I know that shutters are delicate devices, but I'm wondering if servicing one would be outside the realm of what a watchmaker is capable of.

I didn't service the one in my Rolleiflex, although I did do some other adjustments to it like setting the "feeler" correctly.

In any case, I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement and if/when I find one I might have a go at this one. I'm not afraid to make parts provided that there's enough of the original there to go on.

Of course, I suppose I could always shop for a more modern lens in a Copal shutter or the like. I don't necessarily mind losing the rangefinder.

The Rolleiflex use a Synchro Compur shutter
http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/rep/compur-repair/03-15.html
CN-1110-000 for most of its cameras. Its a semi complicated shutter and will be difficult for someone with no shutter servicing experience to service.
There are a few other versions listed, which are variants of the base version stated.
Check APUG medium format section for recommended Roleiflex service.

Out of curiosity, was your overexposure comment on the Rolleiflex photos or the Speed Graphic photos?

Admittedly the Rolleiflex hasn't been used much in the past couple of years, but I have a LOT of rolls of perfectly exposed Velvia and Provia from the camera. Admittedly, when I was shooting it a lot I usually carried a digicam in my pocket and used that as my light meter, and so it may well just have been a matter of-back then-being able to correlate everything to the digicam readings(I do remember I didn't just read the settings right off the digicam). I was mostly eyeballing exposures with it on this roll.

The Speed Graphic photos were metered with my Canon T90, a metering app on my iPhone, and some "Sunny 16" logic applied to make sure they made sense. I probably should invest in a stand alone spot meter(the only stand-alone meter I have now is a Minolta incident meter, and since I respect property lines I couldn't use it for these photos) but have higher priorities.

These are all scans from my V700-I'd be happy to post light table photographs of the negatives if that would be more revealing.

Quote:

Out of curiosity, was your overexposure comment on the Rolleiflex photos or the Speed Graphic photos?

The 3 photos posted in this thread.
Edit: When save image failed I used Copy Image and pasted to a new image in PS.
1st photo- blacks start at 35 on the histogram, highlights way above the base line at 255.
2nd photo- something black starts at 18 but the most black information starts at 39, highlights dip at 214 and pick back up at 235 and remain up to 255 which could be your finger.
3rd photo- some blacks start at 0 and highlights are above base line at 255.

0 on a histogram is black, 255 is white, base line is no information at that tone, above base line is some information.

Photos 1 and 2 are actually under exposed 1/2 to 2/3 stop and over developed.
Photo 3 is over exposed and over developed.

A normal exposure will have deep blacks starting between 0 and 15, correct development will have the brightest highlights ending between 235 and 255.
To test a negative for correct exposure with a scanner turn auto exposure off in the scan software and do a flat scan, read the histogram of that scan in post processing software.

copy photos not saved.

My comments on shutters is based on many serviced shutters that were 1/2 stop slow, run until they stopped, sat for years on a shelf or in a drawer, and used to make thousands of exposures in commercial use.

I like the centerweighted metering of my Nikon's but never liked the 30° angle of view of a Luna Pro F. I switched to a Gossen Ultra Spot and have never looked back.