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Stiff focusing on Speed Graphic (Thread moved here)

 
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Discpad



Joined: 25 Jan 2003
Posts: 80
Location: Sayreville, New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2003 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Moved & separated from another thread]

Second, the focusing wheels are very stiff, even with the locking lever loose. It's so stiff, in fact, that I got blisters on my thumbs while aligning the rangefinder (which I learned how to do on this site). How do I lubricate the focusing assembly?



Quote:

On 2003-01-25 17:41, jdman wrote:
Concerning the stiff focus, the tracks and gears are probably all gunked up with congealed grease and dirt. If you will take the rails off, clean everthing esp. the track and reassemble that should fix your problem. This job is not rocket science, just take your time and do not loose the screws. I put a little lubriplate reel grease in the part of the rails where the tracks run. Another possibility is a bent rack or rail from the camera being dropped, but more than likely a cleaning will do the job. Russ


Quote:

On 2003-01-25 22:38, 45PSS wrote:
Another possibility is the focus lock set screw is too tight. It is in the center of the focus lock post.
Charles


OK, the focus lock set screw is loose; so it looks like I need to disassemble the track and rail assembly under my magnifying light.

  • Are there any "Gotcha's" when disassembling or assembling? the track?

  • Are there any assembly diagrams online?


  • Thanks!
    Dan Schwartz



    [ This Message was edited by: Discpad on 2003-01-26 10:30 ]
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    Les



    Joined: 09 May 2001
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    Location: Detroit, MI

    PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2003 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    There is probably a leaf spring under or around the shaft but it should go sproing, Just use a good quality screwdriver that fits well to keep from bunging up the screw heads. Use a toothbrush and a degreaser (anything from dish detergent to naptha will work) Then reapply some grease (lith greas works, so does Moly or graphite. In a pinch I used Vaseline and in one desperate measure I used Desitin Ointment!
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    larrys



    Joined: 30 Dec 2002
    Posts: 42
    Location: SW Ohio

    PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2003 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Greetings, Mr. Brakeandgo! You might wanna check out http://hmartin.mysitespace.com/graflexindex.html for some very useful docs. And you've obviously already found the motherlode of experience and good advice
    enjoy,
    -ls-
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    Discpad



    Joined: 25 Jan 2003
    Posts: 80
    Location: Sayreville, New Jersey

    PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2003 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Found the problem:

    It appears that the reason this 1956 Speed Graphic had such a stiff focus knob torque is that it appeared, when I took the bed blocks out, that the camera had been dropped in the river! There was a light covering of dirt on the underside; and a complete disassembly, cleaning with mineral spirits and lubrication with WD-40 fixed the problem nicely.

    [And Yes, I was with BrakeAndGo... But no longer.]
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    [ This Message was edited by: Discpad on 2003-01-26 13:04 ]
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    45PSS



    Joined: 28 Sep 2001
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    Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

    PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2003 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Weak Diluted lubericant subsitute requiring 40 applications per equipement useage. Suggest you buy a 5 gallon can if you plan on using the camera much.

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    Discpad



    Joined: 25 Jan 2003
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    Location: Sayreville, New Jersey

    PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2003 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


    Yes, you're 100% correct about WD-40 being a very thin lubricant, diluted with solvent. However, it has the property I like for slow moving parts: It doesn't attract dirt or dust.

    Just ask the folks on the Alaska Air flight that went down in Monterrey Bay: Improper lubrication on the Acme threaded jackscrew controlling the elevator caused the runner nut to strip.

    All my Speed Graphic needs now is some black shoe polish and the camera will be as nice as new. And if I can find a bi-pin to female hot shoe cable for my SB26 clone flash I'll be as happy as a clam at high tide.

    Quote:

    On 2003-01-26 22:03, 45PSS wrote:
    Weak Diluted lubericant subsitute requiring 40 applications per equipement useage. Suggest you buy a 5 gallon can if you plan on using the camera much.


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    Les



    Joined: 09 May 2001
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    PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2003 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    From all of the reps and the VPs I've talked to dealing with WD-40, WD stands for Water Displacement. They don't consider it a lubricant, nor does ANSI.

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    Discpad



    Joined: 25 Jan 2003
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    PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2003 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    Quote:

    On 2003-01-27 06:04, Les wrote:
    From all of the reps and the VPs I've talked to dealing with WD-40, WD stands for Water Displacement. They don't consider it a lubricant, nor does ANSI.


    In my experience WD-40 is not suitable as a lubricant for metal-to-metal parts moving at a high speed, i.e. ball bearings. It is good for gleaning out the grease & dirt from a bearing while running, as long as you immediately squirt some grease back in to displace the WD-40.

    For something like a camera slide with very slow movement, it's more important to keep it dust, dirt & grit free than it is to keep it “lubricated:” The very light oil in WD-40 is plenty good for this duty, with a bonus of retarding corrosion, which contributes to friction.

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    Roger Thoms



    Joined: 25 Nov 2009
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    Location: San Francisco, CA USA

    PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

    45PSS wrote:
    <font>W</font>eak <font>D</font>iluted lubericant subsitute requiring <font>40</font> applications per equipement useage. Suggest you buy a 5 gallon can if you plan on using the camera much.


    Sorry to dig up such an old post but that's hillarious.

    Roger
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