave raw as a reminder that I really want a good board someday.
I've never tried to stampe a new lensboard out of sheet metal.
[ This Message was edited by: Les on 2002-09-13 19:59 ] |
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Mark JW
Joined: 31 Aug 2002 Posts: 19
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Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 12:14 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Bert, Les.
It so happens that I have a table saw, and a router.
I also have a realy nice, antique rabit plane that works like a dream (it needs a little sharpening though). Sounds like a nice rainy afternoon project.
Mark |
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Les
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI
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Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 4:04 am Post subject: |
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I talked with old woodworkers. "A well tuned plane will be faster,more enjoyable, and cheaper than a router" they told me. And they were right, my Stanley Bedrock #4, 5 &6 were all cheaper than a router. I fell in love with them.
But what the old timers didn't tell me, was that without a good workbench (workmates don't count) they will be difficult to use.
A well tuned rabbet plane will work well, just have a very sturdy place to anchor the wood or you'll be more frustrated than a press photographer at a Mercury 7 launch with empty holders. |
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Mark JW
Joined: 31 Aug 2002 Posts: 19
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Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: |
On 2002-09-14 21:04, Les wrote:
my Stanley Bedrock #4, 5 &6 were all cheaper than a router. I fell in love with them.
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Not at todays prices they won't be
Are you thinking of selling those bedrocks?
Seriously. They are right. A good work bench is a must. I throw a couple of #75 sand bags across the bottom legs of my workmut and it pretty much stays in place.
[ This Message was edited by: Mark JW on 2002-09-15 15:37 ] |
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Les
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI
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Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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I wrote:
my Stanley Bedrock #4, 5 &6 were all cheaper than a router. I fell in love with them.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You wrote:
Not at todays prices they won't be
I disagree. Each one of those planes cost less than my 3hp Porter-Cable Speedmatic. something I can't say for my Lie Neilsen's.
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Mark JW
Joined: 31 Aug 2002 Posts: 19
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