Graflex.org

Borgatt · Joined: 12 Nov 2010 Posts: 8

I picked up an RB at a camera show yesterday, the glass was a little foggy, but otherwise everything seems to be working.

I did a bit of detailing, removing the ground glass to clean it and mirror, clearing out the dust and shining up the lens.

After getting it all back together everything looked much better, until I tried to cock the shutter from 3/4 - 3/8. I heard a snap and then about two seconds of ominous "thwap thwap thwap". None of my cleaning involved the shutter mechanism, I cleaned the mirror without removing it.

After removing the back panel, it appears as though the curtain material became detached from the bottom roller and spooled around the top.

I have been able to carefully unspool it from the top roller, and it still looks to be ok, no tears or wrinkles. I can get it to wrap around the bottom spool as well.

So what I need is to figure out how to reattach it to the bottom spool, then reset the proper tension so that it works again. I've read some articles and posts that point me towards the little bolt next to the tension knob, but if anybody has a step by step recommendation, as well as ideas for what I should use to reaffix the material to the bottom roller (there is some black spots left on the roller, but otherwise it looks like whatever glue was there just gave up) left, but it looks like the whole , I'd be greatly appreciative.

If there is a post that explains this that would work too, I did some searching but was unsuccessful.

45PSS · Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081

I got an email address off your web site and I am sending instructions to you via it.

It is rare that the curtain will become detached from the tension roller. Its possible someone had it off and did not reattach it properly/adequately.
The curtain should be 67 to 75 inches long. It should have an aperture larger than the film plane, a 1 1/2 inch, a 3/4 inch, a 3/8 inch, and 1/8 inch aperture with 6 to 8 inches of solid cloth either side of these apertures.

I use latex contact cement as it is easy to clean up excess and it holds very well for all body covering and curtain bonding. Solvent based contact cement can be used but one must exercise extreme care in using it. Solvents can/will damage the curtain coating and the body covering.

Which model and what format?

Borgatt · Joined: 12 Nov 2010 Posts: 8

got it thanks, that's a big big help. 4x5, I think its an earlier model, but I don't have it here at work (thought about bringing it but would probably be frowned upon).

Borgatt · Joined: 12 Nov 2010 Posts: 8

Heres a link to some pics. both of the camera and where the shutter detached from the spool

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1p8v7zbneqwfafj/AAByCtV7qCO01MTnqF8DJYTaa?dl=0[/url]

45PSS · Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081

If the rest of the curtain is wrinkled like the end it may be full of pin holes.

I'm not familiar with that model by sight, what does it say on the shutter speed plate?
The serial number should be stamped into the top of the view hood door behind the view hood. Some early models have it stamped into the lip around the view opening which is very hard to see.

Borgatt · Joined: 12 Nov 2010 Posts: 8

It's a 5x4 auto graflex , serial looks to be 31374. Rest of fabric looks good.

As far as glue to reattach, contact cement? I also have shoo gloo, which is designed for rubber and fabrics.

Once I get it reglued and its set, where do i start with tensioning the spring? I understand the instructions as far as removing the plates and turning the spring, but I dont know how many turns it unwound, so am not sure where a good starting point it.

45PSS · Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081

I use Weldwood Non Flammable latex contact cement. Its only drawback is the smallest container it comes in is quart for $18 at home improvement and hardware stores.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-32-fl-oz-Nonflammable-Contact-Cement-25332/100174435
Attach pieces while glue is wet, align, use. Dries to hold in 15-30 minutes, excess rubs off with your fingers, difficult to separate parts when cured.
I have never used ShoeGoo. Elmer's E1014 http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E1014-Contact-Cement-1-Ounce/dp/B001A44JPC/ref=sr_1_2?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1415824434&sr=1-2&keywords=contact+cement is a good choice also.

The initial starting tension should be 8 to 10 turns of the tension roller shaft end. 20 turns is excessive and indicates there is a problem with the curtain movement. Most cameras operate properly with 8 to 12 turns.

Borgatt · Joined: 12 Nov 2010 Posts: 8

Awesome, thanks so much. This information is enormously helpful. It may be a blessing that it broke so early after getting it, I have learned a ton about the inner workings of this camera, and as a gadget guy, that's not a bad thing.

Ill let you know how it goes!

45PSS · Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081

31374 is probably around 1910 give 2 or 3 years, take 1 or 2. No accurate record was kept with date information.

The body is covered in XXX Moroccan leather, the bellows and view hood are leather also. The hardware is silver plated brass. Using any type of metal polish on the hardware will remove the very thin layer of silver leaving shinny brass. Neatsfoot oil works well for keeping the leather soft and looking good. Use sparingly.

Borgatt · Joined: 12 Nov 2010 Posts: 8

Success!

Took a bit of figuring, but I have a functioning shutter curtain again.

Ill probably have to do some adjusting, once I learn a bit more about how to measure exactly how long its opening for. But it is locking and tripping across all ranges of tension and aperture length, which is 100% more effective than being detached from one spool and hanging out the back of the camera.

Thanks again for your help!! I have had one of these on my wishlist for years and my heard almost broke when I heard it unspool.