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'T' sticky/where can I find a graphex shutter on the cheap?
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Henry
Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1662
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:21 am

That's the one. It's in a slightly different format than the reprint I have, which appears to be of an earlier edition, but the info and contents are essentially the same. You just saved $15! (thanks to RichS).
cmedin
Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 10
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:36 am

Well, hell, I guess I'll give it a whirl. Managed to get all the other cameras I've had apart back together so far. :-)

I did pull it out this evening and now it appears to stick in B as well as sometimes in the 1 and 1/2 second times. I guess the gunk is just moving around a bit and clogging up the works.
Henry
Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1662
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:41 am

Definitely a Ronsonol squirt should be your first step. It may be all it needs. Remove lens elements and be sure all surfaces are dry before reinstalling the glass.
45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 8:29 am

That's it, didn't know Rich had put it up on his site.
Even TriFlow is too heavy an oil if too much is used. Use a drop about the size of a straight pin point.
And one last caution, don't pull a muscle patting yourself on the back when you succeed in fixing it.
troublemaker
Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 4:13 pm

That is a nice manual, simple and more user friendly than the military version.
I'll second the go easy on the lube. The idea is you need only tiny amounts. You don't want lube migrating and eventually getting onto the thin shutter or diaphram baldes. Esspecially if the shutter gets warm in the car or something like that it will thin out. Secondly, there area a couple items that require light grease. Use something that will not freeze up in cold weather, and use very small amounts applied with a pin or needle.
And when you finish, please post an image patting yourself on the back as it will send Mr Grumpy over the edge.
cmedin
Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 10
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 8:05 pm

OK, I am inside now... spent a half hour just reading the manual and comparing stuff. So far I have figured out that the bulb lever appears to be sticking. Either the spring doesn't have enough oomph in it or there's some gunk in there. Soaked it in ronsonol (the lever assembly/pivot) and been working it back and forth, but it still sticks occasionally. This causes the T mode not to work since the B lever is still in the position to block the shutter from closing when the T lever moves out of the way.

So I think we have the culprit here.. what do you think, keep working it over with Ronsonol, or is there something I can do to improve the spring strength a bit? I haven't gotten deeper into the manual, but might it be worth removing the B lever altogether to get underneath it, it seems like the gunk is trapped between the B and T levers.
cmedin
Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 10
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 8:23 pm

Holy crap, I think it's working now! Guess it just needed some exercise.

While I have it apart I'll go ahead and lube it up where suggested, at least the pieces I can reach without further disassembly. Not sure if the sticky B lever was really it now that I look at how it works, but heck, it's working now! And the times sound damn good too!

edit: and now I understand how the T and B modes work inside the shutter, this has been highly educational. Thanks to those who encouraged me to DIY.
45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:52 pm

The dried lubericant that loosened up in the Ronsonol may dry back out and stick again in a few days to weeks. Best to flush it out completely and relube.
troublemaker
Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 1:36 am

Holy Crap !
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