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Tilt-A-Mite
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Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2002 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

right up there with "don't eat yellow snow" is

Never put three 5B bulbs in your pocket while wearing polyester double-knit slacks in a dry environment. Ruined a perfectly good leisure suit, but really lit up the party!
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alecj



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 853
Location: Alabama

PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2002 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2002-08-12 10:54, Les wrote:
Yep all that is the gospel. but then we find shutters that have a RED M and a Black M. There has to be a difference.



Yes, Les, there is a slight difference in delay between the two "Ms". The red setting introduces a shorter delay, 9-10ms, while the black M delay provides more [Fred Lustig set mine for 19 ms].

But, never fear, Graflex made it easy. They say: "Use the Red M with the slower red shutter speeds, and the Black M with the faster black speeds".

That should clear that up, right?
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kphill



Joined: 31 May 2002
Posts: 3
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2003 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question about the Honeywell Tilt-A-Mite flash. I recently found a few of them in a box of old photographic equipment and thought I'd try them out. I found a replacement battery through Radio Shack's online store. A unit appeared to work. The problem was that it would often discharge prematurely when I tried to insert a bulb (either M-2/3 or the bayonet based #5 or 25). I thought the capacitor might be bad so I tried using a Radio Shack part number 272-1020 (2200mF Electrolytic Capacitor). This fits the case just fine if you wrape the leads into little springs on the ends. It will charge and flash just fine but I am still having trouble with the unit flashing the bulb prematurely (I've learned to hold the bulb with a towel or something thick enough to protect my fingers from the heat!). I also have trouble getting M-2/3 bulbs to stay seated; they don't want to click into place. I've tried exchanging the battery and capacitor between different units and it still does the same thing. I thought it might be static so I tried touching the bulb to the fan before inserting it. Sometimes it works; many times it doesn't. Anyone have any ideas on this? I know this may not be the right place to ask this question but I can't find any other forum that might have information about these units.

You may e-mail me directly if you want.

Many thanks,
Kevin Phillips
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1443
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2003 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Les, Les...you ruined a polyester leisure suit??? Sounds like simple justice to me.

We may be old geezers with our old cameras but we don't have to wear authentic period clothing when we shoot---do we??

Say it ain't so! I just hate shopping in the thrift store outlet.
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clnfrd



Joined: 26 Mar 2002
Posts: 616
Location: Western Kentucky Lakes Area

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2003 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kp...some old flash units with sync cords attached have insulation in the sync cords that is shot. So, if the cord is flexed just so, the conductors touch and fire the bulb. You need to get a test lamp to insert in place of the flash bulb and flex the cord to see if you can make the test lamp illuminate. If necessary, replace the cord. Fred.
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worldphoto



Joined: 05 Feb 2003
Posts: 199
Location: Southern California

PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2003 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Kevin
I don't have any words of wisdom, although, if you do find out the shorting flash problem will you please post it here?
I have a Heiland Tilt-a-mite and it is working, no problems. Mine does have a switch on top of the unit to switch between the bayonet base and the M2 base. Could that switch be shorted and also cause your M@ base connection problem?
Harry
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