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super speed graphic sync cords
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sobahguy



Joined: 09 Oct 2001
Posts: 171
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi...
Awaiting a new (to me) SSG and will be needing to get sync cords for it.
I have seen the Y-cord for the camera..2 households (shutter & remote outlets) to the 3-pin male plug for the outlet on the right side of the camera body. I have also seen single (not Y) household plug to the 3-pin male plug made for the camera.
Can anyone who has a Super explain what each cord is for and the differences between the two? Can I still use the 2773 tube to trip the shutter & fire the flash with each or both of these cords?
Hope this doesn't sound too stupid, i'm waiting for an upcoming swap to get the manual. I'm also rolling pennies to have Paramount make a cord for me to use my Sunpak stobe with this camera; for the moment i have a stash of bulbs to test with.
Any help or suggestions is appreciated.
Thanks.
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Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well my SSG came two days ago and I haven't had a chance to really play with it. But I think the way this worked was.....


The Y cord allowed you to fire the rig from the flash gun, but used the sync circuit in the shutter to time the bulb and the lens.

I thought the single cord acted like any cord on an Anny with an unsynced shutter, but the more I thing about it, the more I wonder if it acted more like a sync cord on a modern 35mm--from lens to flash----and you tripped the shutter from the red button on the handle side of the camera.

The more I think, the more confused I get! I'm gonna stop now before I hurt someone.

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sobahguy



Joined: 09 Oct 2001
Posts: 171
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can definitely identify with states of confusion!!!
I'm sure the manual (when i get it) will likely spoon-feed this info but until then i will experiment, without breaking anything (i hope). The electronics are all functional on this camera so it will be a bit before I get used to how the electronic shutter release/flash sync all work in harmony with each other. Ahhhhh........i'm another beginner obsessing about a new toy he doesn't even have his mitts on until the weekend......................................
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alecj



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 853
Location: Alabama

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll give it a try. The "Y" cord goes from the camera body outlet to the two respective plugs on the 2773 and provides all the functions through the trigger button on the battery case. The other cord is interesting. I believe those SSG lensboards could be unpluged from the camera, leaving the 3 pin connection on the front of the board, with a solenoid still attached on the back, into which your other cord would plug.

Here's a related question. Has anybody ever seen a Graflite 45 flash, the special flash made just for the Super? It had a built in cord, stored in the lower part of the battery case, with the 3 pin connection. It also had a capacitor inside the top of the tube. I suppose those are all useless now that the capacitors have died, but they sure look neat. Black battery tube with "Graflite 45" on the front. It's pictured on the dust cover of the 11th GG Photo.

[ This Message was edited by: alecj on 2003-02-28 09:05 ]
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Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

all of my dust covers.....bit the dust. I know they made a dummy tube, but this sounds like a blending of a BC cartridge and a dummy tube.

Interesting...

here's the burb from inside the 11th ed of GGP
"This unit was developed solely for use with the Super Gaphic. It i fitted with a micro-action release switch, accepts Graflite 5-inch reflectors and has three outlest for the standard household type plugs. It also accepts the Graflite heavy-duty mounting brackets. ...

The bottom of the tube is open. A 3-wire expansion-type cord is permanently attach inside the tube, at the top, and the other end is fitted with the special three-prong plug for the outlet on the side of th eSuper Graphic..... When the cord is splugged into the camera, the batteries inside the camera charge a small capcitor inside the top of the tube. Pressing the release switch causes the shutter to be tripped from the capacitors in the camera, and the contact in the shutter closes the circuit to the flashlamp, which is fired by the energy from the capacitor in the tube."

No photo shown.

Les


[ This Message was edited by: Les on 2003-02-28 10:20 ]
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3230
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming you have noticed that the body connector is polorized (plug only fits one way) the center and the front (standard side of camera) contacts form the selonid trip circuit and pressing the camera body switch with a remote battery pack connected will SHORT the remote battery. The center contact should recieve the positive side of the remote battery.
The center and rear (camera back) contact provide the flash trigger IF a shutter on an electronic coupled lens board is installed in the camera (1/1000 shutter, others?) Shutter's flash contacts has to connect to insulated straps on lens board that have mating contacts with standard, signal is transfered thru bellows to plug. (Looking at standard, lop left lens board contact goes to rear plug contact; right lens board contact goes to center plug contact)

With an ohm meter and a Y cord, center lead should read continuity to a prong on each branch; the branch that shows continuity with the front pin will be the remote selonid trip. The selonid is the one that is perminately mounted on the front plate of the bellows (the black palstic just benind the brushed aluminum face on the front standard)

Charles


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[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2003-02-28 23:01 ]
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3230
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alecj,
In my pricey collection of Graflex manuals is "Graflite Flash Equipement" dated March 1965; Graflex/General Precision. No mention of a Graflite 45; all other 2 and 3 cell varriations and refelctors are covered.
If you would like to replace the capicators in any of your equipement:
De solder old capicator observing any poliraty markings on capicator and note orientation of + and -. Cutting the leads of the old one and making one longer than the other will also work.
Somewhere on the side will be something of the order 45mfd 50vdc. (example)
This reads capitance in micro farads followed by the maximum voltage in Volts DC. I can't read the pair in one of my supers completely, but it is marked in working volts WV, same as VDC for pratical purposes.
Capitance is not critical. If a 45mfd is installed a 40 would not preform as well but would be hard to detect, a 50 would be fine but a 75 or 100 might be too much. If the circuit calls for a 80vdc a 79vdc could not be used but a 81 can. Never go under the specified voltage.
If a capicator has polarity markings it is an electrolytic and must be replaced with same type. A non electrolytic cannot be used.
More modern materials have resulted in smaller physical size which is irrelevant
Charles

The schemadic in the repair text list the specs for the capicators for the super speed as 2,80MFD 50WVDC and they are electrolytic,aluminum axial lead.

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While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.



[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2003-03-04 13:43 ]
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alecj



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 853
Location: Alabama

PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be happy to send somebody a jpeg of that Graflite 45 to post on here. I don't have a web page to post it myself. Send me your email address by private mail.
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Les



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI

PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send it to LNPhoto@twmi.rr.com

I'll put it up here.




[ This Message was edited by: Les on 2003-03-04 22:13 ]

[ This Message was edited by: Les on 2003-03-04 22:14 ]

[ This Message was edited by: Les on 2003-03-10 20:59 ]
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sobahguy



Joined: 09 Oct 2001
Posts: 171
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2003 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Charles, I've sent you a PVT MSG.
Thanks,SG
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3230
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2003 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only place on line that I have found an Instructiom Manual for the Super Speed is http://www.craigcamera.com/; factory origional "lot of bucks", reprint "several bucks".

Next I pulled my Black Mounting Brackets 2272 and factory "Y" cord out and started testing with an ohm meter. Didn't learn anything other than flase indication are possible as shutter lead is capacitive coupled to prevent feedback to shutter. I put a pair of batteries into the 2272 and started checking voltages. Depending on the 2272 (2273) switch settings determines whether the camera switch triggers the flash, the lens sync contacts trigger, and posibally the flash switch triggers the camera selonid. If you want to trigger a strobe or bulbs from the shutter using the camera wiring, a single cable from the center and rear contacts to the flash with the lens mounted on a electrical contact board with the shutter sync contacts connected is what's needed. If firing the shutter from a remote battery/switch use the center and front contacts and mount the lens on a board that has the mechinal link to the cameras selonid. To do both, get the "Y" cord, and play with the switch settings using test lamps in the sockets, or spend the bucks for the instruction manual of your choice. I think one would be able to figure out what they need to know with the previously referenced "Graflite" manual and the cord of their choice. At any rate the ONLY way any of the cameras circuity will function is to have the board with mechanical link to the built in selonid and or the elecrtical contacts that adapt to the lens you choose. The 1/1000 shutter is on such a board (135mm, 270mm) are their others or just the board?

I have edited my previous responce about the capicatiors to indicate the size and type used in the super speed. It was in the text not in the parts list. The diode is JEDEC No. 1N2483.
Charles

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[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2003-03-04 13:47 ]
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sobahguy



Joined: 09 Oct 2001
Posts: 171
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2003 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THANKS for the help, Charles !!!
It clarified things for me. I did just get a y-cord for it and there seems to be good current at each of the 3 molded plug contacts when the households are made up to the shutter/remote outlets on the 2773 battery case w/three cells in it.
The important thing to remember is not to use the camera red button electronic shutter release when y-cord from the flash gun is connected to the body plug (so as to avoid shorting anything out) Does this sound correct? I do have Graflite manual so all i need now is to roll more pennies for the camera manual LOL.
Thanks again, best regards!!!
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sobahguy



Joined: 09 Oct 2001
Posts: 171
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2003 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
To follow-up....
Checked the voltage on the y-cord; 4.5 volts on each pin of the plug which goes into the camera body. Is this correct? Should the center pin contact have current? isn't it a ground for the forward & rear pins, or does it not matter? Forgive my lack of electrical know-how.......
Thanks again.
SG
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alecj



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 853
Location: Alabama

PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2003 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You just said: "The important thing to remember is not to use the camera red button electronic shutter release when y-cord from the flash gun is connected to the body plug (so as to avoid shorting anything out) Does this sound correct?"

No, it doesn't sound correct. The camera/flash combination was designed so that you can release the shutter using either the camera microswitch, or the switch on the battery case. What do you think you'll short out?
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3230
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2003 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alecj, if you have an opreational system and know how it works why don't you enlightem us? It appears, depending on switch settings, one could short a battery.
It is also possible that the camera switch, shutter contact, and remote contact are a either-or-or with either of two battery sources to trip the shutter and fire the bulb IF everything is connected correctly
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While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2003-03-04 22:43 ]
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