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[Daryl J]

I have a Century Graphic with a Century shutter that is running a bit slow. The shutter face plate appears to be held in place by two screws. Can the face plate be removed to gain access to the escapement by removing these screws without anything flying out? I recently cleaned and lubricated an older Compur shutter that came apart in a similar manner.

Naturally, the lens elements will to be removed first.

[45PSS]

I'm not familr with the Century but after cleaning sever versions of other Graphic shutters is should go as the others you've done. Things won't go flying until you go one or two steps beyond removing the top cover or trying to operate it with the cover off.

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[clnfrd]

Hi. I have two Century shutter which I have cleaned by removing the front and rear lens elements, of course...removing the two screws and front plate as you have mentioned...noting the shutter speed setting so you can re-install as removed...then soaking the shutter assembly in a small baggie half-full of Ronsonol lighter fluid. I remove occasionally and operate aperture through its range. Total soaking time a couple of hours. I replace the front plate...fire the shutter a few times while wet...remove the plate and soak for another hour. Remove and let dry thoroughly before replacing plate. I have added no lube in my projects and have had excellent results. Fred.

[Henry]

Two points:
1) remove the front and rear lens elements (unscrew them CCW) before you soak with the Ronsonol;
2) you may not have to remove the faceplate, thereby saving yourself a bit of trouble. With the lens elements removed, just squirt the Ronsonol into the interior of the shutter, both front and back, and work all controls several times. Cock and run the shutter through all speeds, toggle the f-stop lever back and forth, engage the press focus lever, fire the shutter through the cable socket, etc. This should reactivate the original lubricant and redistribute it where it's needed. I have also had success with mixing dry powdered graphite and Ronsonol, and squirting this mixture into my Graphex shutters.

[Daryl J]

Thanks to all for the help. Since I didn't intend to remove the shutter from the lens board, I think I'll start with the more conservative approach Henry recommends before going to the "full soak" treatment.

Henry, please see you private messages.

[clnfrd]

For what its' worth, the methods I've used with success were the result of all the help I've received on this site. I didn't like the results of mixing graphite with the lighter fluid. Flecks of Graphite would remain after the fluid dried, which could get airborne and wind up on the lens elements after several firings of the shutter. Where lube was needed, I liked the results of Tri-flow with Teflon applied sparingly with the tip of a toothpick...and I found that complete immersion of the shutter with lens elements and front plate removed was much more effective than squirting the fluid into the works. I do not remove the shutter from the lens board. I've used this approach with no failures on Kodak and Wollensak shutters...six total and counting. Removing the front plate of the Kodak Shutters should be done with great care, with the front of the assembly kept pointing up at all times, leaving the speed-adjustment ring in place. Rather than the "baggie half-full of Ronsonol" approach, which I've used with self-cocking Century and Alphax Shutters made by Wollensak, I use a small container with the Kodaks, so that I can keep them upright so parts won't fall out. Fred.

[Daryl J]

Fred, I tried the graphite/fluid mix only once and had the same trouble with particles getting on the elements. Never again. I was somewhat concerned that prolonged soaking might damage the paint on the lensboard and/or shutter. Apparently you haven't had any difficulty.

It's entirely possible the shutter speeds aren't going to change much after cleaning. I have two Century shutters and one Alphax shutter. None have been cleaned but they all time about the same. The slow speeds are very close but the higher speeds measure slow. I use a Calumet tester. I'm wondering if the design of self cocking shutter may lead to false readings when using the Calumet tester, since it starts counting as soon as the blades open ever so slightly. If the opening/closing time is long in these shutters, a light integrating type tester would give more realistic results.

Have you ever timed your Century/Alphax shutters before and after cleaning?

[clnfrd]

No, I don't use anything more sophisticated than a calibrated ear. I can't say with conviction that these shutter speeds are 100% accurate fresh out of the box. I assume that if everything is clean and operating with no drag, it's very close...and within the original tolerances of the manufacturer.Fred.

[Mickey]

My Graphex shutter recently froze on me. After searching the forum and reading a few posts I came upon this one. I removed the glass elements and squirted some Ronsonol on both sides of the shutter blades and arpeture blades. I fired the shutter at all speeds and after about an hour everything seemed fairly accurate. This morning after letting it sit for about 6 hours, the shutter speeds 25 and up still seem fine. Shutter speeds 10 and below now do not close the blades. Last night you could hear the timer winding down then it would snap but this morning I don't hear that. Any suggestions? I'll try the some procedure again. Should I just remove the top cover and soak in a bag of Ronsonol?

[clnfrd]

First of all, let me stress that I am NOT a lens technician...and my methods are the result of info gleaned from this forum. That having been said...I have a Graphex shutter and the complete immersion in Ronsonol cured my problems..and I did not add any lubricant. Fred.P.S. Lens elements and front cover removed, of course.

[ This Message was edited by: clnfrd on 2002-11-14 06:13 ]

[Henry]

Go to the hardware store and buy a tube of powdered graphite, the kind sold as lock lubricant. This should be a *very* fine powder, almost like talc. Put a couple of squirts into a pinpoint oiler, available at hobby shops, and follow with a generous dollop of Ronsonol---the proportions are not critical. Shake the mixture often, as the graphite wants to settle out of solution. Squirt this mixture into the front and back of the shutter, elements removed. Exercise all shutter functions several times. I've done this to at least three Graphex shutters and never, ever had any problems whatsoever with graphite "flakes"---if you can see any flakes, then the graphite isn't fine enough to start with. If your balky shutter problem is caused by lack of lubricant, this should fix it.

[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2002-11-14 07:08 ]

[clnfrd]

Henry...that's the problem I've had with graphite...flakes remaining that constantly get air-born and migrate to the lens elements. Is there a "finer" grade available? I bought mine at Lowe's...simply labeled "lock lubricant". Thanks. Fred.

[Henry]

Fred,

The stuff I use is called "Mr. Zip Extra Fine Graphite," and comes in a blue plastic squeeze tube about 4 inches long by 3/4 inch wide, from A.G.S.Co., Muskegon, Michigan 49443. I bought it quite a while ago, not originally for shutters but just to have in the tool box. Don't even know if it's still available, or if the company is still in business. Your best bet would likely be your friendly neighborhood locally owned family-type hardware store, as opposed to Lowe's or that other one. You may have to hunt around and try several different kinds to get one that's suitably fine. By the way, it specifically says "Lubricates precision instruments, locks, hinges, tools, guns, fishing reels, camera shutters[!], bicycles, office machines, toys, steam locomotives, etc." (OK, just kidding about the steam locomotives).

[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2002-11-14 18:22 ]

[45PSS]

I/we carry Mr. Zip extra fine graphite at Orchard Supply Hardware (California only)/Sears Hardware elsewhere (not Sears department or catalogue stores). It comes in a 3/4oz. tube. Just borrow Dr. Watsons big magnifying glass and look for a 4 x 6 carded tube.
If you stumble across Tri Flow or simular lubericant with Teflon it works well also if applied correctly.
Charles

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[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2002-11-14 22:31 ]

[clnfrd]

Thanks, guys. Will try to find the fine graphite. I have the tri-flow, which I have used very sparingly on a Flash Supermatic with success, at wear-points in the shutter mechanism...not on blades or aperture leaves...I believe you recommended it before, Charles. Fred