Graflex.org

Baker · Joined: 08 Apr 2002 Posts: 85 Location: Texas

135 Optar, Graphex shutter. One of the flash sync posts is broken at the connection inside the shutter --- if I unscrew the post itself, the threaded bit beneath is loose. It won't close the circuit at all.

Is it likely to be something simple (misplaced spring or the like) that I can repair myself, or should I send it off? Or would it just be cheaper to buy a new shutter?

alecj · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 853 Location: Alabama

Let Fred Lustig repair it. Cheaper than buying a new lens if that one is otherwise in good shape. Good time to do a CLA.

Henry · Posted: Tue Aug 13, 2002 8:03 am Post subject:

It's not too hard to fix if you have access to the Graflex shutter service manual (available from photobooksonline.com and others) and a few simple tools. The flash post (or "prong," in official Graflex lingo) screws onto the "prong screw" located next to the synchronizer, which in turn holds the contact assembly that completes the circuit and fires the flash. You do have to do a "stage 1" disassembly of the shutter to get at these items, so if you're not comfortable with little DIY projects involving small parts then Alec's advice is still good---especially if something is broken inside there.

[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2002-08-13 16:48 ]

Baker · Joined: 08 Apr 2002 Posts: 85 Location: Texas

Got a manual, took it apart, found the problem: the electrical contact from the upper post was bent way out of place. I reshaped it, and now it works, to a point. It'll fire on (X), and it works on the flashbulb delays if you move the selector switch to "off" and back to "M" after cocking the shutter. Is this normal, or does it need more bending?

Henry · Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2002 6:06 pm Post subject:

Well, it doesn't seem normal, but further bending the contact might be a bit risky. Wish I could follow up with some good advice (after having already led you into this!)---can anybody out there help Baker with this one??

Baker · Joined: 08 Apr 2002 Posts: 85 Location: Texas

Update: Got my bipost-to-PC cord from Paramount today and tested the X synch through a very complicated and scientific method*. That works, at least.

*--- 1) plug electronic flash into front shutter.
2) set rear shutter to "O", remove Graflok focusing panel, stick flash inside camera.
3) look into lens from front, cock and fire front shutter.
4) be blinded by the magical light of flash through properly-synched shutter.

45PSS · Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2002 5:27 am Post subject:

I like my test procedure better; connect flash to lens, aim flash toward white wall (other colors work), turn lights off behind me, put cocked shutter in front of me 6 inches to a foot, position flash futher than lens from me and fire the shutter, see shutter blades? flash Not synched, standard is 3 blades in outter 1/3 of opening if firing strobe on M setting. I use 1/50 to 1/100 speed settings.

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Baker · Joined: 08 Apr 2002 Posts: 85 Location: Texas

I fixed it!

Well, kind of. Noticed a teensy little spring that didn't seem to be doing anything, squinted at the manual, put the ends of the spring back where I thought they might be supposed to go, and now the M delays work...too well. It sticks when on the red M, and waits longer-than-the-flash-but-not-enough-so-to-notice-without-wasting-a-Polaroid on the black M setting. Think it needs to be oiled, or possibly de-oiled(i.e. a good soaking in lighter fluid)?

Baker · Joined: 08 Apr 2002 Posts: 85 Location: Texas

Update: Having long ago given up on the shutter synch, I just now was bored and tried the solenoid (using the cord for the shutter, with two little bits of paperclip stuck in the female bipost end; I'll build a proper cord out of an old stretchy-coiled lamp cord tomorrow).

It worked!

1/25 at f/8, ISO-100 Polaroid quite overexposed. The ambient room light (a 60w soft-white bulb) wouldn't do that, would it? But the GE #5 I used for the test would...

A follow-up question: I have quite a few GE #6 focal-plane flashbulbs, plus several that say only "GE" on them, and are probably #6s. Will they work with the solenoid-and-leaf-shutter setup? If so, can anybody give me some guide numbers for 'em? They're not in the original box.

[ This Message was edited by: Baker on 2002-12-09 21:27 ]

AWT · Joined: 05 Sep 2002 Posts: 57 Location: Upstate SC

Baker:

Congrats!

To answer your questions: 1) 1/25 @f8 with ISO-100 should not be overexposed with just a 60watt bulb, but, yeah, a #5 definitely would (depending on room size). I found that the slower Type 55 Polaroid film did excellent under similar conditions.

2)I've also found that I can use Focal Plane bulbs (#6, FP26, etc) quite well with solenoid-release at slower shutters (100 or less). They burn longer by design to allow the fp curtain to properly expose the whole negative, but are quite bright during their entire flash and work quite well for me. Oh, and they can usually be had for a bit less $$ on wEPAY

Baker · Joined: 08 Apr 2002 Posts: 85 Location: Texas

Took the camera and some Polaroid 54 to the school paper's Christmas party, and used the #6 bulbs with a (pulled out of thin air) guide number of 160 at 1/100, and it worked! Everybody was really impressed with the camera and puzzled by the concept of single-use flashbulbs.