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swapping focus rack/yoke between SG and CG

 
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Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2004 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 4x5 CG 9xxxxx s/n (don't have it here) in almost usable condition. Last things to be done are replace cracked rear housing yoke guide and straighten if possible the bent yoke rail that caused this.

It occurred to me that the 4x5 SG I have is in rougher shape, but this part is fine. I don't know the s/n off the top of my head.

Any reason why I couldn't take the focus yoke/rack off the SG and more it to the CG? I could then fuss with the sick one later.

Oh, one more thing. The CG has the TOP RF, and apparently the cam, but the balls & rods are all gone.

Any idea what size ball bearings work, and whether all balls will work instead of balls & rods?

Thanks

Murray
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2004 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't help with either one for sure, but...

My first thought was that a Speed might be shorter? I checked the parts list and they only list a single part number for both Speed & Crown. So, for Pacemakers, the parts should be interchangable. But between a top and side mounted RF model, I don't know for sure. As far as I understand, they should be the same. I don't have a parts book for the top model...

And for those balls... I would say that if the balls were a perfect fit, you could probably get away with all balls. But if they were slightly undersized, they would bind under compression. The rods offer a flat surface for the ball to push against to prevent the binding. You could try it and see what happens?

Good luck!
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3208
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-26 20:17 ]
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2004-05-17 19:12, 45PSS wrote:
...
Why not download the Top RF Service manual for Rich's site
http://www.southbristolviews.com



Ya knoiw, I thought I had seen that book someplace! Now _thats_ embarrassing! I guess I'll have to print it out and keep it handy for the next quextions

Thanks!
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Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK -

I figured out the yoke is NOT bent - side by side, the SG and CG rear section are flat. There is a bit of slope to the portion that rides in the body guides, but that looks like it belongs there.

The question then is what broke the guide.

Does this happen often?

Also, how to reach the rear bellows clips on an SG? Do I have to remove the FP shutter? If so, will it come out as an assembly, or do I have to take chances pulling the rollers and curtain out?

Half the speeds work - I hate to end up with no speeds working after removing the shutter.

Regardless of having the service manual, I'm still going to ask questions - the manual doesn't come with confidence!

Thanks

Murray

Thanks
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3208
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-26 20:18 ]
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Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you. Good info.

I can do the mechanical work but I misinterpret how mechanisms work, so left to my own devices I would take all the wrong stuff off first!

I may as well toss one more question into the ring since you are giving me valuable help!

There is a little lever that selects the 'other half' of the shutter speeds that don't work. (i.e., 30, 125, 500 vs. 60,250...). I would call that a shutter retard lever, after seeing a manual for a large aerial lens shutter.

Do you know how this lever works and how complex it is, common problem, easy or totally up the creek and be happy with 50%?

I will review the printed manual I have but I thought this was one of the things that was too fuzzy for me.

Thanks again:

Murray
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3208
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-26 20:18 ]
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Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 2:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hinged section actually IS bent on one of my yokes. The thick base is flat on both. Machinist at work looked at it told me it wasn't bent )I'll show him how only the long section fits the guide and binds at the back.

Thanks for all the help.

Murray
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Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2004 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The focus yoke repair is moving along nicely. I flattened the overall bow with a manual press (Dake, can't remember the exact name for such a tool)...maybe it's an arbor press.

There was still some bow in the side guides. I supported the bottom edge with 0.010" spring steel shim stock and then held a steel block on the wavy part of the guide edge & whacked it a couple times with a plastic mallet. The long guide rail will slide all the way to the end of the hinged yoke now, but binds a tiny bit. A little more work or maybe some smooth wet/dry SiC paper and I think I'll be ready to go.

Thanks to Glen in WY for having a replacement guide rail.

Looks like the CG rangefinder is missing too many parts. (And the SG is missing the whole rangefinder!).

Thanks for the support.

Murray
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Murray@uptowngallery.org



Joined: 03 Apr 2002
Posts: 164
Location: Holland MI

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2004 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More honing the yoke rear section with a wetstone wrapped in 600 grit wet/dry SiC paper and it's good to go. Getting holes drilled & counter-bored in new rear case guides.

I need some moral support on the SG FP shutter. I hated to mess with it since half the speeds worked, but the service manual helped. I only pulled the curtain away far enough to remove the screws to remove the bellows hardware and flash contacts. The old bellows was dirty and other than an entire edge repaired with green fabric tape it actually looks like it has life (it ain't dead yet).

The governor was fine...I think it's more dirt than a weak spring. It doesn't slide down when the governor is moved to the position where it should drop.

The curtain rolls a bit funny now and seems looser. I am very reluctant to mess with it -I can just imagine a spring flying out and bearings and who knows what else.

How hard is the shutter to work on, say compared to A) What it took to get the bellows out or B) A leaf shutter?

A) was easy. B) most people have no business attempting.

Thank you

Murray
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3208
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2004 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-26 20:19 ]
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