Graflex.org

[trink5.0]

How are you guys drying your prints?

I have been setting them facing up on my bench downstairs, but I get way to much lint stuck on the prints.

I remember hearing about using a nylon screen and setting the prints emulsion down, but don't you get lines from the screen on them?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

_________________
"Shoot pictures, Not People"

[RichS]

For years (decades) I used a simple blotter book. Worked great even if it did take a while to dry them. Last year I bought a new book. First set of prints stuck to the sparator sheets! I wasn't thrilled...

Then I bought drying screens (too lazy to make them). They work great until I thought I'd try them emulsion side down. Got holes in the emulsion... Back to emulsion side up. But that was with POP paper which is a bit different than enlarging paper. Now I get horribly curled edges on the paper...

Years ago I also used a home made drying box similar to the commercial units. A curved sheet of polished metal, heated from the inside of the box. Worked great and I don't know why I haven't used it in years?

Then, I bought a dry mount press. I don't know why? Maybe because everyone talks about them? Maybe it hit me at just the right time (buying binge) and I jumped on it without thinking? But it should do a good job at taking the curly edges out of the prints dryed on the screens. I haven't used it for that yet, but that's what everyone else (it seems) does.

[disemjg]

That question brings back memories. Before I switched to RC paper, I used a two sided print dryer; the one I had could handle two 8X10s per side, and I seem to remember that it took about 5 minutes per side to dry them enough to go to the next pair. I'm not sure that anyone is still making such dryers, but I've seen them offered used at my local dealers so you should be able to scrounge one up if you want to try this approach.

You could also dry a few prints on ferrotype plates, assuming that you wanted the super gloss finish. Those may be a challenge to find these days.

Anyone ever try ferrotyping an RC print? Maybe I'll have to try that next time I get a chance.

[ This Message was edited by: disemjg on 2005-10-17 17:32 ]

[disemjg]

And a quick check shows that B&H has a good selection of the print dryers, with some models less than a hundred bucks. They also list the ferrotype plates, but only as drop ship or special order items.

[troublemaker]

You don't want to be ferrotyping a RC paper because of the platics involved... Gloss RC is pretty glossy to begin with, so not necesarry. The most gloss I have been able to achieve is having a clear UV lam placed over a print mounted on black gator board. Adds a nice depth to color prints.
As far as FB papers, air drying should be sufficient. Touch them as littel as possible and try not to pinch the emulsions with tongs (esspecially if toning later).
I like to lay my prints face down on clean blotter sheets and mop excess water off the back with a very clean sponge and then lay them face up to dry on clean sheets. when done printing I place them in on the darkroom counters when finished with the session of printing as it is a fairly dust free place. If I had screens I would use them. Toned prints, depending on the toner and whether or not I am dying them or splitting with another color later, do not get wiped and simply air dry. Beware of used blotter sheets, they can easily stain prints and break down fast leaving lint on paper. I too have expereinced some bad things with leaving prints in a blotter book to dry. Whatever waxed paper they are using now does stick to some papers and will completely ruin gloss prints. I now only use the sheets to facilitate initial excess water and let the print dry and curl as it may and let them flatten later in a archival box or with slip sheets in a dry acid free art book etc depending on size. RC prints are easy, just wipe off excess water, and air dry on any kind of rack. I use coat hangers on top of an old lamp shade with a 60 watt bulb and once dry a soft cloth will wipe off any dust or lint.
One of these days I will get some screens...
It has been recomended to me that if I need a better dust free place I might make a portable rack and dry my prints and film in my shower but haven't got that desparate yet...
Stephen

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-10-18 17:02 ]

[glennfromwy]

I have the best results just squeegeeing (is that a word?) both sides well and hanging by a corner. I alternate corners about every 15 minutes until they feel dry to the touch, then place between clean blotter sheets and put a heavy weight on them overnight. The humidity here is low and they dry fast. This procedure is for fiber prints. For RC, I just squeegee both sides and lay them on the table, face up. They dry in a matter of minutes. If you get a little dust or lint stuck to a print, just give it a good rub with a new, clean cotton ball after the print is absolutely dry. It should come right off.

_________________
Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"