#2-64 are used elsewhere on the camera.

The Graflok bars for a Pacemaker are possibly straight if the back edges are sloped where they mount.

The sliders go over the lip of the accessory or into a slot in the side of the accessory depending on the accessory. The slope is so that they not only go over the lip but put pressure inward to hold the accessory tightly in place.

I have also seen graflok sliders that moved right to left to attach as well as the right to left that I posted pictures of.

Thanks for the info. It sounds like there should be a little flex in the tabs so they will press the accessory in.

The main accessory I am wanting to use is a "23" rollfilm holder. I tried it out with the holder taped in place and was pleasantly surprised with the results. Being used to very sophisticated backs in modern medium format cameras, I had worried about film flatness.

Quote:

The main accessory I am wanting to use is a "23" roll film holder. I tried it out with the holder taped in place and was pleasantly surprised with the results. Being used to very sophisticated backs in modern medium format cameras, I had worried about film flatness.

Film flatness will not be a problem unless
1. you are doing macro work or
2. you wind to the next unexposed frame and then let the roll film holder set for several days or longer.

I currently use a Graphic 22 and Graphic 23 on my SSG. The Graflok sliders only go about one screw shank diameter beyond the sharp angle in the screw slot when the RFH is locked in place.

I'm surprised one of the other members did not post pictures of a Speed/Crown Graflok slider.

I made a proof-of-concept out of a spare vinyl darkslide:



It seems to work well, but the vinyl is brittle and I wouldn't trust it long-term.

I'll make a better version out of brass, which will ideally have a push-pull tab at the end. I'll have to see how pliable the brass is.

From memory the Pacemaker sliders are flat, about 1/4-3/8 inch wide, screw slots like the super's sliders, and turned up on each end to provide thumb push grips. Your design works and that is what is important. The originals were chrome but I do not know if they were plated steel or brass.

I came across two ebay listings with fair pictures of Pacemaker Graflok sliders:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Graflex-Crown-Speed-4x5-Graphic-Graflok-Back_W0QQitemZ250541045621QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a5568f775
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/Graflex-4x5-Speed-Graphic-Rear-Assembly_W0QQitemZ400088942336QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFilm_Cameras?hash=item5d2728c700 second picture.

[quote="45PSS"] The originals were chrome but I do not know if they were plated steel or brass.

A simple magnet test on my 2 x 3 Pacemaker indicates that they are brass (or at least some non-magnetic metal).

C. Henry

I've tried to win a couple of auctions that would get me the original parts, but no luck.

With the DIY parts it isn't a huge deal to me to match the original. I just want something that works and isn't too obtrusive when not in use. When I make the brass version it will be a little narrower and have shorter screw slots.

I only have a Dremel, a drill, tinsnips, and pliers available, so not too much point in trying to make something pretty.

I was going for the pictures which can be saved to your computer (right click in windows) then with a little brightness/contrast adjustment you'll have good detail giving you a bigger ballpark of ideas to make the final product with.

Now, about that tool kit, go to a local hardware store and get a good hacksaw, some 32tpi blades for it (2 pack) and a mill cut file. A sample of a good hacksaw that will do precision work is http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290061&kw=hacksaw&origkw=hacksaw&searchId=45502583424
or
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00936143000P?keyword=hacksaw
Either will keep the blade taunt not allowing it to twist while cutting.

6 inch mill bastard file http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1289836&cp=2568443.2568450.2628076.2629124
or
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00931265000P?keyword=file

and of course some 3/32 brass stock and you're in business.

Awldune;

After taking a better look at your "proof-of-concept" photo I took a look at my 2 x 3 Pacemaker and found that the screws seat on a 1/4" wide spring stock piece on top of the sliders. Both screws on each slide go through a single spring strip which distributes the load over a large area of the slider.
Hope that helps in your work of designing and making your own replacement parts.

C. Henry

45PSS wrote:

and of course some 3/32 brass stock and you're in business. :)

Where can you get it? I've had trouble finding sheets of brass. I was trying to use a house number plate but I think it is too thin and not actually brass anyway.

C. Henry, I saw the springs in the service manual, but am hoping they are not really necessary. Not sure how I would source such a thing aside from blowing $40-60 on a complete Graflok back from Ebay.

Awldune;

Brass strips and sheet stock can usually be found in any Hobby Shop that caters to Model Railroaders and/or Radio Control Aircraft, Boat or Race Car enthusiasts.
As for the springs, I think that flat stock might work, even if it did not do so as well as spring stock would.

C. Henry

search engine=google>key word "brass stock"= suggested brass stock metal>
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1367&step=4&showunits=inches&id=83&top_cat=79
or
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/brass2.phtml?page=flat&LimAcc= &aident=

select 1/8 inch x 1 1/2 (.125 x 1.5) as 3/32 is not listed.

A brass kick plate or push plate could work for a source also but you would have to make two layers for most to be rigid enough.

All of this may not matter as I have managed to reach Mr. Lustig. Could be he was out of town when I was trying the number a while ago.

He was difficult at times to understand but I seemed to gather that he has plenty of parts and is actually still having parts made as needed.

I'll try to get a new pair of rail guides while I'm at it.