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Broken spring back.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3158
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heat it up until near red and bend it over in a vise. If the heat takes some of the tension out then reheating a second time will restore some, I think.

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Rangemaster



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 412
Location: Montana, Glacier National Park

PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2004 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After the heating process, re-heat to cherry red and then use an oil bath quentch cooling process as is done with knife blades and such, this should restore most of the temper that is in the steel and restore the spring to the steel.

Dave
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Sjixxxy



Joined: 27 Apr 2004
Posts: 108
Location: Midwest US

PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2004 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally got around to attempt number two at making this thing. One tab bent, the other broke. I'm beginning to think that I'll have better luck probing for a rundown parts camera somewhere, or else watching eBay for a good condition, lensless graphic with a cheap buyitnow. Or else create my own Graflok type mechanism.
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disemjg



Joined: 10 Jan 2002
Posts: 469
Location: Washington, DC

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2004 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two suggestions for you. The first is inelegant, but will work. Form the spring and the tabs separately, and then epoxy the tabs to the spring. The tabs are to be formed with an "L" shape to provide a bonding surface, and are made of mild steel or brass. I have salvaged formed flat springs this way, and they have held up OK.

While I have not made a spring like this myself, from what I understand the key is to draw the temper before forming the spring. After the spring is shaped and polished it is re-heated to restore spring function.

There is a lot of information on making springs in the gunsmith community; a good book that has a chapter on spring making is Gunsmith Kinks II, from Brownells in Montezuma Iowa (www.brownells.com). Brownells is also the major supply source for related supplies, including spring stock and spring assortments. Check them out.

[ This Message was edited by: disemjg on 2004-06-22 17:11 ]
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Sjixxxy



Joined: 27 Apr 2004
Posts: 108
Location: Midwest US

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2004 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

orm the spring and the tabs separately, and then epoxy the tabs to the spring. The tabs are to be formed with an "L" shape to provide a bonding surface, and are made of mild steel or brass.

I've considered something like this, and will probably do it. I have a feeling it will be less headache.
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Sjixxxy



Joined: 27 Apr 2004
Posts: 108
Location: Midwest US

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

and FYI: The springs from a Speed graphic spring back fit onto a Burke & James.

Now to find an extra one somewhere.
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Rangemaster



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 412
Location: Montana, Glacier National Park

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

how long did you say those springs were, I swear the two sets I have hear are off a speed graphic, but I thought we measured that and the ones I have were two short..

Let me know.

Dave

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Sjixxxy



Joined: 27 Apr 2004
Posts: 108
Location: Midwest US

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Layed flat, as in installed on the camera, they are 5 3/4ths inch long on both cameras.

If you do have some, I placed an order for some of your GG's tonight, could ship them with that.
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