My last comment on this. I don't have an "operational system", but I think the Graflex literature of the time is reliable. And a little common sense is in order. Of course everything has to be connected correctly. The camera connection is polarized -the Y cord fits one way, and, on the other end both connections are marked REMOTE and SHUTTER.

I don't know how you arrived at this "either of two battery sources to trip the shutter and fire the bulb" scenario. Surely you don't think you can use the camera batteries to substitute for the battery case batteries, do you? Nor do you have to remove the camera batteries if you're using flash. I DO know that much!

The brochure for the Super Graphic says: "The new Super Graphic "Y" cord with its 3-prong plug eliminates all of the problems previously encountered in connecting flash equipment. ... With this exclusive Super Graphic flash arrangement you can trip the shutter with the electroswitch located on the left side of the camera or with the switch on the battery case. Only the Graflite battery case can be used with the "Y" cord for right hand-left hand tripping." Speaks for itself, doesn't it?

And, in the picture in the brochure for the Super, the user is holding a 3-cell flash. In fact, the circuits were so strong, you could mount a Stroboflash head on the battery case and, with a short jumper cord from the case to the head, fire it using EITHER switch. You won't hurt the solonoid in the Super because its rated for 45 volts.

Now, if you think YOUR system is different from that, by all means take any precautions you deem necessary.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: alecj on 2003-03-05 02:01 ]</font>

One comment.... While reading "Graflite Flash Equipment Guidebook I found a reference to the Super Graphic on page 16, #4.
"(For electrified Super Graphic Cameras, circuit control must be on "1") With circuit control set at "1", you cannot accidentally fire flashbulbs with red micromatic button."

alecj,
<b>THANK YOU</b> for sharing what information you have.

When this thread started I had forgot about having the 2772, a Y cord and a copy of the old Graflite user manual, had 2 SSG bodies disassembled for cleaning/inspection, and no clue as to how things worked. I now have a complete SSG body that the rangefinder does not work properly, a Rodenstock 135mm awaiting servicing, and a parts/project SSG body listed elsewhere.
The limits of this board prevent me from posting the schematics I was working from.
I have no intent of putting batteries in the Good body or using the electronics at this time, although it would be interesting to see what would happen with a 2772/2773 switch is its varrious positions.
This is what I have learned:
With electronically coupled lens board and properly connected lens, Y cord, and 2772 or 2773 with switch in position 1;
Pressing red switch on camera applies cammera power to camera selonid, selonid trips shutter, shutter sync contacts close applying flash battery power to flashbulb.
Pressing switch on flash applies ? battery power(camera I think) to camera selonid triping shutter, shutter sync contacts close applying flash battery power to flashbulb.
Tripping shutter via shutter trip lever or shutter cable release causes shutter sync contacts to close causing flash battery power to be applied to flashbulb.
I tend to eer on the side of caution in unfamiliar terrority so that a battery or capicators don't go poof instead of the flashbulb until we get the bugs and/or misconceptions worked out.
Now, anyone care to play an inning or two of softball using a Mamiya RB as the softball?

_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.





<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2003-03-07 14:31 ]</font>

Thanks to all who were good enough to take the time to respond, most especially to Alec & Charles, i am appreciative; all info has been very helpful. I got the SSG and it's a bit of a dud, so it will be going to Mr. Lustig in the near future for a complete overhaul. This is the way the cookies crumble sometimes.....

Quote:

The brochure for the Super Graphic says: "The new Super Graphic "Y" cord with its 3-prong plug eliminates all of the problems previously encountered in connecting flash equipment. ... With this exclusive Super Graphic flash arrangement you can trip the shutter with the electroswitch located on the left side of the camera or with the switch on the battery case. Only the Graflite battery case can be used with the "Y" cord for right hand-left hand tripping." Speaks for itself, doesn't it?

thanks alec for this info. the red button body release is functional to trip the shutter, but i can't get the shutter to trip using the graflite button via "Y" cord. surprisingly the shutter trips on its own (without pressing graflite button) when i plug the cord into the outlet on the camera body. i'm guessing either the cord is bad or there is a bad contact in the camera somewhere. i have, however, been able to fire bulbs using the cord. Any thoughts why
the flashgun is not tripping the camera solenoid?

First, confirm the "solenoid" link in the cord is plugged into the solenoid plug in the battery case. Then, be sure the switch on the battery case is set to 1. Otherwise, the solenoid outlet would be hot all the time.

If all that's right, then it's either a bad switch on the battery case or a short on the solenoid side of the cord. I'd suspect the cord. If you could borrow a known good one (cord) you could confirm that. Those cords still show up on THAT auction site.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: alecj on 2003-03-11 06:35 ]</font>

I suspect the cord also. I had the household plugs inserted into the "shutter" & "remote" outlets on the battery case, just as their "legs" are labelled on the molded black Y connector fitting. No luck. Then i tried connecting the "remote" leg into the "solenoid" outlet as you mentioned. No luck. All the while I was trying all settings on the battery case i.e. "N", "1" and "2". I also tried a different single (not Y) household-to-Super Graphic 3-pin cord with the household plug connected to the "remote" & "solenoid" outlets and the various Graflite switch settings...no luck here either...so by trying a DIFFERENT cord with the same non-result this kind of axes the "something is wrong with the Y cord" argument.
Does anyone have this Y-cord/Graflite arrangement that is set up & works properly? If so, any suggestions or ideas why it isn't happening.
I know this isn't a life/death situation (and i don't mean to beat this subject to death) i'm just into having the camera function as it was intended to, and I guess its kinda making me a little mental not knowing why its not working.
It will be a while before i can send it along to Mr. Lustig, i know i could just give him a call, but i don't want to bother him until i am ready to do so. Thanks again.............

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: sobahguy on 2003-03-11 08:18 ]</font>

Sobahguy,
With batteries installed, lens board removed, observe shutter release lever in lower left corner of lens board opening, does it move freely when red camera button is pushed? Yes=proced. NO=selonid needs to be cleaned, requires standard/bellows front disassembly.
Movement OK= connect Y cord, any abnormal triggering is faulty cord. No abnormal movement=connect household end of remote with a jumper cord momentarily=release lever moves, Yes=contacts in graflight bad. NO= next step.
Remove cord, jumper between center and front body plug contacts, release lever moves=Yes-Y cord bad. NO=body wiring bad.
Charles

_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2003-03-11 15:16 ]</font>