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On 2004-06-05 04:26, clnfrd wrote: I think T.R. has the right idea...replace the cable release socket. If a tap does exist...it being conical in shape...it would bind after less than one turn....same as the cable release threads do when threaded into the socket.

You may be right. Obviously none of us has used such a tap. And I never thought of it, but conicaL would be a much better term for it. "tappered" is an official tap designation that has nothing to do with being conical...

On the other hand, I have made conical holes before using a reamer which usually has 4 blades to do the cutting. If those blades were grooved, it would be a conical tap. And then there's those pipe taps. Okay, they're much less of an angle, but still conical.

I think the trick would be very smal increments in the cutting/turning. Very similar to what happens when you try to tap a hole that's just a bit too small and th entire tap surface does cutting. Difficult to do but not impossible...

I've had shutter release sockets that were a little sloppy. but with a cable release with really good threads...their being "conical" in shape... I've found that a little extra scrunch with a small set of needle nose pliers would just about cut new threads and stay put when attached.

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On 2004-06-04 07:26, RichS wrote: I. Almost every single shutter and camera ever made for over 50 years. There must have been some kind of repair tool.

Okay now since I think a standard exists then a standards document must exist. Right? Shouldn't it hold some clues? I found a note sent to me stating that the people that made the Prontor shutters made most of the European style cables. Maybe they know? Failing that they must know how to fix a shutter.

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On 2004-06-06 05:49, Nick wrote: Quote: On 2004-06-04 07:26, RichS wrote: I. Almost every single shutter and camera ever made for over 50 years. There must have been some kind of repair tool. Okay now since I think a standard exists then a standards document must exist. Right? Shouldn't it hold some clues? I found a note sent to me stating that the people that made the Prontor shutters made most of the European style cables. Maybe they know? Failing that they must know how to fix a shutter.

I thought I mentioned the standard in a prvious post?

It's ASA 238.4.5-1950. Gives the complete specs for the threads. I just haven't found a manufacturer yet that will respond to my requests, but I'm still trying...

If you want to get a tap, Regal-Beloit can make anything you want. They make taps in Long Island and most of the time it's a 24hr. turn-around. You will have to go through a supplier to get it done, I can give you the name of one. A warning, the cost of one tap will be high, but if you want more than one the price per piece will fall accordingly. The supplier is: Pac Tool and Supply,phone # (201)933-8550. Ask for Mike. Have all the information ready when you call, as I read the string, I saw that you had a standard, which will help a lot. I hope that this works out for you. I've dealt with Regal before, and they have made some really oddball taps that I had to get when I worked for the above place. Oh, if you call Pac, tell Mike that Kenny referred you. It might help. Best wishes, Kenny

Are you guys sure the socket has a tapered thread? I always thought the socket had a straight thread and the tapered thread on the release cable was designed to catch in several different size sockets from back in the days when things were not so standardized.

I'm standing here, flashlight in hand, gazing into the cable release socket of a Graphex shutter. The threads are smaller in diameter the deeper I gaze into the socket. Granted, one of my cable releases, conical in shape, is large enough in diameter at the largest point to fit into a larger socket...but the socket and the cable release are both conical in shape. Fred.

I have lately grown cautious about the received wisdom of forty years ago, but back then, it was widely believed that German shutters had tapered cable release sockets, while American ones had straight sockets.

I still can't envision a tool capable of cutting threads inside a tapering hole that's too small to accommodate a fly cutter of some sort, to be used with the headstock rotated. I'd love to know how this can be done.