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MY GVII (CONTINUES)

 
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rchouser



Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Posts: 16
Location: northern virginia

PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2003 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First, thanks to 45PSS, RichS, and bertsaunders for your responses. More info: the broken end is all the way down inside of the edge of the standard. I messed with it for about an hour just trying to back it out with a needle and magnifying glass. I can now put the "good" screw 4 full turns on the broken side (the broken piece is "way down"). I don't have any explanation for this because I don't have 4 turns of threads left on the broken piece (head). I must have managed to "walk it in instead of out". I have tried to move it out, but it's not going to happen by needle. Do these lens board retaining clip screws go all the way through the "standard" to hold the bellows in place? Do I want to disassemble the front standard (RichS makes this choice sound "not good"). Is it time to call SKGrimes. I am tempted to get a "new screw" and just cut it back to 4 turns and see what happens. Will another front plate (like from a GVI interchange into the GVII front standard? (Back to RichS warning on front standard disassembly. Opinions are wanted, decisions will be my responsibility, so "no pressure". thanks
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AWT



Joined: 05 Sep 2002
Posts: 57
Location: Upstate SC

PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2003 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had those "Oh, $%&#!!!" moments myself and can "feel your pain."

To add to RichS' comment about using a Dremel: If you don't have one, get one. They are invaluable for so many projects.

If you have one, ask your dentist for some of their old bits (or ask them to start saving a few for you). My dentist gave me a bunch of bits that were too dull for his use but were perfect for my needs. They come in various sizes and shapes. The high-speed variety will cut through just about anything (bone, metal crowns, titanium bridge-work, you get the idea.) You'll need to get a smaller collet for your Dremel than what comes standard, but they're available and cheap.

Select one of the teensy drill bits (called "burs") and carefully eat away at the recessed stump. Use a can of compressed air to clear the "cavity" while you're working. Eventually, you'll be able to remove the screw's remains in pieces.
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2003 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2003-03-28 03:20, rchouser wrote:
First, thanks to 45PSS, RichS, and bertsaunders for your responses. More info: the broken end is all the way down inside of the edge of the standard. I messed with it for about an hour just trying to back it out with a needle and magnifying glass. I can now put the "good" screw 4 full turns on the broken side (the broken piece is "way down"). I don't have any explanation for this because I don't have 4 turns of threads left on the broken piece (head). I must have managed to "walk it in instead of out". I have tried to move it out, but it's not going to happen by needle. Do these lens board retaining clip screws go all the way through the "standard" to hold the bellows in place? Do I want to disassemble the front standard (RichS makes this choice sound "not good"). Is it time to call SKGrimes. I am tempted to get a "new screw" and just cut it back to 4 turns and see what happens. Will another front plate (like from a GVI interchange into the GVII front standard? (Back to RichS warning on front standard disassembly. Opinions are wanted, decisions will be my responsibility, so "no pressure". thanks

I checked the repair manual. It was no real help. They don't give the size of screws. And from the picture of the front standard, it looks like the hole goes all the way through, but I wouldn't count on it. Apparently the 12 screws that hold the front of the bellows screw in from the rear, inside the bellows into the standard. So that might be the holes shown in the picture?
On the bright side, if you have 4 good threads, that's all you need for a solid mount. It only takes 3! If you can find a screw of the proper size, I would just cut it down to length and fit it in. Since there may be a worry about thread integrity, and you wouldn't want to over-tighten it, a bit of Locktite on the threads would prevent it from coming loose. At least it's not a screw that needs much force and really doesn't hold much.
So if it was mine, I think I would go the easy route and cut down a new screw with a dab of Locktite. Should be a permanent fix and no chance of damaging anything else...

By the way, I like that idea of getting burrs from a dentist! Never thought of that!
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bertsaunders



Joined: 20 May 2001
Posts: 577
Location: Bakersfield California

PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2003 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THAT SCREW IS A 5/16" #3 RH SCREW >I THINK< SAME AS ON THE BACK SLIDERS! NOT TO BIG A DEAL TO REMOVE THE BELLOWS TO GET AT THE BROKEN SCREW, DONT REMOVE ALL OF THE SCREWS JUST BACK MOST OF THEM OUT FAR ENOUGH TO GET AT THE BROKEN SCREW......THESE ARE INSIDE THE BELLOWS! NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS PROBABLY WILL GRASP THE SCREW FROM THE BACK SIDE AT THIS POINT! THE SCREW HOLES DO GO THRU THE BACKPLATE, AND ARE DEFINATELY SEPERATE FROM THE BELLOWS RETAINING SCREWS! BY GOING >IN FARTHER< WITH THAT STUB, YOU ARE PROBABLY FORCING THE EDGE OF THE BELLOWS TO PUCKER AT THAT POINT, AND YOU MAY CREATE A LIGHT LEAK IF YOU LEAVE IT IN PLACE! BE CAREFULL WITH THE SCREWDRIVER INSIDE THE BELLOWS, DO NOT PUSH SO HARD ON THE SCREW HEAD, THAT YOU SLIP OFF AND POKE A HOLE! I USUALLY STABILIZE THE SCREWDRIVER THRU THE FRONT OF THE BELLOWS, WHILE WORKING FROM THE BACK! BERT

[ This Message was edited by: bertsaunders on 2003-03-28 14:17 ]

[ This Message was edited by: bertsaunders on 2003-03-28 14:18 ]
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