Yes there is a slight tilt to the camera rear, but it is not clearing the body throughout its movement.

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I have never had to remove/service a body release

By gott, "To boldly go where no man has gone before -"
Well had no choice. The slide switch would not move down to Front position.
With the shutter plate removed, looking past the 'finger' that the slide switch moved, within its opening slit, one could see a dark something. With magnifying glass, could see threads and the head.. used a tweezers, to try to get it out, but the slit was to small, and it became lose. Moved the camera around trying to get it out, no luck, and even though it was no longer caught there, finger still would not move to Front position.
Soooo... went to page 19, but modified. Did not do step 2. Instead cut the leather under the rangefinder area, in the center of that area parallel to the range finder, and across. Did step 4.. took off the cover, and found the two screws. I think one of them was jammed under the arm, against the inside of the case, and this bent the arm.

Before I seal it up again, I'll take a picture, of the case opening, and the mechanism, for your future reference.

Solenoid... da... as in flash! Ha.. son of a gun.

Hahaha... I'm bent and reformed, but my wife says not trainable.

Yes, it seemed to be forced beyond its design limits, as it was rubbing and jamming, and getting stuck, against the mahogany case opening. The opening, most likely the two screws fell into.
My Sherlock deduces, that of the five screws that held the Right Bed Place Brace, (#1 page 17) the bottom two, towards the rear, came lose and fell out. Then eventually into the hole. Why, because of all the screw holes, these where the only ones which showed signs of raggedness.
There wasn't a clear thread hole! Around its edges, you could see red mahogany, as if the screw hole had been worked by the stress of the camera being closed and opened, as the screws slowly came out.

So yes, I tried to reform it, but alas, we will slightly reform it again. To give a little tilt and lilt, to its egress into its neighborly world of range finder arm, bellows and rails.
So it does not scrape, and fail to return, causing unpleasantness to the ruler of its kingdom, when asked to perform, its requested duty.

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the bottom two, towards the rear, came lose and fell out. Then eventually into the hole. Why, because of all the screw holes, these where the only ones which showed signs of raggedness.

Possibly fat fingers could not put them in their correct holes and dropped them into the body and did not remove them as they were too blind to see them.

As for ragged or stripped holes take a round tooth pick, clip the pointed end with a pair of side cutters at the point the tooth pick will fit the bad hole snugly. Coat the tooth pick now a dowel with wood glue, push it into the hole and cut flush with the body. After 30 minutes or so, when the glue has set, make a pilot hole in the center of the repaired hole. Insert the screw through the piece it is to hold in place and screw it in.
I often times make two impressions with a #0 slot screwdriver 90° apart then press the tip of the screw into the center of the impressions and install the screw.

I'm sure Charles you have this info, didn't even realized it was on Jo Lommen's site, came across looking for his Focal Plane and Range Finder adjustments.
But for others who may not, here is information for the Internal Shutter Release Mechanism.. which is not very well described in the manual.
http://lommen9.home.xs4all.nl/technical%20page/start.html
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Completed the Pacemaker Assembly.. made a lens board, and now to the steps of adjusting rangefinder to it. Using an oldie but goody, and will have some questions about that in the Lens section.

Thank you very much 45pps (aka Charles) couldn't have done it without your help, and very pleasantly surprised, that most all the parts and screws where there. I'm tickled pink. It reminds me of my first engine rebuild when I was in college, on the GI bill, back in the late '60's. Also did it out of the book... Volkswagen Repair for the Complete Idiot.

Its bigger than the 3x4, heavier, but a deeper bellows and larger film area to set up the oldie but goodie lens, and with the trigger switch on the front, its going to be a different relationship.

Thanks again..

Congrats on getting it together.