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troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

thinking about trying infrared photography in a couple weeks and am wondering if anyone here has some helpful tips or suggestions that may help get me along my way.
I intend to use 120 format with one of my Century bodies and roll backs. I have a couple #25 red filters to get going and will probably use one of my Optar lenses.
One question would be, can I actually load the film in subdued light as I do with regular B&W film?
From what I am gathering from film tech sheets available I will need to move the lens out from the actual visible focussing range just a little bit, about 0.25%. Does that sound about right?

I have a few weeks to run some tests before I take some film out on the road so any info may be helpful...
Stephen

glennfromwy · Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming

True infrared film must be handled in total darkness. That includes taking it out of the packaging, unloading the camera and every other procedure. I wouldn't worry too much about the focus issue if you are shooting scenics. If you have no principle close object that requires tack sharpness, just stop down small and depth of field will take care of it. Keep in mind that some plastic developing tanks are not infrared light tight. If using plastic, you're best off to do it in the dark.
Edit: I don't visit this site very often but do a web search for WJ's Infrared and Photography Home Page. More info than you knew existed on infrared and just about everything else. Very intereting!
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Glenn

"Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

[ This Message was edited by: glennfromwy on 2005-10-20 17:50 ]

45PSS · Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 12:54 am Post subject:

Not all cmaeras, bellows, lens boards, film holders are infrared safe. To test, load film in total darkness, install film holder on camera in total darkness (advance roll holder to frame 1), take camera into direct sunlight and expose all sides of the cmaera, advance to frame 2 or switch sides of holder then remove the darkslide but do not open the shutter and expose all sides of the camera to the direct sun. Process a 2 sheet holder or shoot the rest of the roll if roll film. Any foging caused by non infrared blocking equipement will be appearent in one of the first 2 sheets or frames. (Film well spent!)
Charles

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The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

I should be able to get the take up spool loaded in the dark. I don't have any problems with 4x5 in a changing bag etc...
Thanks for the tip Glenn, and while I intend to do scenic landscape, I do a lot of near far stuff so that's why testing around town first and concerned with focus...
charles, thanks for the test tip on turning over a couple frames to test bellows etc. I have heard of these problems so that's why consulting with other century users and so on...

Stephen

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-10-20 18:13 ]

45PSS · Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 5:27 am Post subject:

Unload in total darkness also!
I've only shot Ektachrome EIR in 35mm and may get around to B&W someday but I did research the subject and have a basics book on B&W infrared. I'll look up the technial stuff if ask.
Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

I was going to start with 35mm because I could make a lot of test exposures; however, my Nikon has the IR LED film advance that will not allow it. So that leaves me with one of my Graphics, or TLRs. I will probably try both, and test a roll in a Singer RH-10 and one in a RB67 back and see how that goes.
I don't think the local shops will have the film Saturday, and will probably have to wait for some to arrive from back east next week.
The tech sheets for Maco and Kodak have some exposure and development info as starting points.
I will just load and unload the film here in the dark room before going out, and keep the backs in the bag until needed. I generallly only pull the dark slides when exposing anyway, and always keep my backs and cameras in the dark as much as possible as a habit.
I will keep looking around, but thus far all I can find is Maco 820c in 120 roll. I would like to try some of thier Aura without the anti-halation backing also if anyone knows where that may be available.

Have a good day,
Stephen

glennfromwy · Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming

Have you tried J&C Photo?

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Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

No haven't ever tried JC, I 'll see if they are listed on the site here. I found some 35mm kodak local I can pick up tomorrow, and scavenged an old Pentax manual camera that I can shoot it up with. Thus I can work on developing tests while waiting for 120 roll film so I can check out if it will work with my 2x3's.
What I really want is the Maco Aura for the full halo effect, but i'll try a diffuser on the lens a couple times and see what that does also...

thanks,
Stephen

Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

The reason you need to load in total darkness is because of the estar base. It light pipes, like fiber optic wire. So a little tab sticking out of the cassette will fog quite a bit of the roll.

I don't know where I read it but I do remember seeing that any darkslide with (the new) 5 raised dots is supposed to be IR safe. The older 3 raised dots and any aluminum or metal darkslide is not IR safe. But this pertained to holders were IR safe back in 1937 for 1937 IR film which was much slower (and less grain) so it still won't hurt to test.

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

Thanks Les,
I checked some of my dark slides for 120 backs and they have the 3 dimples,indented, not raised (4x5 riteway holders have five though?), though i will probably test one anyway. The RB67 is of course a shiny metal slide (these are the things I was most seeking about my equipment). Also found on the tech sheets about the light pipe of the 35mm film leader, and intend to handle only in darkness...
Also, it makes sense that the older IR photos I've seen were done with slower films as some examples appear to have blurred foliage, esspecially things like poplar or aspen leaves. Can't stop clouds from moving either...

Glenn,
I checked out the WJ's web site (search engine working finally). Whoa, lots of neato stuff there, so will never be bored with nothing to read for quite some time...

Stephen

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-10-22 08:49 ]

glennfromwy · Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming

Metal slides are indeed infrared safe, so your RB back will be fine. If your other roll back only has 3 dimples, the slide is not safe, but the roll hoder is. Your Century bellows should be safe but I can't be positive about that. It's new enough. One trick photographers used back when the earth was still cooling was to wrap the bellows in aluminum foil. Personally, I think that's going a bit far. Good luck.

_________________
Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

I might be inclined to wrap my 4x5 bellows in foil as they are suspect, but I have a couple 2x3's with excellent bellows. I am going to read about adding foil to the film pressure plate (as per a couple of threads on WJ's site). I checked all of my 2x3 Graflex backs and they are all 3 dimple slides. I may try one anyway by leaving in on the camera and using RF to focus.
I shot one roll of Kodak 35mm on a Pentax K1000 and it came out OK for an overcast day, and did what I wanted it to do.
The only problem I experienced was that the thin backing of the HIE film got jammed in my platic Paterson reels, so I ended up snipping it in the middle and using two reels. The shorter 120 roll may be OK. Kodak's guidelines for starting point development worked out well. So far, so good.
Stephen
P.S. What about the Grafmatic and infrared ?
I am assuming it rates with the three dimple dark slide, but does anyone know if one could be used?
After going through some darkslides, I found that 4x5 Riteway holders have the 5 raised dots mentioned here, and some older Graflex holderrs have only 3 dimples. None of the 2x3 120 roll holders have raised dots on them, not even the later Singer Graflex RH10. any additional info would be helpful before I load film this coming week...
Thanks,
Stephen

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-10-24 07:44 ]

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-10-29 08:14 ]